Chichi1986

I'm having the same issue with the pulley wobble, also my belt squeaks horribly. I get embarrassed everywhere i go because its such a nice car and to have that horrid sound kills the vibe. I'm also having some engine vibration and do not want to destroy my crank bearings. I ordered a summit racing damper but seems to be back ordered so I'll be calling them today to try swapping my order to the trick flow one. I have heard good reviews on that one. I also ordered a new ARP bolt and will be getting a new seal. I hope the install cost wont kill me. Wish me luck all. Should have everything installed withing a week or so. I'll post my review once everything's in and done. While I'm at it I think I am going tot install some new OEM motor mounts and tranny mounts just to be on the safe side while the cars in the lift. I just want her to be nice and smooth again.

vettenuts

Just don't follow LS1howto.com on how to change it, or you will be posting about how to fix the crankshaft threads.

Chichi1986

I'm not, Ill be taking the car to a reputable chevy guy here in town. I'll be helping him out as much as possible though. Maybe I'll be able to spray some purpole power while I'm down there and clean out any built up gunk.

John_B

I just bought a C5Z and it had a belt squeak, I replaced the drive belt and tensioner and it went away for a day then came back. So I took off the a/c belt and it hasn't made a sound in a few days so I'm trying to isolate the problem but the belt is old so I will throw a new a/c belt and tensioner on next weekend.

My concern is the crank pulley looks like it MIGHT have a slight wobble, but that's when looking at the pulley itself, if I look at the threads it seems to be straight. I'm hoping it's just an illusion and it's not wobbling, it's actually already an under drive pulley so unless they didn't torque it down correctly or re used the stock bolt (which I would really hope they would know better) it shouldn't be wobbling, the stock one is the issue

Chichi1986

I wish you luck with yours. Do you have any unsusual vibration in the car. I know your gonna feel some because its a stought motor but if you have noticed any increase in vibration I can probly bet its the balancer. And you should try putting in an ARP bolt. There a littler under $40, I know it sounds like a lot for one bolt but its well worth it if you ask me. When i get things done to the car I like to be worry free. At least my stock balancer lasted 92,000 miles. lol

John_B

I don't feel any unusual vibrations or anything, it's also my first LS motor and definitely first time with a cammed one lol so a little unsure with what's normal or not and paranoid. The car only has 15k miles and it has an under drive pulley like I said. I may bring it over to the local vette shop and just ask them to take a look and see if they think it's wobbling.

I've had the drive belt off about 5 times already in the first week of owning it so I'm getting familiar with the motor quickly lol

LoneStarFRC

While you have it up in the air, wire brush the HB belt-grooves. I know, I know, "they look clean" but over time, sand/grit gets packed (by the belt) in the grooves to one degree or another and will cause the belt to ride slightly higher. Even if they "look" clean, DO IT ANYWAY. Try to rotate the engine to get to all of it if necessary. Even GM recommends doing this.

HTH

Bill Curlee

I've had to deal with several different front pulley/balancer failures. The first was on my 02 ZO6. I had a massive oil leak... OIL EVERYWHERE! Other damper failures were on friends C5 & C6s..

The dampener sealing surface on my 02 Z looked JUST like Steve's example. The seal was a grey Seal:



I replaced my OEM dampener with a Power Bond Dampener. I also utilized the key way in the new Power Bond dampener and installed an ATI Side Pin in the crank using the ATI pinning kit. It was extremely easy!





Some NOTES that may help you with damper service:

If you suspect that the dampener INNER HUB & the OUTER RING are separated from each other, paint a white strip across the front of the dampener (including the outer ring, rubber elastomer seal and the inner hub). After you drive the car, examine the white strip. If its no longer lined up as you originally painted it on, the dampener needs REPLACED!

If you are having a difficult time getting the dampener to slide off OR back on the end of the crank, use a Wagner Power Heat Gun and heat the inner hub up to approx 150-200 deg. It will slide On or OFF much easier.

If you have a MN6/MN12 C5, The dampener needs to ne MARKED to the position on the crank. The C5 MN6/MN12 mated engine goes through an additional finial external balancing to get the engine/drivetrain harmonics down to an acceptable level. You are suppose to maintain that off set balance. Just Saying. Its way more important to maintain that balance on the FLYWHEEL!!

Bill

John_B

So I went back out and looked at the crank pulley, i got a friends opinion and he seems to think it was wobbling, I rested my hand steady on the rack so my hand didn't move and touched my finger to the front of the pulley and could feel it coming on and off my finger tip. And then I took a slow motion video on my phone and can really see it wobbling.

It's not as bad as most videos I've seen around here but it's still not straight. I guess I need another under drive pulley. It sucks that it happened to an already upgraded pulley! And not to mention I just bought the car

LoneStarFRC

Post #15.

SteveDoten

Some great info worth sharing.

Hope this Helps.

Steve.

Bill Curlee

Hey Steve Nice hearing from ya!!

Bill

Mike94ZLT1

Where on earth have you been?

HT99

I recently discovered mine wobbles.
I feel different engine vibrations at 2-2.5k RPM.

53k miles, it's been happening for a while, just didn't know why until I changed my AC compressor with new belts, then noticed the wobble. I wish I knew before the AC change, would have been much easier to change the pulley.

Plan on replacing it myself soon, couple of questions.

I'm planning on adding a supercharger later this year, probably A&A v3 T version, engine is all stock, mostly street, little track.

Car is a manual 6 speed, is installation same as automatic transmission?

Need some advice:

Should I go with A&A 8 rib conversion that includes Innovators West 10% od pulley? (I think I can run the 6 rib belt until I install the SC)

Or go with ATI, Powerbond or Trick Flow?

Pinning the crank
- 1 pin front method
- 2 or 3 pin front
- ATI 3 pin side method?

Thanks.