Kook 1 3/4 header questions?
10-18-2014, 12:59 PM
#1
Veteran
Thread Starter
Kook 1 3/4 header questions?
I have a 97 that presently has stock exhaust with Borla stingers on the end. I am getting ready take thanks in advance
1. Do I need a heat shield for the starter?
2. Do I need insulation boots for plug wire?
3. What all do I need to remove for the install? I have the new design Header.
4. How long did it take you? Cincy speed wanted to charge 8-10 hours, Maryland Speed who I got it from said 1-2 hours.
5. I am installing the 160 thermostat, new plugs and new wires. Am I forgetting anything?
Thanks
1. Do I need a heat shield for the starter?
2. Do I need insulation boots for plug wire?
3. What all do I need to remove for the install? I have the new design Header.
4. How long did it take you? Cincy speed wanted to charge 8-10 hours, Maryland Speed who I got it from said 1-2 hours.
5. I am installing the 160 thermostat, new plugs and new wires. Am I forgetting anything?
Thanks
10-18-2014, 01:22 PM
#2
Drifting
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29
That will be pretty useful overall for you. I have the new style 1 7/8" from Kooks and here is my experience:
1.) Nah
2.) I added some at a later date... nice to have, but not really needed
3.) Other than the expected stuff you're going to have to remove to pull the stock stuff, the only 'extra' thing I had to remove was an engine ground strap wire on the driver side.
4.) I put my car up on jack stands and did the install in my garage over the weekend. I can't remember the exact figure but you'll need around 20' on ground clearance. Took me both days, but I definitely took my time etc. If you've done the swap a few times before I guess 1-2 hours is possible, assuming you don't run into any rust/stuck bolt type issues removing the stock stuff. It's a relatively involved process, but really not that bad IMO. I also spent a good amount of time at the end making sure everything was back together/tight, exhaust tips were level/even etc etc.
5.) I would skip the 160 tstat altogether, but there are at least a hundred threads on that subject alone. I can't really think of any other "must do" mods while you're there.
Good luck!
That will be pretty useful overall for you. I have the new style 1 7/8" from Kooks and here is my experience:
1.) Nah
2.) I added some at a later date... nice to have, but not really needed
3.) Other than the expected stuff you're going to have to remove to pull the stock stuff, the only 'extra' thing I had to remove was an engine ground strap wire on the driver side.
4.) I put my car up on jack stands and did the install in my garage over the weekend. I can't remember the exact figure but you'll need around 20' on ground clearance. Took me both days, but I definitely took my time etc. If you've done the swap a few times before I guess 1-2 hours is possible, assuming you don't run into any rust/stuck bolt type issues removing the stock stuff. It's a relatively involved process, but really not that bad IMO. I also spent a good amount of time at the end making sure everything was back together/tight, exhaust tips were level/even etc etc.
5.) I would skip the 160 tstat altogether, but there are at least a hundred threads on that subject alone. I can't really think of any other "must do" mods while you're there.
Good luck!
10-18-2014, 02:57 PM
#3
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: cinnaminson n.j.
Posts: 1,719
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St. Jude Donor '14
They tell you 1-2 hours to install because that helps sell them! A corvette specialty shop could probably do them in 2 hours. If your paying a shop to install them, I would say 4 billable hours is fair. You don't want them rushing threw the job. If you are doing it in your garage, maybe 8-10, depends on your tools and skill.
The flange bolts probably won't want to come off unless they are heated with an oxy/acetylene torch. Use extreme caution!
The flange bolts probably won't want to come off unless they are heated with an oxy/acetylene torch. Use extreme caution!
10-18-2014, 03:04 PM
#4
Veteran
Thread Starter
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29
That will be pretty useful overall for you. I have the new style 1 7/8" from Kooks and here is my experience:
1.) Nah
2.) I added some at a later date... nice to have, but not really needed
3.) Other than the expected stuff you're going to have to remove to pull the stock stuff, the only 'extra' thing I had to remove was an engine ground strap wire on the driver side.
