Cant get into first or reverse, clutch problem
#21
Drifting
I'm having same issue, I was given the advice of gravity bleeding it, just cracking open the blessed and leaving the resouvire open and let it drip over night in hopes that an air bubble will move itself out
#23
Drifting
Not saying you are wrong, but I was given the advice that it would only leave a few droplets, I could be wrong though. I am having the same issue in my vette, rechecking measurements to make sure all is inline and if all is matched up and the clutch still does it I'm putting a new clutch in
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Not saying you are wrong, but I was given the advice that it would only leave a few droplets, I could be wrong though. I am having the same issue in my vette, rechecking measurements to make sure all is inline and if all is matched up and the clutch still does it I'm putting a new clutch in
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Just checked the measurements, what I came up with was .250 and tick performance recommends .125-.200 so I'm gonna try some shims to bring it in a little bit.
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Is it ok to fire up the car with the trans and rear end not installed? As long as everything underneath is supported I should be fine right? I don't want to reinstall everything to find out that the shims didn't help and have to rip it apart again.
#29
Racer
Should be good to go. Keep in mind that the motor mounts allow motor to move fore and aft.
#30
Not sure what this will tell you.
#31
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I did my 02 ZO6 that way to make absoluty positive that my new fly wheel was properly balanced. Just support the engine from the oil pan and spread the load with a nice piece of plywood.
New Spec Flywheel (match balanced to old one), Open Headers. Sorry for the poor picture quality and it was almost 10 PM at night.
Tap on Vid to play:
New Spec Flywheel (match balanced to old one), Open Headers. Sorry for the poor picture quality and it was almost 10 PM at night.
Tap on Vid to play:
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 12-17-2014 at 05:32 PM.
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
since replacing the slave and master every time I start the car there's a slight screech that comes for the clutch area which I believe is the clutch not being fully disengaged, so being able to start the car before putting everything back together could save me two afternoons of extra work as I will be able to tell right away if shimming the slave helped or not. At least that's my theory anyway.
#33
Racer
Thread Starter
Well I shimmed it put it back together even rebuilt the clutch master and bench bled it, still no luck with the original issue. Looks like it's time for a new clutch because I'm out of ideas.
#34
Instructor
4drturbo
I was in the same boat with my 02 Z after adding 60+ HP. When I pulled the clutch out, it still looked good. Infact, little of no wear for having 45K miles on the clock
If it were me, I would change out the master and properly bleed the entire system like explained above and see if that helps.
If not, you will need a new master with a replacement clutch anyway. No cash or time lost!
Bill
Like I originally said in October, might as well get a new clutch. Unless you have bent shift forks, or your clutch release fork is bad. (If these cars have a clutch release fork) Hopefully it is nothing internal with the transmission with the synchros, needlebearings etc.
#36
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: cinnaminson n.j.
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St. Jude Donor '14
Did you measure the gap between the disc and PP with the pedal depressed engine off?
I forget the exact spec, but I think it's about .020". If you have it, the disc should be able to rotate. The pilot bearing binding to the input shaft would be the problem.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in there and your positive all the air is out, take a look at this.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
I forget the exact spec, but I think it's about .020". If you have it, the disc should be able to rotate. The pilot bearing binding to the input shaft would be the problem.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in there and your positive all the air is out, take a look at this.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
#37
Racer
Thread Starter
Did you measure the gap between the disc and PP with the pedal depressed engine off?
I forget the exact spec, but I think it's about .020". If you have it, the disc should be able to rotate. The pilot bearing binding to the input shaft would be the problem.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in there and your positive all the air is out, take a look at this.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
I forget the exact spec, but I think it's about .020". If you have it, the disc should be able to rotate. The pilot bearing binding to the input shaft would be the problem.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in there and your positive all the air is out, take a look at this.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
#38
Drifting
I had the same thing happen a few months after I bought my 2003. I was able to put it in gear with the engine off, then start it so I could drive it up on the tow truck to the dealer for a new clutch.
#39
Racer
Thread Starter
Lol makes me feel better calling the clutch then. At least it gives me an excuse to spend money on the vette .
#40
Drifting