RCS

Fiberglass!

Btw i did not import this car. I bought it from a guy leaving Philippines back to his own contry. He was in a rush to sell it due to family situation and no place to store the cars. He had a Mercedes CL600 left to sell.

65GGvert

Follow the link provided earlier to fix your dim A/C display. All it takes is to solder those 8 resistors pictured in the link. Then for your passenger side control, it won't change anything when you turn it, it's designed that way. No visual difference is apparent, but the passenger temp will vary up and down by a few degrees when you turn it. The display won't change, that's normal. One other thing, if your outside temp display is reading a -37 degrees, the a/c won't work. You need to change out or reconnect the outside temp sensor that's mounted just below the passenger side pf the radiator on the frame. It' looks like a thermometer except it's black plastic and has a two wire connector going to it. You may not have as many problems as you think. You have to get that outside temp display to work before your a/c will work, and the display is a simple fix.

RCS

Thanks a bunch for your answer. I was just reading trugh the ignition info and it makes sense that the thermometer needs to function for the ac to turn on... But it comes and goes so maby its a bad connection in the thermometer... I dident check when it worked the other day what temp it showed.... But since the temp here is 30+ on average (easely up to 37 daytime) it shuld have 37+ not -37

Again apresiate your feedback. Going in the garage now to check...its just so hot outside today. Maby ill bring a cold beer

RCS

Hi. What was the fix for the AC blowing in all vents. I suspect mine is not blowing correct.

one moore question. Originaly these cars have a remote and alarm? How dose your alarm remote look? Mine has 4 buttons in chrome and blue light. I bought new batterys yesterday and now the remote has a constant blue light that gets stronger if i press. Like driving/break lights :-). But nothing happen.? Im shure there is a thread made for that to :-)

Got to start tearing down the underside of the dash yesterday. Had to go buy some tools so ill continue this today. Will take the lock apart and hopefully the lock fix also will arrive so i can have that insalled same time.

4horseman

especially changing the actuators what a pain. The whole dash has to come out. Took me almost 2 hours.
First check the refrig level and check for leaks. The c5 is notorious for leaking compressors and broken hvac door actuators.

You need to check the udders. When they get clogged the motor will sit in water and viola, no wipers.

Bill Curlee

The issues that you have are most likely SYSTEM specific problems. From what I have read, I wouldnt be too concerned with grounds or a bad battery as of yet.

You need to do a good DTC reading and post those results. I recommend that you CLEAR the DTCs, start the engine and take the car for a good drive. Before,,,, you shut the engine OFF, read and post ALL the DTCs or messages that you see in the DIC.

Your key fobs need to be TRAINED for the RFA to sync to the FOBS. You can train up to three FOBs. The procedure is in your OWNERS MANUAL

Go to this link at the Corvette Action Center and you can down load the entire owners manual on PDF

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...ual-links.html

In that manual, you will find the procedure for FOB training and FOB Sync.

Bill


READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of READING diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here are some very good sites that explains the DTCs:

http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

3boystoys

Fiberglass nose is not correct, should be Urethane. Think he was in a rush to unload a problem car.

How's the adventure going?