One Bad F55 Shock - Three Good. Do I replace only one?
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
One Bad F55 Shock - Three Good. Do I replace only one?
Greetings, all,
I've got a bad right rear F55 shock -- a definite leaker. I have my 2003 50th Annie convertible up on jack stands, and removed both rear shocks. The bad one is definitely trashed; you can barely compress it, and it was filthy with new and old oil.
The other shock still looks fine. Underneath the boot, the piston is clean, there is no oil or grease, and just a little bit of dust on the inside of the boot.
I also inspected the 2 front shocks, without removing them. Both still look good, too.
Some car history:
The car is 11 years old, and only has 38,000 mi. I'm the 2nd owner and bought it when it had 21,000 miles. It's not my daily driver. I also don't race or abuse the car. I like to drive it in the Texas Hill Country on winding roads where its great handling makes it fun to drive. I don't recall hitting any pot holes crazy hard (although our urban roads in San Antonio really suck).
So, the car is not abused in any way. Conversely, could this leaking shock have been from a LACK of driving?
Given the car's history, and the shocks age and mileage, should I:
A.) Just replace the bad right rear, and re-install the left rear?
B.) Replace the bad right rear and the good left rear (the theory being that you need to replace in pairs -- but I don't really know if you have to or not).
C.) Replace all 4 because once one goes, the others are not far behind.
BTW, I do plan to replace with new F55's to keep it original and avoid having to re-program the car.
Any thoughts or opinions or experiences are much appreciated !
Thanks !
U
I've got a bad right rear F55 shock -- a definite leaker. I have my 2003 50th Annie convertible up on jack stands, and removed both rear shocks. The bad one is definitely trashed; you can barely compress it, and it was filthy with new and old oil.
The other shock still looks fine. Underneath the boot, the piston is clean, there is no oil or grease, and just a little bit of dust on the inside of the boot.
I also inspected the 2 front shocks, without removing them. Both still look good, too.
Some car history:
The car is 11 years old, and only has 38,000 mi. I'm the 2nd owner and bought it when it had 21,000 miles. It's not my daily driver. I also don't race or abuse the car. I like to drive it in the Texas Hill Country on winding roads where its great handling makes it fun to drive. I don't recall hitting any pot holes crazy hard (although our urban roads in San Antonio really suck).
So, the car is not abused in any way. Conversely, could this leaking shock have been from a LACK of driving?
Given the car's history, and the shocks age and mileage, should I:
A.) Just replace the bad right rear, and re-install the left rear?
B.) Replace the bad right rear and the good left rear (the theory being that you need to replace in pairs -- but I don't really know if you have to or not).
C.) Replace all 4 because once one goes, the others are not far behind.
BTW, I do plan to replace with new F55's to keep it original and avoid having to re-program the car.
Any thoughts or opinions or experiences are much appreciated !
Thanks !
U
#5
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses, all.
Let's narrow this down a bit. I like the performance and ride of my factory equipment F55 shocks, so I do intend on replacing in-kind.
Yep, I know they're ridiculously expensive, but that's not an issue for me. The wife says I'm ridiculous and expensive, anyway.
BTW, I can get new F55 rears for $488.23 at gmpartsdirect.com, and for $633.76 at gmpartshouse.com.
I've convinced myself NOT to replace the 2 good fronts, as it it is not all that difficult to jack up the car and remove the shocks, so I can do that in the future, if needed.
So, I've narrowed it down to:
A) Replace only the bad right rear
B) Replace both the back shocks in a pair (and either keep or sell the older good one.)
Smoken1 responded to replace the pair, (thanx, Smoken) and that was my first thought, too, but if anyone has comments about long term reliability history of these F55's, I'd like to hear them. I'm a big believer of "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It", and would tend to leave the left rear shock on there, but if the new ones perform "differently" than the old ones, then replacement in pairs makes sense.
Thanks again, gang!
Unobtanium
Let's narrow this down a bit. I like the performance and ride of my factory equipment F55 shocks, so I do intend on replacing in-kind.
Yep, I know they're ridiculously expensive, but that's not an issue for me. The wife says I'm ridiculous and expensive, anyway.
BTW, I can get new F55 rears for $488.23 at gmpartsdirect.com, and for $633.76 at gmpartshouse.com.
I've convinced myself NOT to replace the 2 good fronts, as it it is not all that difficult to jack up the car and remove the shocks, so I can do that in the future, if needed.
So, I've narrowed it down to:
A) Replace only the bad right rear
B) Replace both the back shocks in a pair (and either keep or sell the older good one.)
Smoken1 responded to replace the pair, (thanx, Smoken) and that was my first thought, too, but if anyone has comments about long term reliability history of these F55's, I'd like to hear them. I'm a big believer of "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It", and would tend to leave the left rear shock on there, but if the new ones perform "differently" than the old ones, then replacement in pairs makes sense.
Thanks again, gang!
Unobtanium
#6
Race Director
judgement call. back when i worked in a shop. if a car came in with one leaking shock it left with one new shock unless the customer wanted both or all 4 repaired
#7
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Ooops....sorry. Just noticed that 8Vette7 also advised to replace both, if I'm going to stay with the F55's.
So we got 2 "votes" for replacing the pair, plus my original gut feel to do the same.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks again !
