97 vette problems
08-28-2014, 07:32 PM
#1
Veteran
Thread Starter
97 vette problems
I am out test driving a 97. It is in good shape however the headlights wont come up and the low coolant warning light comes on and the temp goes up to 230 while sitting. How much do you think it is to fix the headlamps and what do you think the coolant issue is.
08-28-2014, 08:50 PM
#2
Team Owner
If you turn on the a/c the fans should come on and take the temp back down. Sounds backwards, but that's the way it works. You may also have a bad relay or fuse in the fan circuit. First step would be to see if they work with the a/c on.
If neither headlight comes up, I'd suspect an electrical issue unless you can hear the drive gear trying to raise them with no movement. Do the lights come on but not raise?
If the coolant is low, it probably went somewhere and may be the issue with the temp as well. Maybe a leak. I'd do some checking before I put down my purchase money. None of that stuff SHOULD be expensive and might help you get the price down if you like the car. The exception would be if maybe a head gasket issue is causing the temp and the missing coolant. Do some testing or get some help from a knowledgeable Corvette mechanic.
If neither headlight comes up, I'd suspect an electrical issue unless you can hear the drive gear trying to raise them with no movement. Do the lights come on but not raise?
If the coolant is low, it probably went somewhere and may be the issue with the temp as well. Maybe a leak. I'd do some checking before I put down my purchase money. None of that stuff SHOULD be expensive and might help you get the price down if you like the car. The exception would be if maybe a head gasket issue is causing the temp and the missing coolant. Do some testing or get some help from a knowledgeable Corvette mechanic.
08-28-2014, 08:58 PM
#3
Headlight issue could also be the stalk on the steering column. If you can turn Twilight Sentinel ON via the Options menu on the DIC, then cover the light sensor on the dash, and the headlights pop up, then it's the stalk.
08-28-2014, 10:54 PM
#4
Veteran
Thread Starter
Well, I bought it. the coolant was full when I checked it after it was cooled off. Where is the expansion tank on this one. I am used to my 72 where I just mounted it out in the open. The a/c compressor needs replaced. It leaks after being charged. the coolant looked redish orange, hard to tell in the dark by flashlight. I will be able to tell more tomorrow in the daylight. As far as the headlights. I think its a connection or a fuse. Are the headlight on the same circuit as the driver visor? The visor is missing and the two wires from it were touching. I got a really good deal on it as I plan to make this my driver and save the miles off my 72 conv.
08-29-2014, 08:55 AM
#5
Veteran
Thread Starter
There is one fuse for each headlight motor. Would be strange to have both blown at the same time. Right is fuse 3 and left is fuse 4 in the engine compartment fuse box. There is, however, a commonality in the headlight control module and that is know to fail. It is located under the passenger side headlight. One module for both motors. Not inexpensive to replace. Many go with a known good used replacement because of the cost of new. As mentioned above, the problem might also be the multi-function switch. Those are also problematic on the C5. But there are usually other symptoms when those act up. Things like no tail lights but signals do work or no dash lights etc.
There is a second fuse box and it is located in the passenger foot well behind the toe kick. The fuse for the vanity mirror lights, glove box light, interior mirror lights, and under hood light is fuse # 2 and relay 37.
This info is in the owners manual. If you don't have one, you can download one free at this sight:
www.gmpartshouse.com
Go to Downloads and select your year. Fuse box layouts are at the back of the manual.
If you were able to check the color of the coolant then you have found the surge tank already. The tank is plastic and the nipples to which the various hoses connect are known to crack and leak right where the nipple attaches to the tank. Cannot be repaired for any long term. Replacement is available on Amazon for about $60. Make sure you get the tank for the 97 and 98. Those had a coolant level sensor in the bottom of the tank. Wire connects to the sensor. Later year cars did not have the level sensor. You want the tank with the sensor unless you don't mind the constant low coolant light.
There is a second fuse box and it is located in the passenger foot well behind the toe kick. The fuse for the vanity mirror lights, glove box light, interior mirror lights, and under hood light is fuse # 2 and relay 37.
This info is in the owners manual. If you don't have one, you can download one free at this sight:
www.gmpartshouse.com
Go to Downloads and select your year. Fuse box layouts are at the back of the manual.
If you were able to check the color of the coolant then you have found the surge tank already. The tank is plastic and the nipples to which the various hoses connect are known to crack and leak right where the nipple attaches to the tank. Cannot be repaired for any long term. Replacement is available on Amazon for about $60. Make sure you get the tank for the 97 and 98. Those had a coolant level sensor in the bottom of the tank. Wire connects to the sensor. Later year cars did not have the level sensor. You want the tank with the sensor unless you don't mind the constant low coolant light.
