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Cant get into first or reverse, clutch problem

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Old 12-13-2014, 12:16 PM
  #21  
grn envy
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I'm having same issue, I was given the advice of gravity bleeding it, just cracking open the blessed and leaving the resouvire open and let it drip over night in hopes that an air bubble will move itself out
Old 12-13-2014, 01:49 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ZEDNESS
I'm having same issue, I was given the advice of gravity bleeding it, just cracking open the blessed and leaving the resouvire open and let it drip over night in hopes that an air bubble will move itself out
You could come out in the morning to an empty reservoir and a systm full of air.
Old 12-14-2014, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by martysauto
You could come out in the morning to an empty reservoir and a systm full of air.
Not saying you are wrong, but I was given the advice that it would only leave a few droplets, I could be wrong though. I am having the same issue in my vette, rechecking measurements to make sure all is inline and if all is matched up and the clutch still does it I'm putting a new clutch in
Old 12-14-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ZEDNESS
Not saying you are wrong, but I was given the advice that it would only leave a few droplets, I could be wrong though. I am having the same issue in my vette, rechecking measurements to make sure all is inline and if all is matched up and the clutch still does it I'm putting a new clutch in
I'm in the same boat if the measurements check out I'm pulling the clutch and probably putting in a mantic er2
Old 12-15-2014, 12:01 AM
  #25  
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Just checked the measurements, what I came up with was .250 and tick performance recommends .125-.200 so I'm gonna try some shims to bring it in a little bit.
Old 12-16-2014, 11:04 AM
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I had the same issue. The pilot bearing grenaded.
Old 12-16-2014, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by don37
I had the same issue. The pilot bearing grenaded.
Already checked its good, I'm at the end of my options with this car. It's gotta be shims, a defective components or the clutch is smoked.
Old 12-17-2014, 02:21 PM
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Is it ok to fire up the car with the trans and rear end not installed? As long as everything underneath is supported I should be fine right? I don't want to reinstall everything to find out that the shims didn't help and have to rip it apart again.
Old 12-17-2014, 03:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Impulsive goat
Is it ok to fire up the car with the trans and rear end not installed? As long as everything underneath is supported I should be fine right? I don't want to reinstall everything to find out that the shims didn't help and have to rip it apart again.
Should be good to go. Keep in mind that the motor mounts allow motor to move fore and aft.
Old 12-17-2014, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Impulsive goat
Is it ok to fire up the car with the trans and rear end not installed? As long as everything underneath is supported I should be fine right? I don't want to reinstall everything to find out that the shims didn't help and have to rip it apart again.
Not sure what this will tell you.
Old 12-17-2014, 05:05 PM
  #31  
Bill Curlee
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I did my 02 ZO6 that way to make absoluty positive that my new fly wheel was properly balanced. Just support the engine from the oil pan and spread the load with a nice piece of plywood.

New Spec Flywheel (match balanced to old one), Open Headers. Sorry for the poor picture quality and it was almost 10 PM at night.

Tap on Vid to play:


Last edited by Bill Curlee; 12-17-2014 at 05:32 PM.
Old 12-17-2014, 07:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
Not sure what this will tell you.
since replacing the slave and master every time I start the car there's a slight screech that comes for the clutch area which I believe is the clutch not being fully disengaged, so being able to start the car before putting everything back together could save me two afternoons of extra work as I will be able to tell right away if shimming the slave helped or not. At least that's my theory anyway.
Old 12-20-2014, 02:22 PM
  #33  
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Well I shimmed it put it back together even rebuilt the clutch master and bench bled it, still no luck with the original issue. Looks like it's time for a new clutch because I'm out of ideas.
Old 12-21-2014, 10:39 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee

4drturbo


I was in the same boat with my 02 Z after adding 60+ HP. When I pulled the clutch out, it still looked good. Infact, little of no wear for having 45K miles on the clock

If it were me, I would change out the master and properly bleed the entire system like explained above and see if that helps.

If not, you will need a new master with a replacement clutch anyway. No cash or time lost!

Bill
Good looking out on doing the master first. Always a good idea to replace the slave with the master though. And I believe the tranny pretty much has to be dropped to get to the slave. I am at 530whp on a loaded dyno. I don't believe the factory clutch is a good thing to have anyhow.

Originally Posted by Impulsive goat
Well I shimmed it put it back together even rebuilt the clutch master and bench bled it, still no luck with the original issue. Looks like it's time for a new clutch because I'm out of ideas.
Like I originally said in October, might as well get a new clutch. Unless you have bent shift forks, or your clutch release fork is bad. (If these cars have a clutch release fork) Hopefully it is nothing internal with the transmission with the synchros, needlebearings etc.
Old 12-21-2014, 10:49 AM
  #35  
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How would I know it's the transmission? When the cars off I can get into evey gear fine, but as soon as I turn it on its a no go.
Old 12-21-2014, 11:15 AM
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Did you measure the gap between the disc and PP with the pedal depressed engine off?
I forget the exact spec, but I think it's about .020". If you have it, the disc should be able to rotate. The pilot bearing binding to the input shaft would be the problem.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in there and your positive all the air is out, take a look at this.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
Old 12-21-2014, 11:28 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by martysauto
Did you measure the gap between the disc and PP with the pedal depressed engine off?
I forget the exact spec, but I think it's about .020". If you have it, the disc should be able to rotate. The pilot bearing binding to the input shaft would be the problem.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in there and your positive all the air is out, take a look at this.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
The gap between the clutch disc and flywheel? Ill give it a look. I've already shimmed it with the tick kit. My measurement is now exactly .125, before the shim it was .250". I've looked at the pilot bearing before all seemed normal, could that really cause my issue of not getting into gear?

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Old 12-21-2014, 08:38 PM
  #38  
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I had the same thing happen a few months after I bought my 2003. I was able to put it in gear with the engine off, then start it so I could drive it up on the tow truck to the dealer for a new clutch.
Old 12-21-2014, 08:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by c6miller
I had the same thing happen a few months after I bought my 2003. I was able to put it in gear with the engine off, then start it so I could drive it up on the tow truck to the dealer for a new clutch.
Lol makes me feel better calling the clutch then. At least it gives me an excuse to spend money on the vette .
Old 12-22-2014, 03:32 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by c6miller
I had the same thing happen a few months after I bought my 2003. I was able to put it in gear with the engine off, then start it so I could drive it up on the tow truck to the dealer for a new clutch.
I'm having that same issue


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