ABS light + TC light + SVS light came on but no DTC's?
07-15-2013, 08:22 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
ABS light + TC light + SVS light came on but no DTC's?
I was driving my 97 home today and a few blocks from my house the ABS light, Traction Control light, and Service Vehicle Soon Text came up. I parked it in my garage and attempted to turn Traction control on/off with no effect. After turning the car off I hooked up my OBD tester but no DTC's came up. I started the car again and everything worked properly with no issues. Can someone shed some light on my situation? Thanks.
07-15-2013, 09:04 PM
#2
Racer
Thread Starter
First, unless you have an OBD tester that has a vehicle specific reader, you are not going to see anything but Emissions related codes. Those are standardizwd while the vehicle specific codes are not.
Second, there are many things that can trigger the ABS/Traction light on the C5. Some are easily fixed and others NOT. With a little luck your issue may be as simple as a bad wheel speed sensor connector.
Third, you own the only production automobile with its own built in Code reader. You just need to know how to use it and here's that info:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
OR
Lastly, once you have pulled all your codes, post them up in this thread and many here can help you determine the next step. Include the H or C or HC that follow each code.
Second, there are many things that can trigger the ABS/Traction light on the C5. Some are easily fixed and others NOT. With a little luck your issue may be as simple as a bad wheel speed sensor connector.
Third, you own the only production automobile with its own built in Code reader. You just need to know how to use it and here's that info:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
OR
Lastly, once you have pulled all your codes, post them up in this thread and many here can help you determine the next step. Include the H or C or HC that follow each code.
Here's what I got:
10-PCM:
P1571 H C
P1644 H C
40-BCM:
B0844 H
U1040 H
60-IPC:
U1040 H
80-RADIO:
U1016 H
A0-LDCM:
B2222 H
B2228 H
B2242 H
B2252 H
B2282 H
B2284 H
B2262 H
B2264 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
A1-RDCM:
B2283 H
B2285 H
U1064 H
A6-SCM:
B0851 H
B0856 H
B2606 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
B0-RFA:
C2120 H C
07-15-2013, 09:24 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Good news/bad news
The two PCM codes are the cause for the traction control messages.
But there are so many other codes that I suggest you clear them all, then drive the car a bit and see what comes back. Info above on pulling the codes also speaks to clearing them. Those that return are the ones needing attention.
Have you recently had battery problems or disconnected the battery?
Many of the codes you listed (LDCM & RDCM) are indicative of a battery related issue. Could be history from something recent or the battery may be causing problems now.
I would have the battery tested in any event.
Only reason for NOT clearing the codes is if you have an immediate upcoming need to go through emissions. Clearing the codes also clears the "readys" that require a drive cycle to reset. If the drive cycle isn't completed before you go, they will fail you and have you come back later.
The two PCM codes are the cause for the traction control messages.
But there are so many other codes that I suggest you clear them all, then drive the car a bit and see what comes back. Info above on pulling the codes also speaks to clearing them. Those that return are the ones needing attention.
Have you recently had battery problems or disconnected the battery?
Many of the codes you listed (LDCM & RDCM) are indicative of a battery related issue. Could be history from something recent or the battery may be causing problems now.
I would have the battery tested in any event.
Only reason for NOT clearing the codes is if you have an immediate upcoming need to go through emissions. Clearing the codes also clears the "readys" that require a drive cycle to reset. If the drive cycle isn't completed before you go, they will fail you and have you come back later.
07-15-2013, 09:33 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
They don't chip cars any more. You tune them with programming devices. HyperTech is one but I have no experience with it.
Codes you have are not related to any tuning, at least as far as I looked. There are WAY too many codes set to determine anything correctly/accurately. Clearing them and seeing what return is the way to go.
I would definitely check out the battery!!! JMHO
Is this car manual or auto??
Codes you have are not related to any tuning, at least as far as I looked. There are WAY too many codes set to determine anything correctly/accurately. Clearing them and seeing what return is the way to go.
I would definitely check out the battery!!! JMHO
Is this car manual or auto??
Here's a picture of it:
07-16-2013, 06:40 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Chantilly VA
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Clear codes and wait to see what happens OR, clear codes and wiggle the accordion tube between the drivers door and the body. I noticed that some of the codes you have are communications lost codes, in BCM, LDCM, RDCM. If you can get these codes to come back, I think your problem could be there.
I had a time chasing down all kinds of wack codes coming up at any old time, a few years back. Drove me nuts. Then I saw a post that suggested doing this. Low and behold, I could see the lights go out on the driver's door panel (windows, mirrors buttons, etc) and rechecked for codes and many were back up. Driving down the road, I would get all kinds of fatal messages, TC, reduce power, stop the F'n car NOW! Scared the pa-jesus out of me. I finally track down that there was something shorting out in this wiring bundle or opening up. I cleaned the connector that is inside the tube, and found that just inside the body, where this group comes in at, there was a panel that needed to be snapped back in place. There are posts about this. This may not be your problem, but it is easy to check out.
I had a time chasing down all kinds of wack codes coming up at any old time, a few years back. Drove me nuts. Then I saw a post that suggested doing this. Low and behold, I could see the lights go out on the driver's door panel (windows, mirrors buttons, etc) and rechecked for codes and many were back up. Driving down the road, I would get all kinds of fatal messages, TC, reduce power, stop the F'n car NOW! Scared the pa-jesus out of me. I finally track down that there was something shorting out in this wiring bundle or opening up. I cleaned the connector that is inside the tube, and found that just inside the body, where this group comes in at, there was a panel that needed to be snapped back in place. There are posts about this. This may not be your problem, but it is easy to check out.