Виктор Tazarov

I'm pretty new to Corvette and I'm looking to get rid of the factory cam while I swap the Intake Manifold and CIA. Are OTS Cams "worth it" in the Corvette world or is it a better idea to just shell out the couple extra $$$ for a custom Grind?

The car is being build to be a POWERFUL but well mannered N/A street car that will see both Road Course time and the occasional drag, I sit here with ready to order 3.90's, FAST LSX/R w/102mm TB, and new CAI.

Thanks For the Input

NukeC5

There are many available grinds that are proven. Should save a little money by selecting one. A always say a cam in the 224 228 range is a good street/strip cam. This will keep up low end torque and raise hp to as much as stock heads can handle. Best all rounder IMO. Of course you should still change lifters, push rods, rockers, oil pump, timing chain, and the damper while doing this. Id do heads too. But not sure if it's in the budget.

Виктор Tazarov

Good Stuff, I assumed lifters and a new "Decent Timing Chain" would arrive with the cam (gotta check while I'm picking) who are the go to CAM Companies for vettes, specifically c5z guys?

I know, I Know... Lots of Rook type Questions from the previous import guy

I didn't even think about the pump, rods, rockers, and damper though. Are these Items Prone to Failure or is just good CYA with Corvette's? As For heads not at the moment. over saved to buy the car by a few $$$$ BUT was told half the cash had to go into "Home related Items" Non the less in a yr or 2 when I'm tired of N/A the heads will swap as will a blower.

NukeC5

The damper is a serious prone to failure item and should defiantly be done. I know it's pricey, but I did an ATI and pinned the crank to never have to worry again. Oil pump is just for good measure. And why not while right in there. The chain is not as prone to failure as the damper, but is under more stress on a built engine. So I wouldn't skip it. Ls7 lifters are the known good replacement for Ls engines. The Ls2 lifter trays are usually done at the same time. Rockers have been known to come apart and drop needle bearings all over the valve train and throughout the engine. There is a trunion or fulcrum upgrade that gets rid of this potential problem. Can't remember who from. I went with all new CHE rockers that are on a bushing instead of bearings. No chance for failure. Push rods may not be necessary if you aren't changing the heads. But stronger ones may be preferred for good measure.

Look at Texas speeds website to get an idea on a lot of this stuff. You will have to hunt around to find pricing etc. You will need the wire harness adapter for the TB if you haven't already. Racetronix or Hinson carries them.

Виктор Tazarov

Wow Thanks, that's a ton of usable information! I will surely look at Texas Speed, yes Wiring harness has been acquired. You sir Clearly know your Corvettes So I Must Ask... Here is "the List", with a Quality tune 93+Torco in this great Autom weather what am I looking at? There are a few Bolt on Coyotes in the Area that need to be taken for a walk.

AHR 1 7/8 Long Tubes w/ 3" Catless X - B&B Bullets catback
228 Cam, Vararam RAI w/ Powerduct, LSX/R w/ 102mm TB and of course the 3.90's

Thanks for all the knowledge can't wait to get all of this on

NukeC5

My guess without heads is around 380whp. Know that gears make it read a little lower, but not by much.

If you plan on doing the build or even just the intake and headers yourself there are some tricks you can do to get more performance out of the stock heads. When the headers are off, feel inside the exhaust ports. You'll be surprised at the slag and chunks of metal around the ports. I was able to dremel and file out a lot of junk and semi port match the heads to the headers. This was on my stock heads before I had 243 heads professionally ported. If you mess with the intake, be sure to clean up very well.

Also, why 1-7/8 headers? They are designed for 600+whp builds when airflow is at an insane rate. 1-3/4 headers will make better low end torque on a mild built engine. Helps the velocity of the exhaust and the scavenging effect. (Even a full heads and cam job is considered a mild build on these cars).

ZZ06

Nuke is spot on the money with his info he has provided. Except, IMO, you cant go wrong with 1-7/8 headers. That has been an agrument for a few years. Most of the data i have seen only show more improvement, not a loss. I wish i had gone with them instead of the 1-3/4. For the amount of money one spends for headers on these cars, give yourself a little room to grow. It can only help not hurt. Especially when you add a nice set of heads, ie. Trick Flow or AFR. I have a 418ci LS3 waiting to go under the hood and i wish i had bought the 1-7/8 size years ago when i first bought headers. Im not about to spend another 2g's tho. Just gona suck it up and hope for 500rw with the 1-3/4's.

zeevette

Well, I'm at 643 with 1-3/4 LGs. The OP talked about supercharging in a couple of years, so with this in mind; I would advise choosing a cam that's optimized for SC, and save the money on heads for the SC kit. A couple of pounds of boost will be more effective, and cheaper, than nice Trickflow heads. You'll need a clutch, too. You don't say if you're A/T, or M/T, so your gear choice might not be optimal after the SC.