Time for a new clutch??
#21
Safety Car
If you have a convertible , it was hot balanced.
I got that from info posted here, so don't bet large sums on the accuracy, as I kind of tuned out my memory once I found out about my situation, but have found all the assembly and balance specifics from kicking around here.
if it helps, I went with a McLoed RST with steel flywheel, looking for a light clutch pedal action. C6 master , don'y know why, followed the GM partshouse parts guy's suggestions.
It drives easily, nothing out of the ordinary, modulating the clutch is not a concern, engagement is easily controlled, you could slip it as long as you want.
I had the clutch assembly balanced, said by some sellers to be un needed with the build tolerances on this part (which seems to be true) ,but offered by the builder, so I got that, and the weights were transferred out from the old clutch. I might have overdone it with the balance, but at the labor rates involved, I wasn't wanting to under do it. Besides, with this kind of deal, the finer the balance, the better it runs. I hope.
I got that from info posted here, so don't bet large sums on the accuracy, as I kind of tuned out my memory once I found out about my situation, but have found all the assembly and balance specifics from kicking around here.
if it helps, I went with a McLoed RST with steel flywheel, looking for a light clutch pedal action. C6 master , don'y know why, followed the GM partshouse parts guy's suggestions.
It drives easily, nothing out of the ordinary, modulating the clutch is not a concern, engagement is easily controlled, you could slip it as long as you want.
I had the clutch assembly balanced, said by some sellers to be un needed with the build tolerances on this part (which seems to be true) ,but offered by the builder, so I got that, and the weights were transferred out from the old clutch. I might have overdone it with the balance, but at the labor rates involved, I wasn't wanting to under do it. Besides, with this kind of deal, the finer the balance, the better it runs. I hope.
#22
Racer
If you have a convertible , it was hot balanced.
This is incorrect. It has nothing to do with being a convertible. ALL MANUAL TRANSMISSION vettes were hot balanced, meaning they were ALL checked for balance using the hot balance procedure. SOME then had balance weights added in either the FW or damper. This is NOT about getting the clutch zero balanced. It is about getting the ENTIRE ENGINE ASSEMBLY zeroed to within 0.5 oz∙in. Not just the clutch, and certainly not just the FW.
I got that from info posted here, so don't bet large sums on the accuracy, as I kind of tuned out my memory once I found out about my situation, but have found all the assembly and balance specifics from kicking around here.
I hope nobody told you that, and you are just "misremembering".
if it helps, I went with a McLoed RST with steel flywheel, looking for a light clutch pedal action. C6 master , don'y know why, followed the GM partshouse parts guy's suggestions.
It drives easily, nothing out of the ordinary, modulating the clutch is not a concern, engagement is easily controlled, you could slip it as long as you want.
I had the clutch assembly balanced, said by some sellers to be un needed with the build tolerances on this part
It IS unnecessary, because this IS NOT ABOUT zero balancing a clutch.
(which seems to be true) ,but offered by the builder, so I got that, and the weights were transferred out from the old clutch.
Again, unnecessary, because this DOES NOT replicate the original balance setup. IF GM had also zero balanced the clutch assembly ALONE before installing on the engine and hot balancing, then yes, this would be accurate. But that is not how GM does it.
I might have overdone it with the balance, but at the labor rates involved, I wasn't wanting to under do it. Besides, with this kind of deal, the finer the balance, the better it runs. I hope.
Absolutely, the finer the total overall engine assembly balance is, the better and smoother it will run. GM already did this with the hot balance. Doing ANYTHING other than matching your factory balance is just guessing.
This is incorrect. It has nothing to do with being a convertible. ALL MANUAL TRANSMISSION vettes were hot balanced, meaning they were ALL checked for balance using the hot balance procedure. SOME then had balance weights added in either the FW or damper. This is NOT about getting the clutch zero balanced. It is about getting the ENTIRE ENGINE ASSEMBLY zeroed to within 0.5 oz∙in. Not just the clutch, and certainly not just the FW.
