No-Start Issue; Bumping Manual Shifter makes it crank
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No-Start Issue; Bumping Manual Shifter makes it crank
UPDATE:
My problem ended up being very simple. One of the starter solenoid wires was super loose and had about 1/4" wiggle room and not making proper contact. No other issues.
------
Hi everyone. I am also experiencing the no-start issue with my '03 Z06. It is now happening almost every crank. I have read and read and gained lots of knowledge for troubleshooting, but I have yet to hear of anyone mention this...
Typically when I am having the no-start issue, everything acts normal, except nothing when turning over to START. While I am holding the key in the START position, and bump the manual shifter back-n-forth, typically while in neutral, it'll crank fine after a few wiggles (bumping the edges of the shifter gate). Additionally, sometimes while leaving the car in reverse, and bumping it around but not pulling it into neutral will also cause it to crank.
Anyone else having the same scenario where you can bump the manual shifter and get it to crank?
Are there any contactors, switches, relays, etc. down under the shifter that could cause this?
One code is currently logged:
58-SDM U1096 H
---
Incredible wealth of knowledge here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-problem.html
Thanks for ANY insight. Last night I was stranded for 2 hours before it decided to crank.
My problem ended up being very simple. One of the starter solenoid wires was super loose and had about 1/4" wiggle room and not making proper contact. No other issues.
------
Hi everyone. I am also experiencing the no-start issue with my '03 Z06. It is now happening almost every crank. I have read and read and gained lots of knowledge for troubleshooting, but I have yet to hear of anyone mention this...
Typically when I am having the no-start issue, everything acts normal, except nothing when turning over to START. While I am holding the key in the START position, and bump the manual shifter back-n-forth, typically while in neutral, it'll crank fine after a few wiggles (bumping the edges of the shifter gate). Additionally, sometimes while leaving the car in reverse, and bumping it around but not pulling it into neutral will also cause it to crank.
Anyone else having the same scenario where you can bump the manual shifter and get it to crank?
Are there any contactors, switches, relays, etc. down under the shifter that could cause this?
One code is currently logged:
58-SDM U1096 H
---
Incredible wealth of knowledge here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-problem.html
Thanks for ANY insight. Last night I was stranded for 2 hours before it decided to crank.
Last edited by slimflem; 11-24-2014 at 08:31 AM.
#2
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When putting the key in, and turning to ON position and letting it sit, the Security light comes on solid for a few seconds then turns off. No blinks/flashes/etc.
Single code at this point:
58-SDM U1096 H
(I just test cranked it about 10 times, no issues cranked on each first try.)
Single code at this point:
58-SDM U1096 H
(I just test cranked it about 10 times, no issues cranked on each first try.)
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not a problem with reading the pellet on the key. If it were then the security light would stay on.
I would go through the diagnosis portion of the ignition switch in my previous post. If the voltages across the test fuses are within a tenth or so of battery voltage then the problem most likely is the starter solenoid. Next time it will not crank get a helper that can hold the key in the start position while you get a broom handle on the starter and wack the end of the broom handle soundly with a hammer. Shock through the broom handle to the starter will likely cause the car to start.
The code you have is NOT related to the No Start problem. Clear it and drive the car and repull codes. Chances are it will not return.
I would go through the diagnosis portion of the ignition switch in my previous post. If the voltages across the test fuses are within a tenth or so of battery voltage then the problem most likely is the starter solenoid. Next time it will not crank get a helper that can hold the key in the start position while you get a broom handle on the starter and wack the end of the broom handle soundly with a hammer. Shock through the broom handle to the starter will likely cause the car to start.
The code you have is NOT related to the No Start problem. Clear it and drive the car and repull codes. Chances are it will not return.
I did swap the battery with an Optima Red Top a few months ago, possibly that code is related to that swap. I will clear it.
I will do fuse tests later today and post back results.
#4
Platinum Supporting Dealership
There are no switches or connectors at the shifter. If the wiggling of the shifter truly does make the difference between cranking and not cranking, then it's possible that the wiggling causes enough shake or vibration of the car to create a more positive connection at the crank circuit failure. Take a look at the starter, they're known for no start conditions.
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are no switches or connectors at the shifter. If the wiggling of the shifter truly does make the difference between cranking and not cranking, then it's possible that the wiggling causes enough shake or vibration of the car to create a more positive connection at the crank circuit failure. Take a look at the starter, they're known for no start conditions.
#7
Safety Car
You could have a bad ground, bumping the shifter could wiggle the torque tube just enough to cause an intermittent ground.
You might try taking a jumper cable and grounding the block to the neg on the battery.
You might try taking a jumper cable and grounding the block to the neg on the battery.
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
UPDATE:
My problem ended up being very simple. One of the starter solenoid wires was super loose and had about 1/4" wiggle room and not making proper contact. No other issues.
My problem ended up being very simple. One of the starter solenoid wires was super loose and had about 1/4" wiggle room and not making proper contact. No other issues.