kyleking777

Okay fellas, I need some help to figure this one out.

Here is how it all started, this may be useless information, but maybe you guys can link it so what happened. I went out to change the belts on the vette. Both the serpentine,and the air conditioning belt. Which was kind of a pain due to how tight everything is under there. I was kinda laying my arms all over the engine and i guess could have bumped a wire harness or something but i really don't think so. After I was all finished, I started her up, and it ran quiet and smooth as it should. Never took it out of the garage or anything just started it up and pushed the gas a little and was satisfied.

About 3 hours later.....

I hoped in it to go to Walmart. I was going to pick up some new speakers or at least see if they had any that would fit. As i backed the vette out of the garage, and turned onto the street. I hit a fairly large bump in the street. (Maybe related, maybe not) right as i hit it, my CEL flashed on and my engine cut out. Obviously i was concerned...
I then kinda punched the gas to see if it would do it again and it didnt. So i continued my drive for about 5 seconds and it died. I couldnt gt it to start back up for few minutes. Just turn over. it eventually started back up and i came straight home. After examining all connections of wires i could have laid on while changing my belts, i started it back up and it ran like normal. Drove down the street, did all sorts of driving styles (fast take off, slow take off, etc.) and couldnt get it do do it. So i hoped whatever it was it was fixed. but i was doubtful.

So i went back to walmart, drove fine. Got out of walmart, wouldnt start. Woulnt even turn over. When i turned the key, it was like there was no battery power! eventually after many tries, i got it to start and at least get me home after dying 3 times on the way home.

This morning, it wont even start. every once in a while i can get it to turn over. got it to run once but with the "reduce engine power", "service vehicle soon", and "service traction system"... and the check engine light with multiple codes that ill list at the end. Ive checked the battery, it showing 12.7 V. good there, i have a really odd clicking in the fuel pump that i can hear from the back, as well as some intense "relay sounding" clicking coming from the front fuse box under the hood. After checking this sound out, sure enough it the fuel pump relay thats clicking. i switched it out with the horn relay and it didnt change a thing. now im lost in where to begin, what could have caused it? it is very cold outside, was about 25 lastnight, and 12 this morning. Also, i dont know if that plays a role or not.

Here are the codes thats i have...

P1518 H
C1228 H
C1255 H
C1276 H
C1278 H
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1000 H
U1040 H
U1096 H
U1064 H
C2105 H
C2115 H

Bill Curlee

LOL

See if you can move the battery cable/terminals on the battery by HAND! If you can rotate them ANY at all,,, they are loose. Battery cables on a C5 MUST be 100% tight. Remove, cleanwith wire brush and reinstall TORQUE to 11 FT/LBS for proper connection

Each time you reconnect the battery, you will find DTCs in the system. Just the way it is. NORMAL.

Clear the DTCs and monitor. The nextime you have an issue, read and post the DTCs WITHOUT turning off the ignition!!

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

LoneStarFRC

I agree with BC as far as it being a "primary power" (B+) issue.

In that regard, the FIRST connection I would check (after the basic battery terminal check) is the Batt cable connection at the STARTER SOLENOID ITSELF.
Of course you'll need to disconnect the Neg batt terminal first.

From the symptoms you describe, you are correct to not just disregard the "large bump" in the road you spoke of, as being "coincidental".

HTH

Bill Curlee

HOPE NOSIS!!!!!!! I almost spit coffee on my monitor I laughed so hard when I saw you avatar!!!!!!!!!!

kyleking777

If it was a primary power issue would all my power relays be clicking and cutting out? Including my lights? And everything? Not just my fuel pump? It honestly feels and sounds like it's just not getting any fuel, however I greatly appreciate all of your alls help!!!! I'll check that as soon as I get back home!!

LoneStarFRC

Primary means at the source.
Loose connection (for example battery cable) will definitely cause a relay "chorus". They be clicking on and off each time they lose power.
Your basic 12V to power the car is being turned on and off essentially.

kyleking777

Well I was hoke for a split second and was able to check the connections to the battery. I was able to barely turn the wires a little so I tightened them down like you said to 11ft lb. got in the cafe, started it up, fired right up. Then died immediately. Then wouldn't even turn over after that. So, that's where I'm at.

LoneStarFRC

Disconnect your neg batt cable first, and then get under there and check the Pos cable AT THE SOLENOID.