I got that from info posted here, so don't bet large sums on the accuracy, as I kind of tuned out my memory once I found out about my situation, but have found all the assembly and balance specifics from kicking around here.
I hope nobody told you that, and you are just "misremembering".
if it helps, I went with a McLoed RST with steel flywheel, looking for a light clutch pedal action. C6 master , don'y know why, followed the GM partshouse parts guy's suggestions.
It drives easily, nothing out of the ordinary, modulating the clutch is not a concern, engagement is easily controlled, you could slip it as long as you want.
I had the clutch assembly balanced, said by some sellers to be un needed with the build tolerances on this part
It IS unnecessary, because this IS NOT ABOUT zero balancing a clutch.
(which seems to be true) ,but offered by the builder, so I got that, and the weights were transferred out from the old clutch.
Again, unnecessary, because this DOES NOT replicate the original balance setup. IF GM had also zero balanced the clutch assembly ALONE before installing on the engine and hot balancing, then yes, this would be accurate. But that is not how GM does it.
I might have overdone it with the balance, but at the labor rates involved, I wasn't wanting to under do it. Besides, with this kind of deal, the finer the balance, the better it runs. I hope.
Absolutely, the finer the total overall engine assembly balance is, the better and smoother it will run. GM already did this with the hot balance. Doing ANYTHING other than matching your factory balance is just guessing.
Last edited by thbwlZ; 11-01-2014 at 10:56 AM.
#23
Race Director
You did everything pretty close, by at least transferring the weights, but it is most likely not the same as what it was stock. FW and PP individual balance tolerances vary enough to make just transferring weights not the ideal method. As long as you are running smooth and you can't feel any new vibrations, you are good. This is only about minimizing NVH/vibrations. The engine is fine with just a closely zero balanced clutch on it.
if the OE clutch was 10g out at 3 oclock and the new clutch is 10g out at 7oclock adding the weights isn't going to have the same effect and may make it worse
#24
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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I've actually never read of a case where a clutch that was confirmed to be very close to zero balanced still vibrated. I actually suspect the "hot" balance was done to correct a factory clutch too far out of balance.
People who do bother to balance a replacement either install the clutch and have a vibration then do it again match balancing to the original or they just match to the original right from the start. I have read of a few cases where the person with a vibration found the replacement clutch was way out of balance.
I have yet to read of a case where the replacement clutch vibrated even though the balance of the replacement was confirmed to be very close to zero balance.
People who do bother to balance a replacement either install the clutch and have a vibration then do it again match balancing to the original or they just match to the original right from the start. I have read of a few cases where the person with a vibration found the replacement clutch was way out of balance.
I have yet to read of a case where the replacement clutch vibrated even though the balance of the replacement was confirmed to be very close to zero balance.
#25
Racer
I've actually never read of a case where a clutch that was confirmed to be very close to zero balanced still vibrated.
I have read of several, and actually talked to people in that very situation. Zero balanced clutches can cause new vibrations to be felt, that is a fact. Because internal engine imbalances can be outside of 0.5 oz∙in, that is also a fact. It is fine for the engine operation, but not good for NVH. Fact.
I actually suspect the "hot" balance was done to correct a factory clutch too far out of balance.
The beauty of actually researching the issue with people who are actually involved in doing the hot balance procedure, along with the engineers who are involved with it, means you can eliminate any "suspecting" as to why the procedure is done. There's no need to guess at this. It is not a closely guarded secret. It is to bring the entire engine assembly balance to within 0.5 oz∙in at BOTH PLANES, which is why sometimes weights are added to the damper also. This is a fact and I have tried my best to provide links to actual articles that show this process, so it is not just someone's word about it. If you think the hot balance is done to balance a clutch, ask yourself, why in the hell would they add weights to the damper too? If you answer, well they are also correcting for an unbalanced damper... Then ask yourself why don't they do that for the other engines, the ones being used in automatic transmission vettes, or Fbodies with LS engines in it. The answer is because this is an ENGINE fine tune balance, NOT a clutch balance. If they wanted to balance a clutch, they would use the inexpensive method, you know, the way an actual machine shop uses to balance a clutch. They would not develop a completely new piece of machinery, to house the entire engine, hook it up with accelerometers, run the engine on natural gas, and use the machine to figure out where to put weights on a flywheel, OH AND THE DAMPER TOO. The hot balance procedure is not a clutch balancing tool. Think about it. Think about the steps and order of operations in the hot balance process.
