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C5 Inner Fender glue?

Old 07-14-2013, 12:33 PM
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Dukenukemx
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Default C5 Inner Fender glue?

Previous owner of my C5 Vette and ran into a lot of things with it. The inner fenders were damaged, so I ordered new ones from the dealer to replace them. Just as I'm about to remove the inner fender I noticed that no bolts held it in. Looked like glue of some sort. Did some Googling and yea, glue.

So what glue does this use? Will
Valvoline Pliogrip Panel 60 Valvoline Pliogrip Panel 60
do the job? Does this require any special tools or a gun to apply? Do I remove the old inner fenders with a heat gun and pry tool? Any advice on how to keep the new inner fenders lined up?
Old 07-14-2013, 01:36 PM
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Patches
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The body repair manual specifies:

— INSTALL OR CONNECT —

Important: Use US Chemical and Plastics
821014B System 2000 Structural Adhesive, a
PLIOGRIP® adhesive manufactured by Ashland
Chemical Company, or equivalent. Note the 9
minute working time and 1 hour cure time.

Notice: DO NOT adjust the fender by
compromising the wheelhouse to rail gap. This
gap must remain a nominal width to maintain
the correct adhesive strength. The gap should
be correct if the rails are properly located.
Notice: If possible, when prepping area for
service part leave small portions of original
adhesive in various places to act as shimming
for wheelhouse spacing from frame rails. If
original adhesive is not usable for shimming,
use paint stir sticks, or equivalent, and shim
according to body dimensions and body panel
alignment.

1 Remove all remaining adhesive, and scuff all
bonding surfaces to ensure proper adhesion.
(Refer to SMC Repair Procedures.)

2 Clean and prepare all bonding surfaces as
necessary. (Refer to SMC Repair Procedures.)
Important: Prior to refinishing, refer to
GM P/N 4901 Refinish Manual for
recommended products.

3 Apply approved anti-corrosion primer.
Notice: DO NOT top-coat any bonding
surface.

4 Temporarily attach the fender to the
wheelhouse. Align the fender to door and
hood by clamping the wheelhouse assembly
into place. Scribe line on rail to locate
wheelhouse.

5 Apply adhesive to the wheelhouse as shown
in Fig.Ê3.11. Position front wheelhouse
service part according to the scribe lines on
the rail. Install the four bracket bolts which
attach the wheelhouse to the front hinge
pillar, and clamp the wheelhouse to the rail.
Install headlamp mounting bracket. Trowel
around perimeter of bonding area to remove
excess adhesive and restore original
appearance.

6 Install all related panels and components.

Some Guidelines for SMC Repair

• Clean scuff and solvent wipe all areas to be
repaired.
• For added strength and durability, V-groove
and reinforce on at least one side of an SMC
joint using a tacky mesh tape or equivalent.
• When partial panel replacement is
performed, use two inch backing plates
made from SMC or E-coated steel, as a
reinforcement for all butt joints

Repairing Sheet Molded
Compound Panels


1 Scuff area where repair is to be performed.

2 Clean bond area with lint-free rag using a
water-based cleaner.

3 Cracks should be grooved and reinforced on
at least one side of an SMC joint using a
tacky mesh tape or equivalent.

4 Sectioning joints require backing strips 50mm
(2 inch) wide, cut strips from leftover pieces
of SMC.

5 Use US Chemical and Plastics System 2000
Structural Adhesive or equivalent (the US
Chemicals customer service number is
1-800-321-0672). Apply ahesive to the entire
‘joint’ area extending across the cut lines and
across the backer. Use tacky mesh tape or an
equivalent reinforcement matting. Allow to
cure according to adhesive manufacturer’s
recommendations.

6 Apply a thin coat of Goodwrench Structural
Bonding Epoxy (P/N 12345726) or equivalent
as a final coat to blend in the repair to
resemble OEM appearance.

SMC Repair Procedures
Bonding Undamaged SMC to
Epoxy Coated Steel


1 Prime all bare metal areas with an
anti-corrosion primer such as PPG’s DP90, or
equivalent. Some paint manufacturers
recommend a pre-primer when bonding to
epoxy. Always refer to paint manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not combine paint
systems.

