LoneStarFRC

Plus, I'm thinking your choice to use a silicone hose, as opposed to common rubber, is much more heat resistant as well.

MetalMan2

Bumping this up... I came up with another variation of this method. Also inspired by this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...p1416-mod.html



It's a stock passenger-side AIR tube that was cut down. FYI I managed to remove the AIR tube from the car WITHOUT removing the intake manifold. Frankly it probably took less time than removing the IM, too. Here's what I did to achieve that:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1603858478

The AIR tube is cut at the end of the flat/straight section where the fitting is shown. Then a 14mm tube OD compression x 1/2" NPT fitting (McMaster-Carr P/N 4292N162) was tightened onto the cut AIR tube end (AIR tube OD is ~13.98mm).
Then the AIR tube was slightly bent up and away from the engine so that the check valve would clear the engine cover, and have good clearance from the air conditioning line below.

Attached to the check valve is a 90-degree 3/4" heater hose elbow (Gates P/N 28474), with the long leg shortened ~2" and that end inserted onto the check valve.
A Dorman P/N 47080 3/4"-->5/8" reducing connector goes into the heater hose elbow.
(both of these parts are available at most auto parts stores and Amazon)

Then a length of 5/8" heater hose from the auto parts store connects the reducing connector to the original splitter hard pipe.
I used a 5/8" or 3/4" cushion clamp bent a bit to secure the hard pipe to the firewall. (normally the hard pipe is somewhat supported by the stock-location passenger check valve and AIR tube, without extra support the hard pipe will flop around)