tweeter81

Alright guys and gals (sorry in advance for the wordy post below),

I posted a thread about a month ago asking about voltages and how that impacts the EBCM, and ultimately the thread lead me to go the route of sending in my EBCM (from a 100,000 mile highly modified 2002 Z06) into a repair place (won't name them, but they are well known on this forum -- I don't want to lay this issue on them if it's not really there fault, see below).

Fast forward a month and my car is back from 3 weeks in the shop getting a new clutch, rebuilding driveshaft, new RPM trans, and various other small fixes. One of them was removing the EBCM (which in my case is located directly under a Vortech supercharger, so the blower has to be removed, there is absolutely no other way to get to the EBCM), and sending it in for repair, with a surge protection upgrade as well. Anyway, we got the repaired module back and put it back on the car and started her up and low and behold the TC/AH/ABS functions were all inoperable due to the C1214 code still being thrown. So we figured it could be one of two things:

1) The blower sits extremely close to and possibly touches the top of the EBCM, which makes it hard to ensure that the clip gets closed properly and it makes a good, solid connection. The blower was removed again and all the connections were tweaked as best as they could be to try and get a solid connection. My mechanic also ran the automated bleed procedure twice to make sure that wasn't the issue.

2) Then we thought that maybe since the car had been apart and all of the wheel speed sensors had been unplugged, maybe it would take a few drive cycles to get everything working again. Well, even after 30 or so miles and various restarts, it's still throwing the code.

My dilemma is that every time the EBCM needs to come off the car, the blower has to be removed which is a huge pain in the butt. The internet repair place is offering to send a pre-paid box for me to re-send the EBCM back under warranty...which is great, but due to how hard it is to remove I can't keep having to do this...

Does anyone have an insight into what could still be wrong, or do I just assume the most logical solution is that the internal repair just simply wasn't done correctly, since the C1214 code is still pointing to the original problem?

Another note, I bought the car off of Ebay a few months ago, and put about 20 miles on it prior to all of these new parts being installed. And before the EBCM quit working for good, I did absolutely have ABS and TC/AH for that brief period of time. I say this because even though there are some fitment issues with the blower, EBCM and overall braking system obviously was working in its current form/setup, so to speak. Then after the battery went dead and I recharged it, that is when the C1214 code first showed up and has never gone off since, even though the internal repair has supposedly been completed.

I feel like I'm banging my head against a wall here (mostly due to this plus the laundry list of other problems the car had), so I could really use some direction from anybody out there.

tweeter81

My mechanic said that all EBCM related fuses were checked and good, although I will double check all of them as soon as I get the chance.

No smoking gun yet as far as why the "repaired" module isn't working...

Cowboy26a

Brandon at ABFixer told me that the 1214 code is directly related to the relay in the EBCM when I called about getting mine fixed.

Architect

This could be as simple as replacing the battery.

JoeyG

I had my ebcm repaired, new power and ground wires, and full fluid bleeds trying to cure that code. Ended up my pump motor went to ***** on my 01. I hope your lucks better. No I haven't replaced the motor.

tweeter81

Battery is a good 2012 year Optima Red top that maintains a 13.6 volt charge during use.

tweeter81

Hmmmm, I do have a big brake kit that's been on the car for a long time, so I wonder if my brake pump motor is bad too.

Is there a way to for sure tell if that's the problem?

ScaryFast

You can run the pump motor manually with a tech II to check it.

You mentioned that your mechanic ran the automated bleed procedure several times, but you can not do this with any codes present. All of those operations are cancelled if there are any DTC's in the EBCM.

This specifically applies to a tech II, if there is another tool (like a Snap on) perhaps it will allow these functions. I know this because I spent all weekend working the same problem (as you've seen in the other thread...) and anytime I tried to run self-test, auto bleed, or manually activate solenoids or the motor the tool will not allow it.

tweeter81

Good to know, and I should say that I'm not certain that my mechanic had a Tech II, it could've been a different tool altogether. So I think, based on this knowledge, that if they did run the automated bleed procedure (with something other than Tech II), but the C1214 is still present, then that would likely mean that the relay internal to the EBCM has not been repaired correctly.

ScaryFast

I know you're trying to NOT pull the module out again because it's a PITA, but if you do it's easy to check that relay. You can simply put 12V across and hear it click. That could tell you if it's the relay or the solder joints. Hopefully it's not something else entirely...

I had the C1214, resoldered it and now I have a C1218. Haven't had a chance to figure that one out yet but if I find anything relevant to your situation I'll post back here.

But I think what I'm reading is that you should sell me the car cheap You don't want the headache.