2 Clean bond area with a lint-free rag using a
water-based cleaner.

3 Scuff both surfaces to be bonded using a
scuff pad such as 3M’s Scotch-Brite “Red”
scuff pad P/N 07447 or equivalent.

4 Ensure that the surface is clean and dry before
applying adhesive. Use compressed air. Do
not final wipe surface with hand or rag.

5 Determine whether adhesive is applied to the
vehicle or the replacement panel. Refer to
specific procedure of part being replaced.

6 Apply a consistent adhesive bond to
prepared surfaces.

7 Mechanically retain panel in place to “wet
out” adhesive along entire bonding surface.

8 Allow to cure according to adhesive
manufacturer’s recommendations.

Last edited by Patches; 07-14-2013 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:03 PM
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Dukenukemx
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Thanks, I liked your other thread better, it had pictures . Another question I have is how much glue would I need? I decided to go with 3M 8115 cause that's what everyone else uses. I've heard 4 tubes but this stuff is really expensive. Is it really 4 per fender?

Also, is SMC Panel Adhesive a good alternative to 3M 8115?

Last edited by Dukenukemx; 07-14-2013 at 03:10 PM.
Old 07-14-2013, 07:39 PM
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Patches
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I can send you the maual and it should help whith most of your questions. PM me your email address.
Old 07-16-2013, 01:04 PM
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I've got the idea how to put it together, thanks to Patches. I plan to leave behind some old glue as reference to align the new inner fender. Plus I'll use the headlight and rear bracket to hold the fender in place. I plan to mark the areas with a yellow crayon. Should ensure the fender stays where it should while the glue dries.

The problem is the choice of glue. I plan to go with Lord Fusor by the end of the week, but I would like to go with Evercoat 994 cause it doesn't need a gun and it's cheaper, but I'm not sure if it's equal in quality to Fusor or 3M. Would like to hear from people on what they think.

3M 8115, seems to be a popular choice for many, but very expensive at 200 ml.
Lord Fusor 127EZ, another popular choice and a better one from what I hear. Especially at 300 ml per bottle and a cheaper gun to dispense it.
Fiberglass Evercoat 994 SMC Panel Adhesive, which comes in a quart but no definitive answer if this can be used.
Evercoat Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler, also comes in a quart but no idea if a filler can be used to glue on the inner fender.
Old 11-01-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Patches
I can send you the maual and it should help whith most of your questions. PM me your email address.


We own an auto body repair shop and have a 1997 corvette that we are replacing the left fender apron on and it is the first one we have done. ANY advice on removal and installation of the new one, including the glue to use would be very much appreciated as right now we are depending on google and pretty much flying blind on it.
Old 11-02-2016, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by simpsonautobody
We own an auto body repair shop and have a 1997 corvette that we are replacing the left fender apron on and it is the first one we have done. ANY advice on removal and installation of the new one, including the glue to use would be very much appreciated as right now we are depending on google and pretty much flying blind on it.
I'll send you the body repair manual. All the infer you need should be in there.
Old 11-05-2016, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by simpsonautobody
We own an auto body repair shop and have a 1997 corvette that we are replacing the left fender apron on and it is the first one we have done. ANY advice on removal and installation of the new one, including the glue to use would be very much appreciated as right now we are depending on google and pretty much flying blind on it.
It was actually easy. Use a heat gun or similar device to heat up the fender and slowly pry it off. Try not to remove any paint to bare metal, otherwise you have to use a 2k or similar quality primer before using the glue. I used Lord Fusor 127EZ to glue it in place, and used left over scraps of the old glue to get the proper space needed. Then do your best to poor in the glue.
Old 11-07-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dukenukemx
It was actually easy. Use a heat gun or similar device to heat up the fender and slowly pry it off. Try not to remove any paint to bare metal, otherwise you have to use a 2k or similar quality primer before using the glue. I used Lord Fusor 127EZ to glue it in place, and used left over scraps of the old glue to get the proper space needed. Then do your best to poor in the glue.



They got it changed out - big thanks to the user that emailed me the repair manual - it is on the way to the paint booth now and hopefully ready for delivery tomorrow - thanks ya'll

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