Corvette mechanic in Abu Dhabi
#1
Corvette mechanic in Abu Dhabi
Hi guys,
I just got myself a 2001 C5 convertible. Unfortunately only after purchasing it did I find out that the cost of fixing it is gonna be 3 times what I paid for it. Well I really do love this car so after using up most of my budget fixing some of the repairs at the authorized dealer here in Abu Dhabi I've decided to think of an alternative solution. I travel to the states quite a bit on business thus I was thinking of sourcing for the parts myself and getting someone to fix it for me over here. So I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any good and reliable recommendations for a corvette mechanic here in Abu Dhabi. Cheers.
I just got myself a 2001 C5 convertible. Unfortunately only after purchasing it did I find out that the cost of fixing it is gonna be 3 times what I paid for it. Well I really do love this car so after using up most of my budget fixing some of the repairs at the authorized dealer here in Abu Dhabi I've decided to think of an alternative solution. I travel to the states quite a bit on business thus I was thinking of sourcing for the parts myself and getting someone to fix it for me over here. So I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any good and reliable recommendations for a corvette mechanic here in Abu Dhabi. Cheers.
#4
Safety Car
Have you tried posting in the regional section? Sorry, from I understand, fixing any car is going to spendy over there. My buddy has some horror stories on that subject. Getting parts into the country could be spendy also?
#5
Yup, I've done most of the major mechanical repairs except for the traction control. The quote given to me to fix that alone was 22k. So I've put that on hold for awhile. It just needs some electrical work, like auto locks, auto seats, the headlights and a few other stuff that seem to work intermittently. Well I thought I'll just do abit every few months until I get her back to the beauty she was meant to be. It's just that the only place that I can get this stuff done is at the authorized dealer GM, and the labour cost is normally 50% of the bill.
#6
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
ANDRE
STOP USING THE "STEALERSHIP"!!!!!
Here is my recommendations:
1. GET A SET OF GM Service Manuals! Learn how to use them! Read every chapter and get familiar with the manuals. Once you figure out how they are laid out and how to use the INDEX to find stuff, it gets a LOT easier from there.
2. If you make a post with 20 different problems listed, chances of getting all of them solved are much less. Pick one or two issues that you have determined that are at the front of the list to get fixed.
List all the symptoms, all of the DTCs that you have (See directions on reading codes at bottom of this post)
Acquire ALL the tools and stuff that you need to FIX YOUR CAR! You really don’t need all that many SPECIAL tools and the tools that you purchase will go a LONG WAY towards saving you money on repairs.
Mandatory Tools to acquire: AC/DC/OHM/ AMP meter, Torque wrench (0-150 ft/lbs), Metric wrenches & Sockets, Small set of TORX bits screwdrivers and TORX sockets.
Jack, & Jack stands. Race Ramps if you desire ramps.
I 100% agree on looking in the C5 Events and Regional section so you can find a local shop OR people in your area that have experience with C5 and or C6 (both are pretty much similar for the most part on mechanical stuff
Heres a post for you from that section!!!!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/othe...-club-scc.html
Give it a look and see if there are any events or gatherings near you!
I feel for you being in another country but,,,,,,, if you gather up tools, get knowledgeable and rely on the forum for repair guidance, you will be a hell of a lot happier and a whole lot LESS CAR POOR!
Bill
STOP USING THE "STEALERSHIP"!!!!!
Here is my recommendations:
1. GET A SET OF GM Service Manuals! Learn how to use them! Read every chapter and get familiar with the manuals. Once you figure out how they are laid out and how to use the INDEX to find stuff, it gets a LOT easier from there.
2. If you make a post with 20 different problems listed, chances of getting all of them solved are much less. Pick one or two issues that you have determined that are at the front of the list to get fixed.
List all the symptoms, all of the DTCs that you have (See directions on reading codes at bottom of this post)
Acquire ALL the tools and stuff that you need to FIX YOUR CAR! You really don’t need all that many SPECIAL tools and the tools that you purchase will go a LONG WAY towards saving you money on repairs.
Mandatory Tools to acquire: AC/DC/OHM/ AMP meter, Torque wrench (0-150 ft/lbs), Metric wrenches & Sockets, Small set of TORX bits screwdrivers and TORX sockets.
Jack, & Jack stands. Race Ramps if you desire ramps.
I 100% agree on looking in the C5 Events and Regional section so you can find a local shop OR people in your area that have experience with C5 and or C6 (both are pretty much similar for the most part on mechanical stuff
Heres a post for you from that section!!!!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/othe...-club-scc.html
Give it a look and see if there are any events or gatherings near you!
I feel for you being in another country but,,,,,,, if you gather up tools, get knowledgeable and rely on the forum for repair guidance, you will be a hell of a lot happier and a whole lot LESS CAR POOR!
Bill
#7
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Here are directions for you to pull up and read and clear your OWN DTCs from the front seat!
READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.
Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.
Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........
Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.
READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.
Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.
Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........
Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.
#8
Hi Bill, thanks for the advice. I've decided to give it a try and DIY some of the repairs.. I looked up the the DSC and so far there are 3 codes
28-TCS C1214 H C
28-TCS C1287 H C
A6-SCM B2177 H C
A6-SCM B2172 H C
This are the only codes shown. Like you said invest in some tools and books, thanks.
28-TCS C1214 H C
28-TCS C1287 H C
A6-SCM B2177 H C
A6-SCM B2172 H C
This are the only codes shown. Like you said invest in some tools and books, thanks.
#9
Tech Contributor
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND
B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND
Do some searches on the Forum, and internet for the above codes.
You might get lucky and someone has a quick fix for them.
I have many of the codes on my web site at the bottom...
www.ToqueZ06.com
(see section --> C5 Diagnostic codes, and how to read them)
Good luck !
Toque
C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND
B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND
Do some searches on the Forum, and internet for the above codes.
You might get lucky and someone has a quick fix for them.
I have many of the codes on my web site at the bottom...
www.ToqueZ06.com
(see section --> C5 Diagnostic codes, and how to read them)
Good luck !
Toque
#12
Tech Contributor
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND
B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND
Do some searches on the Forum, and internet for the above codes.
You might get lucky and someone has a quick fix for them.
I have many of the codes on my web site at the bottom...
www.ToqueZ06.com
(see section --> C5 Diagnostic codes, and how to read them)
Good luck !
Toque
C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND
B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND
Do some searches on the Forum, and internet for the above codes.
You might get lucky and someone has a quick fix for them.
I have many of the codes on my web site at the bottom...
www.ToqueZ06.com
(see section --> C5 Diagnostic codes, and how to read them)
Good luck !
Toque
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...mittently.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ode-c1214.html
C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-persists.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-s...ode-c1287.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...and-c1288.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...on-sensor.html
B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...any-ideas.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-scm-help.html
B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ode-b2172.html
Toque
#14
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Oceanside California
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
If it has that many issues... and is that expensive to work on... buy a good working C5 for 13,000 - 15,000 over here and ship it. 22,000 to fix traction control? You can buy another C5 for cheaper.
#15
Team Owner
The 1214 is most likely the ABS module. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can probably fix it yourself. I think there is a thread describing how to fix it. You basically need to replace some relays that have gone bad. There are a few people on Ebay that will fix it for a fee. Absfixer.com fixed mine and the repaired unit outlasted the original unit. All you do is remove the unit and send it off to them for repair. The unit is easy to take out and just requires a Torx head screwdriver and about 20minutes depending on how skinny your arms are.
The 1287 is a steering wheel position sensor, which if the part is available, I don't think is that difficult to replace. Bill can chime in on a way to test this. The other two issues look like a bad switch or bad connection in the seat. If Bill has any advice on testing, you can buy a replacement switch or even get a used one.
The 1287 is a steering wheel position sensor, which if the part is available, I don't think is that difficult to replace. Bill can chime in on a way to test this. The other two issues look like a bad switch or bad connection in the seat. If Bill has any advice on testing, you can buy a replacement switch or even get a used one.
Last edited by chaase; 06-21-2013 at 10:33 AM.
#16
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The 1214 is most likely the ABS module. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can probably fix it yourself. I think there is a thread describing how to fix it. You basically need to replace some relays that have gone bad. There are a few people on Ebay that will fix it for a fee. Absfixer.com fixed mine and the repaired unit outlasted the original unit. All you do is remove the unit and send it off to them for repair. The unit is easy to take out and just requires a Torx head screwdriver and about 20minutes depending on how skinny your arms are.
The 1287 is a steering wheel position sensor, which if the part is available, I don't think is that difficult to replace. Bill can chime in on a way to test this. The other two issues look like a bad switch or bad connection in the seat. If Bill has any advice on testing, you can buy a replacement switch or even get a used one.
The 1287 is a steering wheel position sensor, which if the part is available, I don't think is that difficult to replace. Bill can chime in on a way to test this. The other two issues look like a bad switch or bad connection in the seat. If Bill has any advice on testing, you can buy a replacement switch or even get a used one.
You can disassemble the EBTCM your self and either replace the relay and or solder the cold solder joints.
If you are unable or unwilling to do the repairs your self, you can remove the EBTCM portion of the unit and send the module to one of the INTERNET repair places. ABSFIXER is one of the more famous ABS repair people.
The steering sensor replacement is pretty straight forward and able to be done at home in the driveway.
You have a 2001 so the sensor is readily available and a new EBTCM is also still available if you desire to purchase one..
I hope we can help you resolve your issues.
That camel video is FUNNY!
Bill
#17
Melting Slicks
over on LS1tech in the Corvette section there are a couple of guys that post from your place on the planet, search for Venom WS7 they have a shop that does some pretty nice builds. They should be able to hook you up with a good mechanic