People who do bother to balance a replacement either install the clutch and have a vibration then do it again match balancing to the original or they just match to the original right from the start. I have read of a few cases where the person with a vibration found the replacement clutch was way out of balance.
The combinations and possibilities are INFINITE.
I have yet to read of a case where the replacement clutch vibrated even though the balance of the replacement was confirmed to be very close to zero balance.
As mentioned above, I have read of MANY cases and talked to MANY others where a zero balanced clutch caused new vibrations. MANY. This goes back to 1997 and continues to 2013. I have also said over and over again, that if you "cop out" and put a zero balance clutch in, or just out of the box, you most likely won't be adversely effecting the engine's balance as it relates to reliable operation. HOWEVER, due to NVH considerations, you MAY feel new vibrations. Just like if you were to change to stiffer engine mounts, trans mounts, prop shaft couplers... All of those can result in new vibrations, even though you didn't change a dang thing in the engine. This is the same thing. This is an NVH issue. Only.
I have read of several, and actually talked to people in that very situation. Zero balanced clutches can cause new vibrations to be felt, that is a fact. Because internal engine imbalances can be outside of 0.5 oz∙in, that is also a fact. It is fine for the engine operation, but not good for NVH. Fact.
I actually suspect the "hot" balance was done to correct a factory clutch too far out of balance.
The beauty of actually researching the issue with people who are actually involved in doing the hot balance procedure, along with the engineers who are involved with it, means you can eliminate any "suspecting" as to why the procedure is done. There's no need to guess at this. It is not a closely guarded secret. It is to bring the entire engine assembly balance to within 0.5 oz∙in at BOTH PLANES, which is why sometimes weights are added to the damper also. This is a fact and I have tried my best to provide links to actual articles that show this process, so it is not just someone's word about it. If you think the hot balance is done to balance a clutch, ask yourself, why in the hell would they add weights to the damper too? If you answer, well they are also correcting for an unbalanced damper... Then ask yourself why don't they do that for the other engines, the ones being used in automatic transmission vettes, or Fbodies with LS engines in it. The answer is because this is an ENGINE fine tune balance, NOT a clutch balance. If they wanted to balance a clutch, they would use the inexpensive method, you know, the way an actual machine shop uses to balance a clutch. They would not develop a completely new piece of machinery, to house the entire engine, hook it up with accelerometers, run the engine on natural gas, and use the machine to figure out where to put weights on a flywheel, OH AND THE DAMPER TOO. The hot balance procedure is not a clutch balancing tool. Think about it. Think about the steps and order of operations in the hot balance process.
People who do bother to balance a replacement either install the clutch and have a vibration then do it again match balancing to the original or they just match to the original right from the start. I have read of a few cases where the person with a vibration found the replacement clutch was way out of balance.
The combinations and possibilities are INFINITE.
I have yet to read of a case where the replacement clutch vibrated even though the balance of the replacement was confirmed to be very close to zero balance.
As mentioned above, I have read of MANY cases and talked to MANY others where a zero balanced clutch caused new vibrations. MANY. This goes back to 1997 and continues to 2013. I have also said over and over again, that if you "cop out" and put a zero balance clutch in, or just out of the box, you most likely won't be adversely effecting the engine's balance as it relates to reliable operation. HOWEVER, due to NVH considerations, you MAY feel new vibrations. Just like if you were to change to stiffer engine mounts, trans mounts, prop shaft couplers... All of those can result in new vibrations, even though you didn't change a dang thing in the engine. This is the same thing. This is an NVH issue. Only.
So, I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm only trying to correct information when I see it, and know for a fact that it is incorrect.