Un-Ob
So we got 2 "votes" for replacing the pair, plus my original gut feel to do the same.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks again !
Un-Ob
#8
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Now we've got one vote for just replacing the bad one.
Decisions, decisions.
BTW, this was my first intensive weekend with my car up on jack stands since I've owned it. I used the Corvette Forum to build my wooden ramps and load lifting crossbeams, and also saw the procedure to remove shocks. All of this really made the job a lot easier.
I just hope someday I can contribute back to the Forum with as much as I've learned !!
#9
Burning Brakes
I would think the MagneRide shocks would be fairly resilient if there are no leaks. If i had them, I'd probably just replace them both, but keep the good one on the shelf.
#10
Race Director
Thanks Racebum! Appreciate the response.
Now we've got one vote for just replacing the bad one.
Decisions, decisions.
BTW, this was my first intensive weekend with my car up on jack stands since I've owned it. I used the Corvette Forum to build my wooden ramps and load lifting crossbeams, and also saw the procedure to remove shocks. All of this really made the job a lot easier.
I just hope someday I can contribute back to the Forum with as much as I've learned !!
Now we've got one vote for just replacing the bad one.
Decisions, decisions.
BTW, this was my first intensive weekend with my car up on jack stands since I've owned it. I used the Corvette Forum to build my wooden ramps and load lifting crossbeams, and also saw the procedure to remove shocks. All of this really made the job a lot easier.
I just hope someday I can contribute back to the Forum with as much as I've learned !!
i'm just saying in most auto repair environments replacing one is very common
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
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Consider replacing shocks like you do tires.
One rear worn/damaged? Replace both.
All four 10 years old with 38k miles? Replace all four.
Enjoy your new found ride
One rear worn/damaged? Replace both.
All four 10 years old with 38k miles? Replace all four.
Enjoy your new found ride
#14
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the helpful responses. I've decided to buy 2 new F55 shocks for the rear, and keep the old good one "just in case".
Once I get them in hand and replace them, I'll give you a report on how they work.
As I removed the right rear, the electrical connector at the top of the shock also was cracked and the plastic was quite brittle, so I'm replacing that component too. The grainyness (graininess?) of the fracture surface makes this look like a particulate-reinforced plastic. They often use tiny silica ("industrial sand") particles to strengthen injection molded plastics.
You'll see the fractures from 6:30 to 8:30, and from 10:30 to 12, plus a single crack at 4:00. I guess the metal spring clip held the piece to the top of topof the shock.
I'm a materials engineer, and you wouldn't think this plastic would embrittle so badly, since it's shielded from the sun and UV rays, and here in Texas has never seen salt or road chemicals of any kind. Sheesh.
Happy Labor Day to all !
UnOb
Thanks for all the helpful responses. I've decided to buy 2 new F55 shocks for the rear, and keep the old good one "just in case".
Once I get them in hand and replace them, I'll give you a report on how they work.
As I removed the right rear, the electrical connector at the top of the shock also was cracked and the plastic was quite brittle, so I'm replacing that component too. The grainyness (graininess?) of the fracture surface makes this look like a particulate-reinforced plastic. They often use tiny silica ("industrial sand") particles to strengthen injection molded plastics.
You'll see the fractures from 6:30 to 8:30, and from 10:30 to 12, plus a single crack at 4:00. I guess the metal spring clip held the piece to the top of topof the shock.
I'm a materials engineer, and you wouldn't think this plastic would embrittle so badly, since it's shielded from the sun and UV rays, and here in Texas has never seen salt or road chemicals of any kind. Sheesh.
Happy Labor Day to all !
UnOb
#16
Race Director
Unless you can find someone with still good used F55 shocks it is NOT going to be cheap. Only available from a stealership or GM parts supplier. NO aftermarket for the F55's. From a Stealership you are going to pay more than $1000 per shock. Last time I checked GM Parts House has them for something over $600 per shock..
I also suggest that you replace both backs if you are going to stay with the F55 setup..... If you can find someone with a Tech II it would be MUCH less expensive to get rid of all 4 F55's and go with a conventional shocks. Can't just remove the F55's, unless you want the max speed limited to 80 MPH by the computer, without deleting the F55 RPO and that requires a Tech II tool...... You can get all 4 conventional shocks for around $300 vs 1 F55 shock at over $600.....
I also suggest that you replace both backs if you are going to stay with the F55 setup..... If you can find someone with a Tech II it would be MUCH less expensive to get rid of all 4 F55's and go with a conventional shocks. Can't just remove the F55's, unless you want the max speed limited to 80 MPH by the computer, without deleting the F55 RPO and that requires a Tech II tool...... You can get all 4 conventional shocks for around $300 vs 1 F55 shock at over $600.....
#18
Racer
By your logic then all 4 shocks should be replaced. Most people would recognize that that makes no sense. Like I said before, these shocks are not being dyno matched. So you don't even know what your starting point is on the old shock or the new shock. You're just throwing money at something you know works well from the feeling the driver has. But if after replacing one bad one, you notice the other doesn't feel right either then replace the other one too.
#19
Race Director
The shocks are over a decade old. The new shock will have a higher ride height and react differently during use than a worn shock would; this is a 100% certainty so yes, you do know well enough what the starting point is. This is why you replace both of them.