Noise from the left rear
09-21-2014, 09:35 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Noise from the left rear
I have an 01 vert 58k, developing a growling noise from the left rear,
Really noticeable at 45, less at higher speeds. All fluids changed 013.
Would it be a wheel bearing at 58k? My friend just changed his on his '98
after 250k. your thoughts, thanks
Really noticeable at 45, less at higher speeds. All fluids changed 013.
Would it be a wheel bearing at 58k? My friend just changed his on his '98
after 250k. your thoughts, thanks
09-21-2014, 10:33 AM
#2
Racer
Sounds like a bearing to me. Does it get worse when cornering to the left or right? I had the same thing happen to me at 49K. Good luck!
09-21-2014, 11:40 AM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
No, it doesn't it get worse when cornering. I thought a bearing as well, just ordered both sides from Rock Auto thought I'd replace them both. Thanks for you input.
Hope the fronts will be ok for a while longer.
10-14-2014, 10:48 PM
#6
I've been having a noise from the rear as well at 15+mph. Did the 12-6 and 9-3 push/pull checks and didn't get any play with either check.
I'm really puzzled as to what it could be.
I'm really puzzled as to what it could be.
10-15-2014, 07:48 AM
#7
Drifting
You can get bearing noise and not have excessive wear that would show up as a push-pull check. The best thing to do is to jack up the rear, get both rears off the ground, pull the wheel, pull the caliper, caliper bracket, remove the brake rotor, disconnect the wheel speed sensor, loosen the two bolts that hold the ebrake cable to the ebrake backing plate, remove the center axle nut, and the two upper control arm bolts (you won't affect alignment). then you can pull the suspension system away from the axle shaft. Then you can spin the bearing and see if it is butter smooth and quiet. If not, time to replace. You may also have to take the control arm loose, but I think you can get far enough with out. For that you will need to have a (I think it is a T45) a Torx to fit the center and an 18mm wrench. Loosen the nut support the spindle with blocks of wood and hit the nut with a plastic hammer.
When you take the suspension and pivot it about the lower ball joint, you will have to push the axle spline out of the hub. The axle will get really crooked, but that is OK.
I've replaced axle shafts at the track with this procedure, so I know it works, but I may have missed a step or two. If you do have to replace the hub bearing, there are three TORX head bolts. To do them go ahead and yank the axle shaft out and put the upper control arm back in place temporarily. Those three bolts are tight and probably a little corroded in.
Now other noise possibilities are:
chatter of the limited slip differential (only in a turn) That can mean you need more or less friction modifier in the fluid or repairs to the diff.
The spline to hub area has some rust in it (I think this is only a C6 problem, but I guess can be C5 as well) Once you get it out clean and lube the splines.
When you take the suspension and pivot it about the lower ball joint, you will have to push the axle spline out of the hub. The axle will get really crooked, but that is OK.
I've replaced axle shafts at the track with this procedure, so I know it works, but I may have missed a step or two. If you do have to replace the hub bearing, there are three TORX head bolts. To do them go ahead and yank the axle shaft out and put the upper control arm back in place temporarily. Those three bolts are tight and probably a little corroded in.
Now other noise possibilities are:
chatter of the limited slip differential (only in a turn) That can mean you need more or less friction modifier in the fluid or repairs to the diff.
The spline to hub area has some rust in it (I think this is only a C6 problem, but I guess can be C5 as well) Once you get it out clean and lube the splines.
10-15-2014, 07:55 AM
#8
Drifting
oh yea, while under there check the sway bar link nuts for loose, and also, the rubber bushings can bind the sway bar and give a clicking popping noise.
You can remove the sway bar and not affect rear alignment, but be careful removing and replacing the upper bolt so you don't strip the threads in the trans axle cross member.
If you strip those threads, you will be buying a 12x1.75 thread repair kit. but cheer up, you will have extra inserts for your unlucky friends. Be sure to buy the kit with the dedicated drill bit.
You can remove the sway bar and not affect rear alignment, but be careful removing and replacing the upper bolt so you don't strip the threads in the trans axle cross member.
If you strip those threads, you will be buying a 12x1.75 thread repair kit. but cheer up, you will have extra inserts for your unlucky friends. Be sure to buy the kit with the dedicated drill bit.
10-16-2014, 07:37 PM
#9
I have poly rear sway bar bushings so I don't think that's it.
If I were to remove all of that stuff, I may as well take the extra couple of steps and replace the bearings.
It's not that I don't want to do the work, well I really don't, but it's that living in an apartment forces me to go rent a bay on base (military) and I don't have the luxury of taking my time.
If I were to remove all of that stuff, I may as well take the extra couple of steps and replace the bearings.
It's not that I don't want to do the work, well I really don't, but it's that living in an apartment forces me to go rent a bay on base (military) and I don't have the luxury of taking my time.
10-17-2014, 07:17 AM
#10
Drifting
so exactly what is the noise and when do you hear it? Usually if it is a bearing, then it will change in pitch as the car speeds up or, if you go into a turn and load one side the noise will become louder.
Sometimes, it can be a front bearing and you think the sound comes from the rear. In the case of a front bearing, you can remove a wheel, take a pair of channel locks and compress the brake pads against the back of the caliper to keep the pads from touching the rotor and spin the rotor by hand you can then feel the bearing condition.
Other than that, since you have poly bushings, if it is a popping noise, polys need to have lots of lube, they dry out and expel grease pretty quickly and will begin to grab. They can wear as well, and really aren't a necessary option for the street.
Sometimes, it can be a front bearing and you think the sound comes from the rear. In the case of a front bearing, you can remove a wheel, take a pair of channel locks and compress the brake pads against the back of the caliper to keep the pads from touching the rotor and spin the rotor by hand you can then feel the bearing condition.
Other than that, since you have poly bushings, if it is a popping noise, polys need to have lots of lube, they dry out and expel grease pretty quickly and will begin to grab. They can wear as well, and really aren't a necessary option for the street.