08-29-2014, 12:43 PM
#7
Veteran
Thread Starter
Im an idiot, I was just impatient. it just felt like it was spinning and going no where, so I started to lift up on them manually and then they caught. So now I have them up but the beams are not cmoing on. I replaced the 20a circuit breaker with a 20a fuse and they beams still dont come on. I also put them down and tried with the new fuse and no luck so I had to crank them back up. Is there another place other then the #52 maxi breaker to check for common power between l and r? All my other lights work fine. I cant pass the vehicle inspection without headlights to get the title.
Last edited by King Lear; 08-29-2014 at 12:45 PM.
08-29-2014, 01:04 PM
#8
Veteran
Thread Starter
#52 maxi breaker is for anti-lock brakes and NOT the headlights. Download the owners manual from the link above to know what fuses are for what function... 
If the headlights are stock there are several fuses for each side.
In the engine compartment fuse box fuses 8 and 9 are the right low beam and right high beam. 10 and 12 are left side low beam and high beam.
If they have been converted to HID or some other aftermarket product, it's anyone guess....
If the headlights are stock there are several fuses for each side.
In the engine compartment fuse box fuses 8 and 9 are the right low beam and right high beam. 10 and 12 are left side low beam and high beam.
If they have been converted to HID or some other aftermarket product, it's anyone guess....
In my owners manual that is for the starter.
08-29-2014, 08:07 PM
#10
Veteran
Thread Starter
Thanks, I will look over it all. Now after taking all the fuses out and cleaning them the headlamps now come up like they are supposed to but the high and low beams do not work unless I pull the hlp/ts lever toward the driver and then the high beams will stay on as long as I hold the lever back. as soon as I let go of the lever the shut off. Also the driver side headlamp when it goes down the gears keep spinning in the motor for 5 or 6 seconds then quit. So at least I'm kind of half way there. why just cleaning fuses would make it work halfway is beyond me. I have been to autozone and pep boys trying to get a book for the c5 but only found 3's and 4's.
08-29-2014, 10:03 PM
#11
Veteran
Thread Starter
Symptoms point more and more to the multi function stalk...... Using the flash to pass feature and the lights come on says there is NOT a problem with the wiring and fuses. About the only thing left is the MFS..
Motors continuing to run after the doors are closed indicates that the stops for the headlights are well worn. Replacements can be had HERE:
http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=309
For what it's worth I would not use a Hanes or other manual of that type for any detail trouble shooting. High level might be OK. There were differences in the C5's across the years and those may not be well documented in that type of manual. I speak NOT from experience with them for C5's but for other auto's I have owned over the years. If you do your own service it will pay to find some used 97-98 shop manuals. JMHO
Motors continuing to run after the doors are closed indicates that the stops for the headlights are well worn. Replacements can be had HERE:
http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=309
For what it's worth I would not use a Hanes or other manual of that type for any detail trouble shooting. High level might be OK. There were differences in the C5's across the years and those may not be well documented in that type of manual. I speak NOT from experience with them for C5's but for other auto's I have owned over the years. If you do your own service it will pay to find some used 97-98 shop manuals. JMHO
the rpm drops a little and the radio lights dim. I am pulling 13.9v on the battery with the car running and 12.4v to 12.6v with the ignition off. They did replace the ignition switch for him. My bet is they did some ha work and didn't put it back together right. If I cant find anything there I will take the passenger light out and try to clean the switch. i read somewhere on here a guy took it to gm and they wanted 700 to fix it, he took the switch out and cleaned the terminals
put it back in worked perfectly fine. I wish I could still find that post
08-30-2014, 08:27 AM
#12
Veteran
Thread Starter
Here are a couple of links about grounds, where they are located and what is grounded at each point that may help you out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html Post #1
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html Post #1
08-31-2014, 03:13 AM
#13
Veteran
Thread Starter
Problem solved, I installed a new gear in the driver side motor and cleaned all the connections, put in an Optima yellow top battery, everything now works light wise with no gear grinding sounds anymore. Thanks everyone!
08-31-2014, 11:21 AM
#14
"My Dad's a TV Repairman"
Should be a lot of fun to get back to the way she should be. BTW, is that a Z06 badge the PO put on fender?
08-31-2014, 11:39 AM
#15
Veteran
Thread Starter
lol, yes. Lol, I am afraid to take it off since it has been on at least 5 years and the car has not been garage kept. I am open to any ideas on a replacement badge. Like a set of c5 flags or something.