RANT OVER
And lionelhutz is one of the most knowledgeable and accurate contributors on this site, that I have seen, so this is not a criticism of his post.
#26
Racer
Exactly! Transferring weights was not the "be all end all", for those exact reasons. Flywheels and Pressure Plates have THEIR OWN IMBALANCES and balance tolerances. Combinations are infinite.
#27
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
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thbwlZ - I have read a number of threads where clutches that are supposed to be zero balanced still vibrated, but in all of those cases the clutch was never put on a balancing machine before installation. Just saying what I have read mostly on this forum.
I do agree that the engine could have had some imbalance that the procedure corrected.
I do agree that the engine could have had some imbalance that the procedure corrected.
#28
Race Director
thbwlZ - I have read a number of threads where clutches that are supposed to be zero balanced still vibrated, but in all of those cases the clutch was never put on a balancing machine before installation. Just saying what I have read mostly on this forum.
I do agree that the engine could have had some imbalance that the procedure corrected.
I do agree that the engine could have had some imbalance that the procedure corrected.
#29
Racer
thbwlZ - I have read a number of threads where clutches that are supposed to be zero balanced still vibrated, but in all of those cases the clutch was never put on a balancing machine before installation. Just saying what I have read mostly on this forum.
I do agree that the engine could have had some imbalance that the procedure corrected.
I do agree that the engine could have had some imbalance that the procedure corrected.
Many people can just install a zero balanced unit, or a unit right out of the box and be fine, with no vibrations. Or they might have slight vibrations, but the engine is still fine. But there are also many that will vibrate like crazy that way. It is such a PIA to pull the drivetrain, and very expensive unless you do it yourself, that changing a clutch multiple times to chase vibrations is just crazy. It so relatively cheap to have your replacement unit matched to your stock unit, zeroed, slightly out from zero, or more out from zero, whatever it happens to be, that I just think it's well worth the effort to have them matched. Anything else is a guess. If it didn't vibrate before, it won't vibrate afterwards, if you replace the clutch with something that matches it with respect to balance. I hope no one can disagree with that. But, as I'm also finding out, finding a machine shop that can actually match a balance setup instead of just zeroing everything, is more difficult than it should be. It's kind of like a cashier that relies completely on the computer screen to tell you your change, and you screw them up when giving them additional money or something to round it off. They can't do the math! If the computer can't tell them, they don't know how to do it. Zero balancing a rotating component means getting its CG to be on the axis of rotation. All the balancing equipment is setup to do that. MATCHING an imbalance situation, purposefully, means moving the CG to wherever it needs to be to create the imbalance. They would need to do that vector math separately, and it seems that is too difficult for many shops. Oh well!
In the end, I'm sure people will just continue to do things the way they have for the last 17 years with these things, and just pop in a clutch out of the box. Many will be fine, and some will drive themselves crazy trying to chase new vibrations. If its done at a dealership, they will just keep popping in new clutches until one "magically" works. That's cool.
Last edited by thbwlZ; 11-02-2014 at 12:44 PM.
#30
Burning Brakes
If you're not doing the work yourself, it seems like you're at the mercy of whatever shop you use. I've been shopping around for labor estimates, and in SoCal they run between $900-$1200. Can I expect a shop to do the extra work to match the balance? I don't want to have to do this twice.
#31
Racer
If you're not doing the work yourself, it seems like you're at the mercy of whatever shop you use. I've been shopping around for labor estimates, and in SoCal they run between $900-$1200. Can I expect a shop to do the extra work to match the balance? I don't want to have to do this twice.
Unfortunately, about the only way to go about it ONCE, is to do the labor of the clutch swap yourself. Take your stock FW/PP to a competent machine shop that can balance clutches, and ask them to MATCH your replacement combo to your original combo. If they say they can't do that, they can only zero them, then that's not good enough. Don't use them. If they insist that LS engines are internally balanced (which they are, by design) and therefore only require a zero balanced clutch assembly (which they often don't), then they don't understand the issue here. Good luck explaining it to them. About the only chance you have of getting them to understand is to just say you have an externally balanced engine and you would like for your entire clutch assembly (FW and PP) to match your original clutch assembly (FW and PP). Then maybe they will do that.
