What's a good 500HP clutch nowadays?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
What's a good 500HP clutch nowadays?
I am thinking about doing a mild turbo build. I don't plan on making more than 500whp. One of the things that will have to change is the stock clutch. I want something that will hold the power and drive like factory, without breaking the bank. LS7 seems like a good choice, but what else is out there nowadays? I don't think I need a twin disc at this power level, and I don't want an aggressive single disc with a heavy pressure plate that's going to be a pain to drive.
#2
Racer
I am thinking about doing a mild turbo build. I don't plan on making more than 500whp. One of the things that will have to change is the stock clutch. I want something that will hold the power and drive like factory, without breaking the bank. LS7 seems like a good choice, but what else is out there nowadays? I don't think I need a twin disc at this power level, and I don't want an aggressive single disc with a heavy pressure plate that's going to be a pain to drive.
That with an MGW...slam gears all day long and its good to go.
Probably can't go wrong with Mantic or Monster...I'd go with either before an LS7.
#3
I was gonna do an LS7 also but changed my mind. Im gonna do a Mantic single also. Its not that much more money and holds more power. Im at 488 now but we all know sooner or later youll be itching for more power, dont try and kid yourself. Might as well do overkill on a clutch.
#4
Melting Slicks
Im at 460rwhp. I went with a Mantic ER2 single. Literally, factory drivability and pedal effort. All of the good about the stock clutch(pedal effort, engagement, smooth) and none of the negatives(sticky pedal, notchy shifting etc).
That with an MGW...slam gears all day long and its good to go.
Probably can't go wrong with Mantic or Monster...I'd go with either before an LS7.
That with an MGW...slam gears all day long and its good to go.
Probably can't go wrong with Mantic or Monster...I'd go with either before an LS7.
I know a few guys that have the Monster clutch and they are happy with them also.
Last edited by Navybluevette; 10-17-2014 at 12:03 AM.
#6
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you replace the clutch, here are a few things to consider. I answered in this post. Dont want to see you leave something important off your repair list:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...same-time.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...same-time.html
#7
Melting Slicks
Since you clearly note that you don't want heavy pressure, if you replace the clutch master cylinder, do NOT go with a Tick unit. It's dramatically heavier than stock.
#10
I went with the Mcleod RST early this year and it seems to be working good pedal effort is less then stock and suppose to hold up to 800HP did notice that the engagement of the clutch is sooner not sure if this is the case with anyone else running this set up.
#11
Racer
Bolted in and went. No special balancing etc etc. I may have lucked out with that based on a few recent threads though. Id research the balancing issues the factory unit can cause after its removed before you dig in. Seems to have more to do with the factory unit than the replacement.
#13
Racer
Bolted in and went. No special balancing etc etc. I may have lucked out with that based on a few recent threads though. Id research the balancing issues the factory unit can cause after its removed before you dig in. Seems to have more to do with the factory unit than the replacement.
I'm just curious as to what is the general understanding "takeaway" from the previous threads on the subject.
Last edited by thbwlZ; 10-24-2014 at 11:16 AM.