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Water in clutch

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Old 05-29-2014, 05:10 PM
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Jack R. Stein
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Default Water in clutch

So I picked up my C5 from storage for 5 months and started to make the almost 2 hour drive home. After it warmed up, I got on it in second gear and went from 2500 rpms to 6000 and when I went to upshift the clutch did not come up. I slowed down and matched the rpm to the gears and was able to shift without the clutch. I actually had 1 1/2 hours left to drive and miraculously made it back to my mechanic with only having to blow 2 red lights (carefully). Anyway, he checked the clutch fluid and found water in the top. He drained it out and I worked the clutch quite a bit and forced the car to go by pushing it into first gear. After trying to shift for a few minutes, I drove back to the shop and he drained a bit more water out and refilled with fresh clutch fluid. I got it home but the clutch will still not disengage fully to allow me to shift properly or stop without it dying in gear (with the clutch fully depressed). My mechanic says that my clutch is fine and that I will need to work the fluid into it and that it will get better. My question is, how long does this take? Anyone have any experience with this. One other item, the storage that I used has no heat and no air conditioning and my mechanic tells me that the changes in temperature was the cause of the water developing in the clutch as well as the brakes (although they performed fine). Thanks in advance for the help!
Old 05-29-2014, 08:36 PM
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dannyman
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I'd be completely draining the fluid and replacing with new.

I would not be driving the car until I knew the fluid was 100 per cent clean.







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Old 05-29-2014, 09:09 PM
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mpride
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Originally Posted by dannyman
I'd be completely draining the fluid and replacing with new.

I would not be driving the car until I knew the fluid was 100 per cent clean.


I would get the turkey baster out and start pulling fluid out, replacing the fluid, pumping the clutch and repeating.
Old 05-29-2014, 09:43 PM
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martysauto
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I suggest you flush it with a pressure bleeder. That will get all the contaminated fluid out of the master and slave. Just leave the bleeder open until it comes out clean.
Old 05-30-2014, 08:37 AM
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dadaroo
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Originally Posted by martysauto
I suggest you flush it with a pressure bleeder. That will get all the contaminated fluid out of the master and slave. Just leave the bleeder open until it comes out clean.
I totally agree. You could also use a vacuum pull using something like a Mighty Mite. I bleed brake/clutch systems using that device and method.
Old 05-30-2014, 11:17 AM
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3sACROWD
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I don't agree with your mechanic regarding the cold storage causing the water in the fluid. You only had the car stored for 5 months. It takes a long time for condensation to accumulate due to external temperature fluctuations. Especially to a level that would cause a problem. Both the clutch and brake systems are closed and have minimal air in them so condensation should also be fairly minimal.

My guess is your car has not had either of these fluids changed in a long time if ever. (I'm not accusing you of bad maintenance. Most people never think to change brake and clutch fluid) In your case, the water that has accumulated over time likely settled to the lowest point in the system and was sufficient enough (this time) to cause a problem. Once you brought the engine up to temperature, the water was boiling and you lost the clutch. As a reference, I change my brake and clutch fluids annually as I drive my car often and in all but snowy conditions. I store my car in an unheated garage and do not have any issues like you reported. My motorcycle sees the same conditions and no problems there either.

You are introducing water and contaminants into the clutch and brake systems each time you cycle the pistons. This water and contamination entry is far greater than any condensation build up will ever occur on a car stored for 5 months.

Get into the habit of changing your clutch and brake fluids at least every two years and you'll notice an improvement in the performance of those systems. The cost to replace fluids is cheap and money well spent. I change mine prior to storage so there isn't much if any water to settle in the system.

Using a pressure bleeder or mighty vac is the best method to ensure a more thorough exchange and cleaning. I don't have either but my trusted mechanic does and it is still very affordable to pay him vs neglecting the car. Plus I don't have to dispose of the used fluids.
Old 05-30-2014, 02:32 PM
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Jack R. Stein
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Originally Posted by 3sACROWD
I don't agree with your mechanic regarding the cold storage causing the water in the fluid. You only had the car stored for 5 months. It takes a long time for condensation to accumulate due to external temperature fluctuations. Especially to a level that would cause a problem. Both the clutch and brake systems are closed and have minimal air in them so condensation should also be fairly minimal.

My guess is your car has not had either of these fluids changed in a long time if ever. (I'm not accusing you of bad maintenance. Most people never think to change brake and clutch fluid) In your case, the water that has accumulated over time likely settled to the lowest point in the system and was sufficient enough (this time) to cause a problem. Once you brought the engine up to temperature, the water was boiling and you lost the clutch. As a reference, I change my brake and clutch fluids annually as I drive my car often and in all but snowy conditions. I store my car in an unheated garage and do not have any issues like you reported. My motorcycle sees the same conditions and no problems there either.

You are introducing water and contaminants into the clutch and brake systems each time you cycle the pistons. This water and contamination entry is far greater than any condensation build up will ever occur on a car stored for 5 months.

Get into the habit of changing your clutch and brake fluids at least every two years and you'll notice an improvement in the performance of those systems. The cost to replace fluids is cheap and money well spent. I change mine prior to storage so there isn't much if any water to settle in the system.

Using a pressure bleeder or mighty vac is the best method to ensure a more thorough exchange and cleaning. I don't have either but my trusted mechanic does and it is still very affordable to pay him vs neglecting the car. Plus I don't have to dispose of the used fluids.
You are correct that I have not changed either of the fluids. I will have both bled and drained. The car has only 5K since the build which included brakes and clutch but the engine/clutch was done 4 years ago. I won't make that mistake again. Thank you all for your help!

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