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It is probably best if I just share with you the sequence of events as best I can.
My C5 is stock all the way. Six months or so ago the battery started going dead over night. I do mean dead, not enough to light the under hood light. I would charge the battery and it would start and run with everything electrical normal. Over night the battery would drain again. On the side...about a year ago I had the hazard switch replaced but honestly I do not remember the sequence of events that led to the replacement. Back to current problem. I sat in the vette one night and just started pushing every button to see if I could find a problem. All the fuses were good not were blown. As I pressed the hazard button, it made a brief noise that I cannot describe and would not work again. I drove the car the next day and noticed that I had no turn signals or brake lights....all else ok. Checking fuses the turn signal fuses both under dash and under the hood both were blown. I replaced them and had turn signals until I pressed hazard switch it blew the fuse again. So, I guess replace the hazard switch again. Why do they go bad so often, do I have a problem elsewhere that I am missing. The last time cost me several hundred dollars to fix it and I was left with a rattle on the left side of the dash. I assume he screwed it up. This time I will follow the 18 minute directions on this forum. Any ideas on what causes the switch to go bad?
Not at home now but I can work with you. When you put the Hazards on you are feeding the HS from another power source AND you are feeding the front signals via a different circuit from the HS and not thru the MF switch.
I was tired and I know that I should have mentioned this. If I charge the battery and do not replace the two mentioned blown fuses......all is well. So far the battery has held a charge for a week! Of course, without the fuses I have no brake lights or turn signals.
So we are clear please confirm the fuses that were blown and you removed (and in what fuse box).
I would think you are talking about fuse 15 for the Turn Signals and fuse 8 for the Hazards and Brake lights, both in the I/P fuse box. Based on your initial post I think it was one of those and another in the engine fuse box so this info is important.
Can you use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance so we can look for a short
So we are clear please confirm the fuses that were blown and you removed (and in what fuse box).
I would think you are talking about fuse 15 for the Turn Signals and fuse 8 for the Hazards and Brake lights, both in the I/P fuse box. Based on your initial post I think it was one of those and another in the engine fuse box so this info is important.
Can you use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance so we can look for a short
Mr. Sam
I am not home so from memory the fuses were marked as turn signals or brake light, both yellow(is that 20 amp) anyway one is under the dash the other under the hood next to battery.
I guess memory does not serve me too well, 72 years has taken its tole. I went under thr hood to get a spare fuse, I replaced nothing there. Under the dash you are correct 8 and 15 are both blown. The battery is fine it is still fully charged with those fuses out. Sorry for the confusion.
Must be interesting in the service department when someone messes up like this and you are trying to diagnose a problem.
Mr. Sam
I just went out to verify what I told you above. Yes on 8 and 15. While I was there I turned on the ignition. I got a high-pitched squeal a Buzzy kind of noise from the center behind the dashboard. In a matter of five seconds it killed the battery to the point where the was absolutely no power. I put the battery charger on quick charge brought it up turned the key on again and everything is normal all lights sounds and messages. Sounds to me like I've got more issues than I thought. I wonder if anybody would like to buy a C-5 project car. I've had it we've had a good 15 years.
Your battery must have been very close to being dead before you turned the key on. There is no way the ignition switch or any of the cars wiring could withstand the amount of current required to drain a properly charged battery in 5 seconds. Even the wire to the starter motor would burn-down carrying enough current to drain a battery in 5 seconds.
Your battery must have been very close to being dead before you turned the key on. There is no way the ignition switch or any of the cars wiring could withstand the amount of current required to drain a properly charged battery in 5 seconds. Even the wire to the starter motor would burn-down carrying enough current to drain a battery in 5 seconds.
You know just a thought....perhaps I have a bad ground somewhere. I agree about the wire being unable to carry that much current. Confusing.. I hate to take it in and pay them $100 an hour to go fishing but!
It is summer and it sits in the garage....grrrrrrrrr
08-14-2015, 01:01 AM
Battery Drain/Hazard-turn signal problem