4.) I put my car up on jack stands and did the install in my garage over the weekend. I can't remember the exact figure but you'll need around 20' on ground clearance. Took me both days, but I definitely took my time etc. If you've done the swap a few times before I guess 1-2 hours is possible, assuming you don't run into any rust/stuck bolt type issues removing the stock stuff. It's a relatively involved process, but really not that bad IMO. I also spent a good amount of time at the end making sure everything was back together/tight, exhaust tips were level/even etc etc.
5.) I would skip the 160 tstat altogether, but there are at least a hundred threads on that subject alone. I can't really think of any other "must do" mods while you're there.
Good luck!
That will be pretty useful overall for you. I have the new style 1 7/8" from Kooks and here is my experience:
1.) Nah
2.) I added some at a later date... nice to have, but not really needed
3.) Other than the expected stuff you're going to have to remove to pull the stock stuff, the only 'extra' thing I had to remove was an engine ground strap wire on the driver side.
4.) I put my car up on jack stands and did the install in my garage over the weekend. I can't remember the exact figure but you'll need around 20' on ground clearance. Took me both days, but I definitely took my time etc. If you've done the swap a few times before I guess 1-2 hours is possible, assuming you don't run into any rust/stuck bolt type issues removing the stock stuff. It's a relatively involved process, but really not that bad IMO. I also spent a good amount of time at the end making sure everything was back together/tight, exhaust tips were level/even etc etc.
5.) I would skip the 160 tstat altogether, but there are at least a hundred threads on that subject alone. I can't really think of any other "must do" mods while you're there.
Good luck!
10-18-2014, 03:13 PM
#5
Veteran
Thread Starter
They tell you 1-2 hours to install because that helps sell them! A corvette specialty shop could probably do them in 2 hours. If your paying a shop to install them, I would say 4 billable hours is fair. You don't want them rushing threw the job. If you are doing it in your garage, maybe 8-10, depends on your tools and skill.
The flange bolts probably won't want to come off unless they are heated with an oxy/acetylene torch. Use extreme caution!
The flange bolts probably won't want to come off unless they are heated with an oxy/acetylene torch. Use extreme caution!
10-19-2014, 07:49 PM
#9
Veteran
Thread Starter
Really? I have never heard of the soft reusable metal layered gaskets failing on the newer headers just the old ones. I thought they replaced them with Percy's seal 4 good gaskets just in Kooks packaging. Oh well really doesn't matter I do have 107k on it but I would bet I will be the first to ever remove the stock exhaust manifold so I wouldn't think reusing the stock 97's will be an issue. Unless since 97 was the first year C5 they had a different gasket material. That I do not know.
10-20-2014, 07:11 AM
#10
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: cinnaminson n.j.
Posts: 1,719
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St. Jude Donor '14
I have a 2000. The stockers are MLS gaskets. I think they are stainless steel. I have heard of people reusing them although I bought new ones. I found the install easier using a couple of studs to hold the gasket and set the header on while staring the other bolts. I used the stock bolts as well. It's been a year and a half, no problems.
Maybe do a search on header gaskets.
Maybe do a search on header gaskets.
10-22-2014, 12:43 AM
#11
Pro
I have a set of 1 3/4's coming Thursday. I've read a few nightmare stories on the web about installs. But according to Kooks they slip right in. True? I installed a set of LG's on my last Vette and it was a breeze.
10-22-2014, 11:18 AM
#13
Drifting
Kooks redesigned their headers for the C5s sometime in 2012 or 2013... they slip right in like I mentioned above.
I just swapped X pipes last night and 1 more tip for you:
-Leave one of the headers (I prefer passenger side) loose before moving onto the X-pipe. IF you bolt the headers down tight, its very difficult to get the X pipe lined up into the headers since they come in at an angle.
-With the passenger header still loose, get the X pipe in place and get the clamps at the header/x-pipe hand tight so it will hold it in place.
-Next, I installed the bolts that hold up the x pipe via the springs.
-Hook up X pipe to axle back and tighten down.
-Then go back and tighten up header and header to x pipe connections.
-Now all you'll have left is the X-pipe slip fits....get everything lined up how you want, then tighten those down.
