Patches

If you think about the brace as a linkage, though, there really is no contiguous metal-to-metal contact that starts at the diff and ends at the crossmember. The brace does attach to the diff with two screws and there are metal sleeves inside the center bushings but, look at the pic below and you'll notice the orange torque arm is isolated from the Pfadt crossmember mount and the crossmember by the center bushings and the rubber feet. Essentially, the torque member is an extenson of the diff bit does not directly touch the crossmember.

IRON MAIDEN

My local hardware store has shims that are very similar to the ones Pfadt includes. Almost exact in fact. I plan to grab some next time I'm there just so I have them on hand when I install my mount.

wolf8218

Those?

SpeedFreak87

What does the hardware store call these shims? Are they rubber or poly and how'd you get them to stay under the end bushings besides just pressure since I'm assuming you drilled holes through them in the middle mount so they don't move there

wolf8218

The shims are metal and they are installed between the orange torsion member and the end bushings to give them a longer overall height.

Patches did something completely different, and I'm not sure how he got them to stick.

Patches

Adhesive between the shoes and shims.

IRON MAIDEN

Yes. They were very similar and would work the same. I will head over there this week and get the info. Post some pics next to what Pfadt provides.

Apocolipse

Is that harmonic weight on the diff always in contact with the rubber pad? If so, you are loosing the effectiveness of the harmonic weight since you are changing its properties by touching something else.

Patches

Barely touching but it's comming off anyway as recommended in the instructions.

SpeedFreak87

What did you put under yours patches? And did you also put something under the metal Poly mount in the middle?

Apocolipse

Ok good stuff

zeevette

I see what you're saying; you may be right. I saw it as a point of potential flexing under loads, and the steel-on-aluminum bothered me.

IRON MAIDEN

I'm assuming that because the outward pads, on the ends of the Pfadt mount, are always firmly pressed to the crossmember. With those firmly against the crossmember in such a wide position relative to the diff, seems like that would prevent the diff from ever vibrating, shaking, or whatever it does that the external OEM damper/weight would help prevent. Maybe that is why Pfadt suggests removing it during the install.
Could also be one of the reasons the instructions say to make sure the outer pads are in firm contact with the crossmember. Pretty much locks the rear of the drivetrain down to the crossmember, while still being isolated from it by the poly pads/bushings. Look at the C6, it has 2 outward mounted mounts rather than the single C5 center mount. The single center mount in rubber.... damn near just a pivot point for the back of the drivetrain!!!

Patches

High-durometer EPDM sheet about 1/8"thick. Nothing under the center mount as there is already a poly bushing in the center of the pivot. The poly bushings are relatively soft so I didn't want to add another degree of flex with a soft pad under the center mount.

SpeedFreak87

I'll have to look for this stuff when I go to order and install mine this winter

vsocks1

I removed the dampener because I read that also!

0Rob@ChampionMotors

Placing my order tomorrow.
Thanks,
Rob.

0HoosierPE

That is great Rob - THANKS for the support!

Cheers,
Jason
HPE-DTE

Bill Curlee

Patches helped me find a used PFADT Brace in the C5 Wanted/For Sale Parts Section. Thanks again!

The Brace came in like NEW condition with all the parts.

I tried to access that install instruction sheet from work and it wont open.

IRON MAIDEN

I was apprehensive about drive train removal when I replaced my clutch.

I did the job myself and had to devise a method/plan that made that as easy as possible.

Heres what I did-

Remove the intake manifold! I have a FAST 90 so clearance to the fire wall is LESS than OEM. You can damage the intake if you drop the drive train/ fire wall too far

Raise the car. I used 4 BIG jack stands.

Support the TT with a small jack.

Remove the rear cradle. Pop the CV joints from the differential.

Lower/tilt the drive train to the recommended MAX angle to gain access to the harnesses and bolts.


Remove the Differential & Transmission from the Torque Tube.

Remove the TT.

I had to remove the bell housing to do all the work to install my SPEC Twin clutch. I'm lucky that I did. My bell housing was cracked.

NOTE!! Installing the Torque Tube as a separate assembly back into the bell housing and clutch is a BREEZE! It also lessens the possibility that you will damage the clutch disk (allowing the weight of the Trans/diff/ TT to hang on the disk and bend the Hub)

Install the trans/diff on the TT.

I did this ALL myself on jack stands and didn't have ANY issues.

Just my 2 cents.

Bill

IRON MAIDEN

Thanks for the advice Bill. Curious if I need to remove the intake though. Would rather not if I don't have to. It's already coming off shortly after when I do the heads/cam/headers/ and all the other motor goodies. I have the LS6 intake I custom painted last year itching to be installed!!!
My plan was about the same as you did. Although, now I'm brainstorming again. I just bought a Kwik-Lift from forum member Kale. I'm picking it up this weekend.
Until I get the lift and figure out my plan, not sure yet. But it seems that I can use the centerbridge and lift the back end off the ramps. Hoping I can have the jack stands in the rear frame locations on the ramps. Then the rear cradle and everything can come out. But until I get the new lift, won't know it it's possible or not. I still need to pick up a trans jack and a nice creeper too!!!