Originally Posted by corvette77

Does it sound like the starter is engaging? Could also be ignition switch.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

If the security light is on with the key in the ON position, the pellet on the key is NOT being read correctly. Could be oxidation on the pellet or on the fine wire inside the key cylinder that reads the key or could be damage to the fine wire in the key cylinder.

If you have a backup key you can try that. Or purchase an aerolsol container of electrical contact cleaner Parts store or Radio Shack for certain. Spray some in the key cylinder then insert and remove the key 15 or 20 times wiping the key on a soft lint free cloth. Repeat if needed.

If that doesn't do it you are looking at a new key cylinder or a bypass of the VAT's system.

You can also jumper the TDR relay in the passenger foot well above the BCM.

Originally Posted by corvette77

Does it sound like the starter is engaging? Could also be ignition switch.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

What happens to the security light on the dash when you put the key in the ignition and turn to the start position? Does the security light stay illuminated solid??? Does it blink??? Does it go out??

Here is a procedure for pulling the codes on the car. Read and or watch the video carefully to see how to do this.

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php


OR






Then pull your codes and write them down including the H or C or HC that follow the 5 character code and then post them in this thread. Someone will help you understand the codes.

Is the car a manual or automatic trans car?? May make a difference.

If you or your husband are not a little mechanically inclined you MAY be better off taking the car to a Corvette specialist (NOT the Stealership). While we can help you identify what is happening, someone on your end MAY need some mechanical aptitude to correct the issue(s).

BCM is Body Control Module or one of the major computers in your car.

TDR is Theft Deterrent Relay or the relay that gets enabled to engage the starter if the correct key is used to try and start the car.

VATS is the Vehicle Anti Theft System. The BCM reads the resistance value of the pellet on the key and compares what it reads to a stored value. If they match then the TDR relay is allowed to provide power to the starter. If no match then the starter is denied power. The "system" of doing this is referred to as VATS.

Key Cylinder is the slot on the dash that you insert the key into. Inside that slot (cylinder) there is a tiny wire that passes across the pellet on the key to read the resistance value of the pellet. Behind the key cylinder and engaged when the key is turned is a complex set of contacts that distribute power to various devices in the car. That set of contacts is referred to as the ignition switch. Issues with one or more contact surfaces in the ignition switch can also prevent the car from starting.

Originally Posted by joraeperkins

We replaced the battery - which was needed.., it was the original.. with 89,000 miles
Started fine... then my husband tried to start the car and again no start.
he put it into neutral and it started.

is the ignition switch replacement an easy fix?

Originally Posted by corvette77

Has your issue been resolved? Replacing the ignition switch is an easy task. Just an FYI, when mine went out, I could disconnect the battery, and it would fire up, once.

Originally Posted by joraeperkins

what do you mean fire up once?
Did you replace the ignition switch

Originally Posted by joraeperkins

I think we will replace the switch. This is my daily driver. Today she started fine twice. Then after an hour drive and off for about ten minutes she didn't want to start. I removed the key wiped off the contact wire 2x the 3rd try she started right up. Security light stayed off.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

BEFORE you go and install an ignition switch I suggest you first DIAGNOSE the switch to insure it is problematic. You might not be very happy if you replaced a fairly expensive part and still had the same problem(s).

Here are 2 links about the Ignition Switch:

Diagnosis


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html

If the voltage measurement across the battery is different that the voltage across the fuses by more than about 0.7 volts, then it is probably worth installing a new ignition switch. The fuses you are measuring are AFTER the ignition switch so bad contacts in the ignition switch would drop the voltage at the fuses.

If the ignition switch is indicated bad by the diagnosis then here is the info on removing the switch:


Removal

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

If the security light is on with the key in the ON position, the pellet on the key is NOT being read correctly. Could be oxidation on the pellet or on the fine wire inside the key cylinder that reads the key or could be damage to the fine wire in the key cylinder.

If you have a backup key you can try that. Or purchase an aerolsol container of electrical contact cleaner Parts store or Radio Shack for certain. Spray some in the key cylinder then insert and remove the key 15 or 20 times wiping the key on a soft lint free cloth. Repeat if needed.

If that doesn't do it you are looking at a new key cylinder or a bypass of the VAT's system.


You can also jumper the TDR relay in the passenger foot well above the BCM.

Originally Posted by joraeperkins

Thank you so much. I was going to pull the codes, but then I thought the new battery had resolved the issue.
It is an automatic.
The security light did not come on the last time we started the car. took her for a short drive... security light did not come on... she started right up.