Bill Curlee

Its most likely the CONNECTORS for the door or the seat. The female pins get spread apart, make a poor connection and the module turns ON & OFF rapidly and corrupts the data buss.

Pop out the accordion tube on both doors, fish out the connectors in the A pillar and find the power connector and inspect the pins for being spread apart and fix them. Do the same for the seat connector.

BC

anarchy99

Solid copy, I'll pull them tomorrow and take a look. I really do appreciate all the help

DIXZ

Part number for the Vehicle Speed Sensor is 12369458. It is located in the top of the differential.

anarchy99

Thanks, I appreciate it, I went ahead and ordered a new VSS... After driving the car today, I noticed my new Dewitt's radiator is leaking somewhere in the center of the radiator.... Definetly not from the hoses, you can see the wet spots in the center of the radiator. I wonder if I overfilled the radiator system and left the fluid with no place to go and it found the weakest spot.... Don't worry, no stop leak going in it, I'll pull it and drop it at off at a radiator shop to pressure test it and figure out what's up... Other than that, no issues, car ran as it should...
Observations after running the car with the cap removed from the plug next to the BCM...
1) when the car is parked, the lights on the door keypads remain on, even an hour or so after walking away from the car with the doors closed and never opened in an hour.... Thought it was weird.
2) with the plug plugged in, the car runs like hell but the hvac light is super dim, like you can barely see it lit, even at night. With the plug unplugged, the hvac light is bright and looks like it should. And the car runs great, but obviously the windows don't roll down, etc... I thought it was weird.
Any thoughts?

Bill Curlee

Unplug the seat and reinstall the STAR connector top. If you still have the issue, its one or both the Door modules. Disconnect one at a time and inspect for bent spread pins.

Resolve THAT issue and go from there.

We can discuss the rest later.


BC

anarchy99

I'm waiting on the radiator shop to finish fixing whatever my radiator problem was... On a side note, before ordering a new VSS I should have done the obvious thing and checked to make sure mine was actually plugged in... You can see where I'm going with this

anarchy99

Never mind, VSS isn't working even when plugged in... Good thing I got a new one to install. On a side note, unplugging the seat connector under the seat and plugging back in the star connector, the car runs good, as it should. I'm guessing the problem is in the seat stuff somewhere.

Bill Curlee

Check the wires and the female pins first in the seat connector.. There always damaged.

BC

anarchy99

Is that the connector directly under the driver seat, close to the door sill side?

Bill Curlee

Yes!

anarchy99

One of the Orange wires on the male side of the plug was about half way pulled out of the connector... It looked like it had backed its way out. I pushed it all the way back in and re connected the seat connector... Fired up and idled good several times. I'll hop in tomorrow and give it a drive to work and see how she does.

anarchy99

I'm super confused now... That connector by the BCM is unplugged and the car wants to surge and buck horribly. No codes other than low MAF voltage, which shouldn't matter as the car is tuned in speed density. I wonder if somehow I unhooked something or something is not properly hooked up at the tranny since the VSS wasn't registering the speed. Sometimes when I get on the gas there's a huge hesitation before it surges and bucks... Any ideas?

anarchy99

Christmas bump... Any thoughts, I'm thinking I need to just drop it off at a shop.

BadMedcn

Take a break from it. You will come back with a fresh mind. See my first post to your thread. Your problems are VERY VERY similar to mine and mine also began with an engine swap. There is a ground on the driver's side, rear on the block. Get to it and check it. Clean it and then follow it. It is the ground to many things, injectors being one of them. If it's corroded, loose, whatever it will cause the majority of those gremlins of which you complain. Believe me, the frustration will cause you to buy replacement parts you don't need. I replaced a BCM and a PCM and nothing improved and in fact it left me with malfunctioning seats that I eventually figured out came from the need to re program my replacement BCM. That required a Tech II! That was a great addition to my tool box, but in the end the originals went back in and ONE stupid, poorly wired connection was the culprit. I am convinced that our BCMs, EBCMs, PCMs, VSSs and such are fairly stout and not prone to breaking as often as we would like to think. Your problem is in wiring. Check out that ground I spoke of. Lastly, when I was at my wits end I took it to dealer....who refused to even look at it. Shop foreman said it would take too long, cost too much! Even when I said, "What do you care? I'm paying for it." Would not touch it. My independent shop kept it 6 months, charged me $600 and gave me some story about they re wired this around that.......it was just BS....by the time I was home every light and gauge on the dash and DIC was acting up wildly. Then I burned my hand on a wire under the hood, on a car that had not been running in over 24 hours! Started the car, disconnected that hot wire and car stalled. Traced the wire to the ground on the block, looked it up in the manual and found the answer....injectors and IPC. Split up the wires and found new grounds and just like that.....CURED. Don't give up, it's there, in the wiring done at the time of your transplant/rebuild. Check again.

Bill Curlee

Most of your sensors run on a 5 VDC reference voltage. If that voltage is compromised, the engine will have ALL SORTS OF ISSUES!! TEMPORALLY Disconnect the MAF and see what happens. Measure the 5 VDC reff on some of the sensors (example Coolant Temp sensor) and see if the REFF Voltage is very close to the 5 VDC its suppose to be. Measure both wires to chassis ground. One of them should have voltage when the ignition is ON. Report back what it is.

Bill MERRY CHRISTMAS!

PS,, The Crank Sensor runs off 12 VDC. FYI99

anarchy99

Bill,
Your my new hero... I literally unplugged the MAF and the car runs like a damn raped ape... Bill pm me a mailing address for you, I've got a thank you coming your way in appreciation.

Bill Curlee

Im very happy you are back on the road for little or no CASH!

You dont need no stinken SHOP!

Make sure that MAF is tuned out properly and if its bad, I would still replace it.

Bill

Bill Curlee

anarchy99

Your PM Box is FULL.. I got the package. THANK YOU!

I just got back from Scotland. Man what a SNOW STORM!

Bill

anarchy99

Just noticed that... I cleared a few out. Glad you got it, we didn't get hit to bad in the norfolk/Virginia beacha tea.