If you are doing it at a dealership, they will most likely NOT do any of this, and will not get it either. However, if you do it at a dealership, the work will be warrantied, and if it vibrates when done, they will have to do it again. They will keep swapping out new clutch assemblies until one doesn't vibrate. And if that doesn't happen, and you complain enough, they will maybe send out field engineers to do an in car balance. This has happened MANY MORE times than you would believe is possible. It's really such a simple matter. Make your replacement clutch the same as what you are replacing. If it didn't vibrate before because of balance, it won't vibrate afterwards because of balance. But I'm finding most people just don't get it.
Ask around some of the shops you have been asking for quotes. Ask them if they are familiar with the match balancing issue. Unfortunately, most will say "no".
#32
Burning Brakes
Unfortunately, you probably will not find a shop that is even aware of the hot balance procedure done at the factory. They won't know what you are talking about. They will not believe that some assemblies are counterbalanced on purpose. They will most likely insist that you need to just install a zero balanced clutch. They will tell you to just install it out of the box. If you get a "good one" they may tell you to go ahead and have the new one checked, and further zero balanced, which completely misses the point.
Unfortunately, about the only way to go about it ONCE, is to do the labor of the clutch swap yourself. Take your stock FW/PP to a competent machine shop that can balance clutches, and ask them to MATCH your replacement combo to your original combo. If they say they can't do that, they can only zero them, then that's not good enough. Don't use them. If they insist that LS engines are internally balanced (which they are, by design) and therefore only require a zero balanced clutch assembly (which they often don't), then they don't understand the issue here. Good luck explaining it to them. About the only chance you have of getting them to understand is to just say you have an externally balanced engine and you would like for your entire clutch assembly (FW and PP) to match your original clutch assembly (FW and PP). Then maybe they will do that.
If you are doing it at a dealership, they will most likely NOT do any of this, and will not get it either. However, if you do it at a dealership, the work will be warrantied, and if it vibrates when done, they will have to do it again. They will keep swapping out new clutch assemblies until one doesn't vibrate. And if that doesn't happen, and you complain enough, they will maybe send out field engineers to do an in car balance. This has happened MANY MORE times than you would believe is possible. It's really such a simple matter. Make your replacement clutch the same as what you are replacing. If it didn't vibrate before because of balance, it won't vibrate afterwards because of balance. But I'm finding most people just don't get it.
Ask around some of the shops you have been asking for quotes. Ask them if they are familiar with the match balancing issue. Unfortunately, most will say "no".
Unfortunately, about the only way to go about it ONCE, is to do the labor of the clutch swap yourself. Take your stock FW/PP to a competent machine shop that can balance clutches, and ask them to MATCH your replacement combo to your original combo. If they say they can't do that, they can only zero them, then that's not good enough. Don't use them. If they insist that LS engines are internally balanced (which they are, by design) and therefore only require a zero balanced clutch assembly (which they often don't), then they don't understand the issue here. Good luck explaining it to them. About the only chance you have of getting them to understand is to just say you have an externally balanced engine and you would like for your entire clutch assembly (FW and PP) to match your original clutch assembly (FW and PP). Then maybe they will do that.
If you are doing it at a dealership, they will most likely NOT do any of this, and will not get it either. However, if you do it at a dealership, the work will be warrantied, and if it vibrates when done, they will have to do it again. They will keep swapping out new clutch assemblies until one doesn't vibrate. And if that doesn't happen, and you complain enough, they will maybe send out field engineers to do an in car balance. This has happened MANY MORE times than you would believe is possible. It's really such a simple matter. Make your replacement clutch the same as what you are replacing. If it didn't vibrate before because of balance, it won't vibrate afterwards because of balance. But I'm finding most people just don't get it.
Ask around some of the shops you have been asking for quotes. Ask them if they are familiar with the match balancing issue. Unfortunately, most will say "no".
#34
Burning Brakes
#35
Racer
Good luck!