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All those who've done this swap, please tell me my stock LS1 motor mounts will fit?? I did an eyeball test with the engine on the hoist and inside the engine bay. I can't for the life of me figure out where the motor mounts bolt up to the LS3 there are four bolt holes that "look" like the spot, but when I put the mounts in place on the cradle, there's no way they line up with the bolt holes! HELP!
Hello, retired Army SFC myself MP. I have a similar set up. Now I did not do the work myself-I had this swap done by a shop here in PA however I do know they were able to transplant the motor mounts without issue. Only reason I know is because I had put new mounts on a couple of years before the LS1 went bad and they were able to reuse them without issue.
As for your fuel rail questions, I would think you would use the LS3 rail and injectors with a fuel regulator. They used a Aeromotive unit on my application. You can see how both lines come from the firewall to the regulator and then the one line goes into the rail. I'm sure there are other set ups that work and available but this may give you some ideas.
One can always count on an MP to be there with the answer! Was the regulator necessary because you went with an aftermarket fuel pump or was that the answer for the LS3 fuel rail? Beautiful engine bay btw; mine won't ever look that good!
One can always count on an MP to be there with the answer! Was the regulator necessary because you went with an aftermarket fuel pump or was that the answer for the LS3 fuel rail? Beautiful engine bay btw; mine won't ever look that good!
Hello, combination of a couple of items. My car is 97 so I had to work with that older two line system. The fuel regulator was suggested as a good option. I explained eventually (maybe this spring) I wanted to SC the car so they checked my fuels system and I was having some issues with the fuel pump and sending unit. I said screw it and upgraded the fuel system to fix my issues and handle the added fuel demands in the near future.
Hello, retired Army SFC myself MP. I have a similar set up. Now I did not do the work myself-I had this swap done by a shop here in PA however I do know they were able to transplant the motor mounts without issue. Only reason I know is because I had put new mounts on a couple of years before the LS1 went bad and they were able to reuse them without issue.
As for your fuel rail questions, I would think you would use the LS3 rail and injectors with a fuel regulator. They used a Aeromotive unit on my application. You can see how both lines come from the firewall to the regulator and then the one line goes into the rail. I'm sure there are other set ups that work and available but this may give you some ideas.
Sorry to hijack but that is one nice looking engine bay!!!
All those who've done this swap, please tell me my stock LS1 motor mounts will fit?? I did an eyeball test with the engine on the hoist and inside the engine bay. I can't for the life of me figure out where the motor mounts bolt up to the LS3 there are four bolt holes that "look" like the spot, but when I put the mounts in place on the cradle, there's no way they line up with the bolt holes! HELP!
The stock mounts bolt right up to an LS3 block, other than the clearancing for the right side mount.
Did this in between watching football, so not as much done as I could have.
Pic heavy!
LS7 flywheel and clutch
center lift adapter
Water pump and crossover tube installed
Clutch bellhousing in. There are wire mounts that go on here too, but I haven't a clue where.
Starter motor installed.
Interference between the Edelbrock two-piece timing cover and the water pump. the plate bolt from the water pump is contacting the upper plate of the timing chain cover. Still got the pump tightened down to spec though.
on the knock sensors why not just get the ls2-3 style and adaptor harness no grinding needed . thats what i did the tuned the computer to it sees the proper signal. throw those ls1 style away.
Is it time to hit the track yet? I can't wait to chase down that LS3 with my little LS6.
Not quite, I don't have the required number of hands. Just two.
Originally Posted by tom01ss
on the knock sensors why not just get the ls2-3 style and adaptor harness no grinding needed . thats what i did the tuned the computer to it sees the proper signal. throw those ls1 style away.
Ain't broke, no fixy. I adapted the motor mount to put the sensors on one side. I may adjust that plan though.
Thanks Joe, great find. See where he notched the pass. side bracket to clear. Since I won't be using that particular bolt hole I think I'll grind down the block side.
If you need an extra set of hands I could help. I don't live to far away! I've neve did a swap on a Vette so I would love to help. When and where is all I need.
I've been neglecting my duties towards the 'vette due to the winter temps inside my garage, but today warmed up a bit (before the snow came) so I enlisted the help of my neighbor and we got the LS3 into the car today.
I didn't take pics of the process; sorry! Here's how we did it:
-Dropped the front cradle clear. To do that you've got to unbolt the top of the shocks and the upper A-arms. Also remove and suspend your brake calipers so they don't interfere. The pass. side brake line should be removed from the flexible line junction so it won't get bent or stretched once the cradle comes down.
(place jack under cradle so it spans the front and rear parts of the cradle).
-4 21 mm nuts secure the cradle to the car frame. If you've never had these off, they are quite tight. Also, to make removal of the front cradle nuts easier, drop your swaybar. Once the nuts are free, lower the cradle, checking to see if there are any hoses/wires connected(AIRpump wires and vacuum line and associated wire loom, etc.)
-With the cradle down and the steering rack out of the way, aligning the bell housing with the torque tube and input shaft took all of ten minutes. Really that simple. The alignment tabs on the torque tube take the guesswork out of it. I held the TTube up with another jack during the mating process, but once you get two bolts started removing the jack makes for much more room to work. You'll need it because the the wire loom running to the tranny has a metal brace that gets bolted up to with the pass. side TTube bolt and bellhousing bolt. I had my assistant push on the engine while it was still on the hoist to make room for my hands. Doable, but a bitch if you've got meathooks like me.
-With the Drivetrain together I re-installed the front cradle. Everything lined up perfectly; the motor mounts slipped right in. Now comes the sensors, intake manifold, ABS block and lines, new PS lines, radiators, AC hookup, wiring..o joy! Hey, it's the downhill run. Now that I don't need the garage door open it should be a balmy 30 deg. in the garage!
I'll be sure to get more pics while I drop various parts back in.
LS3 intake is on, took off the dress cover 'cuz I don't need it. LS2/3/6-to-LS1 adapters for the fuel injectors fit fine, click and play. Needed another adapter (thanks again, Lingenfelter) for the throttle body as well. Hooking up the wiring seems to be painless so far. Pro Tip: don't mount the starter motor before putting the engine in; makes getting to the crankshaft position sensor a pain.
Pics to come once the garage thaws out.
Q: for those before me; is there a lead/leads that go from the front harness back to the tranny/diff wiring? Or are those harnesses plugged in somewhere else?
12-13-2014, 04:57 PM
I have a similar set up. Now I did not do the work myself-I had this swap done by a shop here in PA however I do know they were able to transplant the motor mounts without issue. Only reason I know is because I had put new mounts on a couple of years before the LS1 went bad and they were able to reuse them without issue.
