Edmond

2003 Z06.

Going to do the rear wheel bearings. Been looking online and looks like I have the following choices:

Raybestos Professional Grade for $123
Timken for $140
SKF for $150

Or should I go with one of the chain stores?

Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore.

What would you guys do?

Does anyone have the part number for the rear axle spindle nut and know what size socket is needed?

Any tips on this? I've looked at a few YouTube videos and while it doesn't seem difficult, it does seem somewhat tedious. Looks like it will take a couple of hours for each one.

SG Lou

If your seriously thinking about selling it then the Raybestos unit would be fine. If on the other hand you have a change of heart.....

Socket is 33mm

Nut - # 10257766

The TSB calls for new axle nuts.

1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.

Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque is 140 ft-lb.

The only PITA that I came across when I did mine was breaking the bolts loose that hold the Bearing Hub assembly to the spindle. 96 lb ft of torque and Loctite hold those suckers on there !

Edmond

Lou,

You used a cheater bar or an impact? I won't have the luxury of an impact.

Edmond

Also, is the left bearing the same as the right bearing? Looking online doesn't designate a left or right.

SG Lou

Yes, I had both but you will be able to do it with a Bkr Bar and a 1/2 drive ratchet. The bolts that hold the hub in place are Torx Head bolts. I used the cheater to break them loose and then used the impact to take them out the rest of the way.


Left or Right, they are both the same

leadfoot4

Go with the SKF, that way, if you have a change of heart, and decide to keep the car, you'll know you've got the best bearings in there. The cost difference isn't all that much.

Sigforty

I chose Timken when i did the fronts on my Z06. I have been happy with them. You may want to check the Autozone prices. Back when I did mine about 2 years ago, Autozone had a better price than online stores.

leadfoot4

I have a link to an SKF warehouse distributor, who's prices are quite good, but I can't mention it here because they're not a Forum Sponsor...but the OP has posted a pretty good price for the SKF units.

Sigforty

I am guessing by the price posted he is just talking the regular SKF bearings. If I was going to spend the money especially on the rears, I would get the HD SKF. They are a better design and should handle more abuse.

0HoosierPE

Sigforty is right. This pricing is the standard hubs. The HD "Heavy Duty" X-Tracker hub assemblies are more expensive but the better choice for when adding power and competing in racing events.

Jason

dbgoodwin

We're it me, I would want the best. Then again, I'm the kind of guy who enjoys driving his vette!

leadfoot4

SG Lou

Guys , Edmond, the OP stated, " Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore."

If all the above holds true and he's seriously thinking of selling it then the Raybestos Units fit the bill.

leadfoot4

Unless you're the guy that buys the car from him......

strand rider

I have always enjoyed a fine bearing and see little need for selecting second string stuff , unless you think your car will be one of the ones that won't make it past the junk yard one of these days. A car needs stewardship to keep it from being just another broken vette under a tarp.

Of course used corvette demand will be down somewhat when all cars are electric, computer driven at max speed all the time and gas costs 29 bucks a quart.

Edmond

Thanks for the advice, that's what I ended up going with.

You're right, a few bucks more wouldn't hurt so I went the better route.

Looking at videos online, the job doesn't look too complicated. Just have to go to HF to get a ball joint separator.

leadfoot4

I haven't looked too closely at the C=5's rear spindles, but on many cars, there is frequently a "flat" on the spindle, that you can give a good whack with a dead blow hammer, and the ball joint's stud will release....with the nut loosened, of course. The risk you run with using a "pickle fork", is tearing the ball joint's rubber boot.

Edmond

I was going to pick this up:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

RonSSNova

A propane torch on those torx spindle bolts will help.
The lower ball joint should release pretty easily.

Ron

Sigforty

You may want to consider these two tools.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU

I use them on almost all my pulling applications for suspension and steering. They work so much better than the hammer and fork, or other tools I have tried.