Traction control not working after new clutch install
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Traction control not working after new clutch install
Not sure what the shop could have done to mess with my traction control while installing a new McLeod twin disk clutch and hydraulics, but I have zero traction control now and I'm not sure where to start with diagnosis on this one. Other than sensors, which I would assume would throw a code if they damaged one or failed to plug one or both back in, what could be up here? I've read that switching left/right wiring can cause odd things with stability control, but as far as traction control goes, where should I start to diagnose and fix this? Thanks in advance for any help!
#2
Racer
Thread Starter
Btw, ABS seems to work fine, it activated yesterday during a hard stop on leaves and indicated on the dash. Not sure how that plays into the equation as far as sensors would go relating to stability control/active handling.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
#5
Intermediate
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You might want to pull your console up and see if they disconnected you lateral sensor when they removed your shifter, could've forgot to plug it back in. It sure seems to me it would be something stupid like that.
Traction and ABS codes are stored in the EBCM, so you need a scan tool capable. Pretty sure you can do it through the DIC but I've never tried.
Traction and ABS codes are stored in the EBCM, so you need a scan tool capable. Pretty sure you can do it through the DIC but I've never tried.
#6
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '14
You should have codes and warning messages if the traction control is not functioning. You should provide the year and model c5 you own. The abs/tcs systems are different on the early cars.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
That brings up another quick question. This is my first aftermarket clutch in any C5 and I went with a Mcleod RXT twin disk and lightweight Mcleod flywheel. I like the clutch, a bit grabby but getting better with miles of break in, but the question I have is where the clutch should begin to engage. Right now it engages just as it's coming off the floor. I haven't had the rear up on jack stands to test for creep when disengaged, but it seems to be fully disengaged on the floor. The lack of travel before engagement seems odd. Any twin disk Mcleod owners here with experience?
#8
Instructor
Sorry for the Basic question.
If you have no codes Do you have any lights on the dash indicating a failure?
If not how are you determining you have no traction control ?
Just trying to help narrow down what you are seeing and feeling in regards to the traction control issue.
If you have no codes Do you have any lights on the dash indicating a failure?
If not how are you determining you have no traction control ?
Just trying to help narrow down what you are seeing and feeling in regards to the traction control issue.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry for the Basic question.
If you have no codes Do you have any lights on the dash indicating a failure?
If not how are you determining you have no traction control ?
Just trying to help narrow down what you are seeing and feeling in regards to the traction control issue.
If you have no codes Do you have any lights on the dash indicating a failure?
If not how are you determining you have no traction control ?
Just trying to help narrow down what you are seeing and feeling in regards to the traction control issue.
#10
Burning Brakes
Have you talked to the shop that did the work? Seems to me if it worked before you took it there and it doesn't when you get it back, it should be their responsibilty to find and fix the problem. If they don't I sure wouldn't ever go back. They may be interested to know about it for future reference too. I would at least talk to them. Maybe they have had this problem before and know exactly what it is, ya never know.... Good luck
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
So, that might explain why just pulling codes using the DIC isn't showing anything. I would think something as important as TC would show up in the DIC and throw a codes. So, if what you're saying is correct, I'll head to my mechanic (not the shop that did the clutch work) and have him run the scanner.
#13
Drifting
So, that might explain why just pulling codes using the DIC isn't showing anything. I would think something as important as TC would show up in the DIC and throw a codes. So, if what you're saying is correct, I'll head to my mechanic (not the shop that did the clutch work) and have him run the scanner.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
You misunderstood my post. The dic is the BEST way to pull the codes, not a scanner. Are you using this procedure? http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Now, how do I tell if they edited out the T/C or messed with the tune in general? I do a lot of my own work but a clutch was a bit too much for me, and I don't have a scan tool. My mechanic who does my alignments and tires, etc, does have a scan tool that we've used for ABS bleeds and stuff would help but I don't know if he's up to speed on checking any deeper into what's been done with the tune. Question is, would any edits to the tune have a time stamp to attribute to the shop that did the clutch R&R?
#17
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They were not supposed to tune the car and there was no reason to touch the tune. The car has a mail order tune from ECS that I'm happy with. Traction control worked fine after the mail order tune and only now, after the clutch R&R, is the traction control not working. I brought up the issue of them editing the tune to delete the traction control as one possible explanation as to how the lack of T/C would not throw codes. Maybe they buggered up a sensor or something upon reinstallation of the driveline and couldn't get it to clear and not throw codes without deleting the T/C? That would be VERY negligent if the lack of T/C caused an accident.....
Now, how do I tell if they edited out the T/C or messed with the tune in general? I do a lot of my own work but a clutch was a bit too much for me, and I don't have a scan tool. My mechanic who does my alignments and tires, etc, does have a scan tool that we've used for ABS bleeds and stuff would help but I don't know if he's up to speed on checking any deeper into what's been done with the tune. Question is, would any edits to the tune have a time stamp to attribute to the shop that did the clutch R&R?
Now, how do I tell if they edited out the T/C or messed with the tune in general? I do a lot of my own work but a clutch was a bit too much for me, and I don't have a scan tool. My mechanic who does my alignments and tires, etc, does have a scan tool that we've used for ABS bleeds and stuff would help but I don't know if he's up to speed on checking any deeper into what's been done with the tune. Question is, would any edits to the tune have a time stamp to attribute to the shop that did the clutch R&R?
For the record, we do not disable the TCS in any way for our mail order tunes.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Hope it didn't come across that I thought it may have been ECS that edited out the T/C. It worked perfectly after your tune, which was great, by the way, and only after the clutch install by a local performance shop did the T/C not work. Wish you guys at ECS were closer to me and I would have loved to have you guys do the clutch!
#19
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Hope it didn't come across that I thought it may have been ECS that edited out the T/C. It worked perfectly after your tune, which was great, by the way, and only after the clutch install by a local performance shop did the T/C not work. Wish you guys at ECS were closer to me and I would have loved to have you guys do the clutch!
Thanks! I just wanted to make it clear because you would be amazed how some people can decipher the Interwebz sometimes.
#20
Racer
Not sure what the shop could have done to mess with my traction control while installing a new McLeod twin disk clutch and hydraulics, but I have zero traction control now and I'm not sure where to start with diagnosis on this one. Other than sensors, which I would assume would throw a code if they damaged one or failed to plug one or both back in, what could be up here? I've read that switching left/right wiring can cause odd things with stability control, but as far as traction control goes, where should I start to diagnose and fix this? Thanks in advance for any help!
Don't want to insult but... is there any chance by "AH/TC not working" you mean the button on the center console is not cycling through the Active Handling options? Any chance this switch is not hooked up to it's harness??? (Just seems like it must be something too easy to overlook or you would have error codes).
Good Luck!!!
Tim