ericdwong

Hey all, just wondering what your thoughts are on pinning a replacement harmonic balancer on a car with just bolt on mods. My harmonic balancer wobbles and is getting up there in miles. I have to change some steering parts so I figure while i'm in there I might as well change the balancer. But while I'm changing the balancer, is there any point in pinning the new unit on a near stock car? There is a possibility of adding a supercharger later down the road

But for now I plan on getting a Powerbond in OE size. Thoughts?

RoccoC5

I'd definitely pin it, especially if you think you may do a supercharger later. Heck, even if you don't. It's a lot of work to get to the balancer and you won't want to have to do it again. It's extra insurance to keep the balancer from spinning and backing out the bolt.

The powerbond should be just fine, same one I'm using on my supercharged build.

k24556

You will have fun drilling with the radiator and condenser in the way. Wear a hard hat and expect to do some cussing.

If it is wobbling, it needs changing pretty quick. Thrown fan belts= overheating. Busted balancer will take out other valuable stuff, steering cooler, radiator, condenser etc.

ericdwong

Sure sounds like a project! To give an idea of what I've done so far, I've had the entire driveline out on 2 different occasions (by myself on jackstands! ) to replace the clutch and to open the trans to replace some synchros. Never replaced the balancer though, but hope it's within my realm.

I threw my main belt once at the drag strip and the car almost instantly overheated (yikes!) fortunately it was just a weak tensioner that time.

Just curious- would a right angle drill help when pinning? I havent read too far into it just yet as I only thought about this last night...

RoccoC5

The right-angle drill might help if you choose to leave the radiator and fans in the car. When I did mine, I removed the radiator and fans and had plenty of room for a standard cordless drill.

neutron82

if you have done a clutch this will be a cakewalk... you don't have to totally remove the rack, I just moved mine over towards the passenger side until I had enough clearance... and as stated above, be careful with the steering wheel/shaft... what I did was use some tie straps wrapped around the steering wheel to the seat rails just to remind myself not to move it

ericdwong

Good info. I have a right angle cordless drill, but may remove the radiator anyway since I have to change the coolant. Seems like one thing always just leads to another

aquachuck1

Yes , pin the new HB. Even if you plan nothing right now its only a few bucks to getting the pinning kit...you wont want to go thru that work again. Since you are removing the old HB....plan to replace the crank seal on the timing chain cover....if you dont you will have to do the HB pull again to get to the seal(I know this from experience)when it starts to leak in a few years.

My most important tool for removing the bolt on the HB was a 4 foot piece of copper pipe...to put over the breaker bar when you try to get the bolt out....my impact wrench was totally useless on the HB bolt.

Good Luck

smittydog

Way easier than pulling the driveline. Clean your radiator and AC core while they are apart. They get packed with garbage that you can't see or get to until the radiator is out. Heat the balancer up to about 200 degrees in the oven and it will slide home on a cold crank with almost no effort.

vettenuts

The Powerbond has a keyway cut in the hub and is perfect for the ATI pin kit. No need to end drill the crank.

martysauto

Great idea same effect as freezing ball joints for easy install.

RoccoC5

Not unless it's the Powerbond OEM style (PB1117-N).

lionelhutz

http://powerbondbalancers.carshopinc...6340/PB1117-SS

Enlarge the picture. You can clearly see the PB1117-SS p/n and the keyway on the unit.

I would also recommend you use the ATI pinning kit.

Chicago1

A better question is why you wouldn't? As others have stated move the rack over pull the radiator and you have plenty of room. Its not that bad I have done it twice.

RoccoC5

Yep, you are right. I was just trying to point out that Powerbond does make an "OEM' style version (p/n PB1117-N) that does not have a keyway (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...117N/02316.oap). Either way, seems that the general consensus is to pin the crank while you're in there!

Gordy M

If you are into racing--HPDE, autocross, drag, etc.-- you should pin the new pulley. There are two popular types used, the ATI and the Kent-Moore. I have the latter and have pinned mu own vette and a few others. Like they said above, you can move the rack and use a right angle drill without any problem. I used a white pen and marked my settings for the steering before I moved anything. Hardest part was getting one of the power steering hoses back on.