Rear CV Boot Leak
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear CV Boot Leak
I found grease on the inside of my wheel and further investigation uncovered a small crack in the rear CV boot on the passenger side. I've read several posts but I am looking for a little direction and advice here. First off, is there a temporary fix for the boot to stop leaking. (I had to ask this because there are some very smart and innovative members in here so you never know.) Second, it appears that if I have the right tools, I can do this in my garage based on some write ups I've found. I had planned on an alignment next week anyway.
Is it best to just go buy the entire axle assembly (~$75-$85 at Auto Zone or O'Reilly) and do it myself? My car is only a street car, no racing etc, so figured the autozone/Reilly was good enough, what would you recommend? While I am in there, any specific parts to replace, seals, tie rod ends, bearing, etc.?
I've been chasing a pulsating (on/off) vibration while finding this crack, but don't think it has anything to do with it since it still seems to have plenty of grease in it.
Anyway sorry so long, but any comments or advice would be appreciated! Thanks! BTW, car is an 03 Base M6, 49k miles.
Is it best to just go buy the entire axle assembly (~$75-$85 at Auto Zone or O'Reilly) and do it myself? My car is only a street car, no racing etc, so figured the autozone/Reilly was good enough, what would you recommend? While I am in there, any specific parts to replace, seals, tie rod ends, bearing, etc.?
I've been chasing a pulsating (on/off) vibration while finding this crack, but don't think it has anything to do with it since it still seems to have plenty of grease in it.
Anyway sorry so long, but any comments or advice would be appreciated! Thanks! BTW, car is an 03 Base M6, 49k miles.
Last edited by 2003RedVette; 06-08-2014 at 04:47 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Belleville Mich.
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If your not racing & not at high RPM's, the after market assembly will be just fine.
Personally. I'd use the GM axle & install a GM boot kit.
Comes with the boot, cir clip, two clamps & the proper poly grease.
To save some bucks, you could pull the axle & take the axle to a suspension mechanic to put the GM boot kit on for you.
Slap it back in & your done & saved some money.
Personally. I'd use the GM axle & install a GM boot kit.
Comes with the boot, cir clip, two clamps & the proper poly grease.
To save some bucks, you could pull the axle & take the axle to a suspension mechanic to put the GM boot kit on for you.
Slap it back in & your done & saved some money.
Last edited by bumble-z; 06-09-2014 at 11:16 AM.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
If your not racing & not at high RPM's, the after market assembly will be just fine.
Personally. I'd use the GM axle & install a GM boot kit.
Comes with the boot, two clamps & the proper poly grease.
To save some bucks, you could pull the axle & take the axle to a suspension mechanic to put the GM boot kit on for you.
Slap it back in & your done & saved some money.
Personally. I'd use the GM axle & install a GM boot kit.
Comes with the boot, two clamps & the proper poly grease.
To save some bucks, you could pull the axle & take the axle to a suspension mechanic to put the GM boot kit on for you.
Slap it back in & your done & saved some money.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Bob! I know Harbor Freight all too well, thanks for the heads up! Do you remember what the pliers were called or a part number?
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Belleville Mich.
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To do this job properly you should (on the end your working on) remove the bearings from the race & clean all the pieces, prior to using the new poly grease & reinstalling.
I found using a small radiator hose clamp to close the cir clip,
(for removal of old cir clip & reinstalling the new one)
came in very handy & made life easier.
I found using a small radiator hose clamp to close the cir clip,
(for removal of old cir clip & reinstalling the new one)
came in very handy & made life easier.
#8
Team Owner
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_17642.jpg
Individual 4" pair is item# 39531
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_18691.jpg
These are the smaller versions and depending on the size of the band clamp, you may need a larger size. This small set is only $6.99 and the individuals are $2.49.
A larger 10" version (item# 38496 $6.99) would probably work for the larger size clamps:
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_17276.jpg
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
An update since my last post:
I ended up replacing the passenger side rear axle myself. (Didn't want to mess with changing the boot myself and all the shops I visited either wanted too much $$$ or they didn't even want to touch it.) The job wasn't that bad, had to borrow a couple tools from the local AZone. Since I was in there, and also trying to chase a vibration issue, I elected to replace the wheel hub bearing as well. Once finished, everything felt great, BUT, still had the vibration. So, this past weekend I replaced the passenger side front wheel hub bearing, and guess what, vibration issue resolved!
Thanks guys!
I ended up replacing the passenger side rear axle myself. (Didn't want to mess with changing the boot myself and all the shops I visited either wanted too much $$$ or they didn't even want to touch it.) The job wasn't that bad, had to borrow a couple tools from the local AZone. Since I was in there, and also trying to chase a vibration issue, I elected to replace the wheel hub bearing as well. Once finished, everything felt great, BUT, still had the vibration. So, this past weekend I replaced the passenger side front wheel hub bearing, and guess what, vibration issue resolved!
Thanks guys!
#12
Personally I had this issue in the exact same spot. I caught it before it spit out very much grease. I used an old ATV trick since the cut wasnt on a part of the boot that twists or bends. I cleaned it off with brake clean very good. Even used a rag on my finger nail to get into the cut some and clean it up. Then I took black permatex RTV silicone and pushed a very small amount into the cut, then covered the cut on the outside by smoothing the RTV over a bigger surface next to the snap ring. No more leak, and I have about 5k miles like this. This RTV is soft and pliable, and the black RTV is oil and grease resistant. Im sure a few of the diehards will laugh at this, but it works and you dont have to pull the axle out. This only works on parts of the boot outside of the accordian in the center.
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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The pliers for the clamps are specific for installing the clamps. The tools linked in this thread can work but they're not the proper tool. This is an example of what the pliers for the boot clamps actually look like.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-TOOLS-CV-...-/141356617038
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-TOOLS-CV-...-/141356617038