john8642

Another thing you might try is finding a specialist or machine shop that deals with broken bolts. There are ways to remove the bolts that don't involve heli-coils. Don't know wear you're located, but you can look one for by searching google for "broken bolt removal" and your city. Here's one I found in my area:
http://www.brokentap.com/

lionelhutz

Unfortunately, you're just screwing yourself by drilling and tapping to a random size of thread. The starter pretty much requires that 10mm bolt with the knurled shank so you need to fit it and not some other random bolt. You might get away with a standard bolt long enough to move the car but eventually the starter will move around on the block, get crooked and bend the bolts or break the starter or the block.

vettenuts

Helicoils are very easy to install. You simply tap the hole for the correct outer helicoil thread, use the tool to insert the helicoil and then break off the tang. I would get not only the correct helicoil to re-establish the original thread but also get one long enough to fully thread the length of the tab. They come in lengths measured by diameter, i.e., a 1D helicoil is one diameter long and a 2D is two diameters long. This information is available on line.

Don't skimp on this one or you will likely have bigger issues down the road. Get the correct parts, either locally or on line.

robert1989

Ok, So here's the deal.

The hole has recessed threads which are in there about 3/4 inch.

So I found a helicoil kit at autozone.

The hole isn't straight because I don't know it just isn't but it isn't slanted trough the entire hole only after the first 3/4 (figure that out)

So what I did was use washers to pull the bolt out a little.

Here is the problem that created: The bolt can't be torqued to over 10ft pounds. It just spins I assume it is spinning on the helicoil but the bolt is in there, you aren't just pulling it out.

I'm pretty sure the bolt under the most amount of torque is on the driver side.

Started it 5 times starts fine.

robert1989

Side note, Since the engine spins clockwise (to the right) the starter spins counter clockwise (to the left).

This would mean that the bolt on the driver side would have the load from the starter. If your engine spins one way the frame will twist the other so to speak. So since the starter spins to the left it will torque on the right. Since that bolt is torqued to 37ft lbs it will take the load just fine the other bolt is just responsible for keeping it in position.

robert1989

the video of this clown starting an LS1 with a small tab big tab only using the small tab.

vettenuts

You would be better off, given the current configuration, through bolting with a nut on the back that can be fully tightened. I won't go into how fastener preload works.

SG Lou

That's what I tried to tell him in an earlier post
He'd be MUCH better off then he is now !

robert1989

It is the alignment that is the concern.

SoAlVette

Starter bridge solves the problem, expensive but cheaper than pulling the engine and welding the block back together. the bridge also looks to be a permanent fix.

http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html

robert1989

Thats my last resort, thanks for the link.

Why buy the bridge if it isn't broken yet?

if it breaks I will go to that.

Also I would make that before I paid for it. The design seems way to simple.

SG Lou

And from what I saw what the asking price was....I almost had a heart attack

robert1989

He appears to be using 1/4 inch what I think is needed is 1/8th or slightly bigger. The thicker the metal the less precise you need to be when drilling the holes (you could just make them bigger if you aren't on the money). I would use 1/8th plate and cut it with a dremel wheel and use a crappy flux core to weld it together. A coat of sealer or paint (maybe rhino liner if I had it laying around) and that's it.

Has to be less than an 4x4 square piece of metal too he knows most people don't want to bother with fabrication and he is right.

IRON MAIDEN

I fail to see why a nut and bolt won't work here??? Is there no room on the other side for a nut and washer? Looks like there is, but I know it's just a pic. If there is, use a bolt with a shoulder that fits nice in the size hole you have. Or use a sleeve in the hole you have for the bolt to be centered in. That would stop any movement and I'm sure you would be able to torque it down enough.

RonSSNova

There is room and it would work. There are various small and big block Chevy starter (3/8) bolts with the knurl that just might be long enough as well.

SG Lou

That's what I have been trying to tell him !

robert1989

I have absolutely no motivation to drop the H pipe again break the drill back out and start drilling.

I might do it in due time. I have my doubts that it will ever come out.

bjones7131

I know this isn't funny at all but the way u described your fustration was to much, ie pulling sob n middle of street, to funny. I looked at doing the swap on mine and i have a pit n my shop so not an issue getting to it, but when i saw i was going to have to drop the entire exhaust system i cam to my sense and said if it ain't broke don't fix it. I hope your fix holds up. With your luck i wouldn't put those other parts on, send them back.

robert1989

The bolts on the upper part of the engine seem to be fine, Last year the water pump was replaced and I reused the bolts (big mistake because it is leaking now) I ordered new stainless ones and will feel safer torquing those.

The exhaust system, you don't need to take the entire H out all you need to do is undo the 6 bolts at the flanges and the 4 bolts on the the 2 supports, so you wont need to buy new gaskets for where the cat back section is.

3 weeks ago I pulled the H to fix an exhaust leak and I broke 4 of the 6 flange bolts. So I ended up needing to pull the exhaust manifolds which is very easy to do just slightly time consuming. The bolts all came out of the head with no problem and those are on the side. I only assume the ones on the top of the engine are fine.

lionelhutz

I wouldn't trust that fix myself. Your starter alignment won't be worth a crap. The knurled part of the bolt aligns between the starter and the block to keep it straight in line. All those washers are killing that alignment.

I broke about 3 or 4 of the flange studs so I took them all out without removing the manifolds. It was actually really easy to get them out.