I just swapped X pipes last night and 1 more tip for you:
-Leave one of the headers (I prefer passenger side) loose before moving onto the X-pipe. IF you bolt the headers down tight, its very difficult to get the X pipe lined up into the headers since they come in at an angle.
-With the passenger header still loose, get the X pipe in place and get the clamps at the header/x-pipe hand tight so it will hold it in place.
-Next, I installed the bolts that hold up the x pipe via the springs.
-Hook up X pipe to axle back and tighten down.
-Then go back and tighten up header and header to x pipe connections.
-Now all you'll have left is the X-pipe slip fits....get everything lined up how you want, then tighten those down.
10-22-2014, 11:29 AM
#14
Veteran
Thread Starter
Kooks redesigned their headers for the C5s sometime in 2012 or 2013... they slip right in like I mentioned above.
I just swapped X pipes last night and 1 more tip for you:
-Leave one of the headers (I prefer passenger side) loose before moving onto the X-pipe. IF you bolt the headers down tight, its very difficult to get the X pipe lined up into the headers since they come in at an angle.
-With the passenger header still loose, get the X pipe in place and get the clamps at the header/x-pipe hand tight so it will hold it in place.
-Next, I installed the bolts that hold up the x pipe via the springs.
-Hook up X pipe to axle back and tighten down.
-Then go back and tighten up header and header to x pipe connections.
-Now all you'll have left is the X-pipe slip fits....get everything lined up how you want, then tighten those down.
I just swapped X pipes last night and 1 more tip for you:
-Leave one of the headers (I prefer passenger side) loose before moving onto the X-pipe. IF you bolt the headers down tight, its very difficult to get the X pipe lined up into the headers since they come in at an angle.
-With the passenger header still loose, get the X pipe in place and get the clamps at the header/x-pipe hand tight so it will hold it in place.
-Next, I installed the bolts that hold up the x pipe via the springs.
-Hook up X pipe to axle back and tighten down.
-Then go back and tighten up header and header to x pipe connections.
-Now all you'll have left is the X-pipe slip fits....get everything lined up how you want, then tighten those down.
10-22-2014, 02:38 PM
#15
Former Vendor
They tell you 1-2 hours to install because that helps sell them! A corvette specialty shop could probably do them in 2 hours. If your paying a shop to install them, I would say 4 billable hours is fair. You don't want them rushing threw the job. If you are doing it in your garage, maybe 8-10, depends on your tools and skill.
The flange bolts probably won't want to come off unless they are heated with an oxy/acetylene torch. Use extreme caution!
The flange bolts probably won't want to come off unless they are heated with an oxy/acetylene torch. Use extreme caution!
Granted we do lots and lots of header installs, the mechanics here at the shop complete just about any LS header install in about 90 minutes. Just trying to look out for our customers
10-22-2014, 05:54 PM
#17
Veteran
Thread Starter
I am paying 350.00 to have it all installed, new plugs, wires and 160 stat. That is worth it to me just to not have to go around jacking up one corner at a time to get it high enough. I did the Hooker super comp sidepipe headers on my 72 vette at home alone in my garage. I will never do that one again! All the cutting, I had to use the floor jack to try and hold the header close enough to start a bolt. Then mounting the 4" tubes to the frame. Header studs were to big for 1 7/8 pipes so you had to use bolts.
10-22-2014, 06:42 PM
#18
Racer
I got a 2002 LS1 six speed and am seriously considering installing headers. I don't know about 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 mean other than diameter. What tune do I need? Does the headers come with the EGR line coupling. (2 bolt air valve). I have an X pipe ready to install and wanted to do it all at the same time.
10-22-2014, 10:29 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
I got a 2002 LS1 six speed and am seriously considering installing headers. I don't know about 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 mean other than diameter. What tune do I need? Does the headers come with the EGR line coupling. (2 bolt air valve). I have an X pipe ready to install and wanted to do it all at the same time.
10-22-2014, 10:56 PM
#20
Pro
It was easier than I thought is was going to be on my 98. The biggest PITA was swapping out the RH air tube that runs behind the intake. That's not going to an issue on my 01.