Steering column reattach to rebuilt steering rack
#1
Steering column reattach to rebuilt steering rack
I am new to forum. I apologize if this is already discussed. 2000 C5 FRC. I did mark at the end of the steering shaft before removing the steering rack. I have kept the steering wheel and column shaft in position (immobile) but now that I look at the old steering rack and the rebuilt steering rack I think I may have removed the coupler from the old rack with the rack turned, meaning not centered. I am concerned about if I am out of position between the two I might overwind the electronics (SIR?) inside the steering wheel. Does anyone have reinstallation tips? I am guessing to gently and not overturning the steering wheel from full left turn to full right turn counts and then get wheel centered based on turns and then attach coupler with rebuilt rack in centered position? Thanks for any advice and further cautions.
#2
Drifting
So if you immobilized the seeing wheel,, was it moved? If not,then you may be OK. Assuming the wheels were pointing straight ahead, then you can put the rack in and adjust the tie rod ends so that the wheels are straight ahead and your steering wheel is level in the straight-ahead posiition.
Your idea tu turn the steering wheel is not a good one. I think the proper way is to measure voltage on the swaps to find "tdc" of the steering wheel. Search swaps install, and you should find a post regarding this
Your idea tu turn the steering wheel is not a good one. I think the proper way is to measure voltage on the swaps to find "tdc" of the steering wheel. Search swaps install, and you should find a post regarding this
#3
Swps
Thanks for the reply. I am not convinced the wheels were straight when I remove. I am pretty sure I centered steering wheel. Probably hasn't moved, but I didn't secure it. I am going to check the SWPS with a voltmeter to verify true center. I do realize this is critical for slip angle input for Active Handling. I just where the SWPS connector with the orange/black, grey, light green and light blue wires are. Off to search more threads or try to find in my electronic version of the service manual. Unless someone cares to save me that and reply with the location.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#4
Le Mans Master
Here are two Threads that might help. If you need more help let us know.
http://www.ddisoftware.com/c5-procs/
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...on-sensor.html
http://www.ddisoftware.com/c5-procs/
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...on-sensor.html
#5
Thanks
Guys, thanks. You have been very helpful and welcoming. I have been party to the RX8Club because of my track dedicated RX8 where you get shot down, criticized and constantly told nasty and stupid stuff. Class act here. Nice.
Here is what I learned from your replies and further research. If I don't get this right then I will damage the SWPS (Steering Wheel Position Sensor) could be damaged. If it is not in true middle of potentiometer range then once turned while driving the sensor would overwind and break. Also if not centered and in middle of entire range there would be slip angle error codes.
I found that the SWPS is fed by 5 volts and then the output to the computer module is .25V for one rotation left from middle of SWPS range and middle true on center/middle of range is 2.5volts and one rotation to right is 4.75 volts. More than one rotation left or right is no change in volts and getting closer to damage even when testing from over rotation.
All of this doesn't matter if I had made sure front wheels were straight and restrained the steering wheel centered before removing the rack. I may be fine, but don't' want to chance it so I will be seeking the SWPS connector/wires under the dash at the steering column with voltmeter on hand.
Thanks again guys. Any corrections to above welcome and any hints on where to find the SWPS connector more specifically welcome.
Here is what I learned from your replies and further research. If I don't get this right then I will damage the SWPS (Steering Wheel Position Sensor) could be damaged. If it is not in true middle of potentiometer range then once turned while driving the sensor would overwind and break. Also if not centered and in middle of entire range there would be slip angle error codes.
I found that the SWPS is fed by 5 volts and then the output to the computer module is .25V for one rotation left from middle of SWPS range and middle true on center/middle of range is 2.5volts and one rotation to right is 4.75 volts. More than one rotation left or right is no change in volts and getting closer to damage even when testing from over rotation.
All of this doesn't matter if I had made sure front wheels were straight and restrained the steering wheel centered before removing the rack. I may be fine, but don't' want to chance it so I will be seeking the SWPS connector/wires under the dash at the steering column with voltmeter on hand.
Thanks again guys. Any corrections to above welcome and any hints on where to find the SWPS connector more specifically welcome.
#6
Melting Slicks
When I pulled my steering rack for harmonic balancer replacement, somehow my steering wheel must have turned. Reinstalled the rack and had the code, pulled the SWPS wires, tapped the blue wire with the VOM moved it to 2.5V, reconnected everything and it was fine. That was 1000+ autocrosses and 75+high speed laps ago and it is still working.
#7
Harmonic Balancer
Exact same scenario. I pulled out rack to change harmonic balancer pulley and front oil seal. This is all good, I now know what I need to do to prevent codes and to not damage the SWPS. Thanks. Over and out on this one I hope.