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C5 right hand air check valve mod

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Old 12-12-2014, 08:19 PM
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Aggopian
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Default C5 right hand air check valve mod

Came up with this mod. I based it on a mod I saw on YouTube. I removed the r.h. tube. Cut it at the second elbow. Bent the pipe out a bit. Braised a fitting on the end and screwed on the valve. I ran 5/8 hose behind the motor to the original T pipe from the air pump.
Hope this helps someone.
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Last edited by Aggopian; 12-12-2014 at 11:48 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 12-12-2014, 09:54 PM
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martysauto
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What it the benefit of this mod?
Old 12-12-2014, 10:10 PM
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old stingray
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Pics.?
Old 12-12-2014, 11:43 PM
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Aggopian
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Originally Posted by martysauto
What it the benefit of this mod?
Its just a way to relocate the right hand air pump check valve for easy access. To replace it normally would involve removing the intake etc.
Old 12-12-2014, 11:45 PM
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onspeed
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Sounds like pulling the intake would be faster...
Old 12-12-2014, 11:46 PM
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Aggopian
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Originally Posted by old stingray
Pics.?
Pic posted
Old 12-13-2014, 01:45 AM
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Aggopian
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Originally Posted by onspeed
Sounds like pulling the intake would be faster...
The whole job took less than an hour.
1 piece of 5/8 hose
1 pipe thread bushing
1 hose clamp

So it's cheap, fast and now the valve is serviceable should it fail again.
Old 12-13-2014, 09:58 AM
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vette747
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Originally Posted by Aggopian
The whole job took less than an hour.
1 piece of 5/8 hose
1 pipe thread bushing
1 hose clamp

So it's cheap, fast and now the valve is serviceable should it fail again.
I guess the answer is no if it took you less than 1 hour, but just to confirm, did you have to remove the intake in the first place to do that mod. I had to replace it once for code P1416 and had to remove the intake. After many many miles, code came back and I have to do it again. Removing the intake is not my favourite sport after also doing it for oil pressure sensor.

I tried to clean it as per Bill C. directions, but it did not work.
Old 12-13-2014, 11:11 AM
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Aggopian
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Originally Posted by vette747
I guess the answer is no if it took you less than 1 hour, but just to confirm, did you have to remove the intake in the first place to do that mod. I had to replace it once for code P1416 and had to remove the intake. After many many miles, code came back and I have to do it again. Removing the intake is not my favourite sport after also doing it for oil pressure sensor.

I tried to clean it as per Bill C. directions, but it did not work.

I did not have to pull the intake. I came up with this procedure with help from a YouTube Vid then changed it to my taste.
I left the original valve and the remainder of the cut pipe attached to the back of the motor. I made this mod in favor of pulling the intake and to make the valve easy to access.

Old 12-13-2014, 12:44 PM
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vette747
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Originally Posted by Aggopian
I did not have to pull the intake. I came up with this procedure with help from a YouTube Vid then changed it to my taste.
I left the original valve and the remainder of the cut pipe attached to the back of the motor. I made this mod in favor of pulling the intake and to make the valve easy to access.
Ok good. I see leaving the old one does the trick to avoid intake removal. From the picture you posted, it looks like, as opposed to what is shown in the video of having the new hoses running in front following the radiator, you have it routed to the back of the engine which I would prefer.

Thanks, something to add to my C5 to do list.
Old 12-13-2014, 04:39 PM
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When changing the exhaust manifold or header, instead of bending the air tube to get it out of the way the new short tube can be disconnected from the check valve. Good idea.
Old 12-13-2014, 10:52 PM
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ssrallyred
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My take? Delete all that crap which cleans up the engine bay a LOT and if you have to face emissions test like I did in Atlanta pay a tuner 50-100 bucks to turn those codes off Sorry that AIR crap looks like **** under the hood
Old 12-13-2014, 11:15 PM
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donald4972
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OP,
Can you post more pics of the hose routing, and where you T'd into the fitting on the other (driver) side?

thanks,
Don
Old 12-14-2014, 06:05 PM
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84REDCROSSFIRE
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Did the same as the OP. Works fine, and easier to replace the valve for next time.
Old 12-14-2014, 09:06 PM
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Russ K
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I would never do that to my, or a customers car. It's only 1.8 hrs flat rate to R & R the intake manifold. Then you can perform the GM TSB to add a silicone dam around the knock sensor wells to prevent water rusting & shorting out the knock sensors.

Russ Kemp
Old 12-17-2014, 09:11 AM
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3boystoys
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Originally Posted by Russ K
I would never do that to my, or a customers car. It's only 1.8 hrs flat rate to R & R the intake manifold. Then you can perform the GM TSB to add a silicone dam around the knock sensor wells to prevent water rusting & shorting out the knock sensors.

Russ Kemp
And once you pull the intake once and see how RIDICULOUSLY EASY it is, you would never consider a hack like this. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to pull the intake after you've done it once.
Old 12-17-2014, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
I would never do that to my, or a customers car. It's only 1.8 hrs flat rate to R & R the intake manifold. Then you can perform the GM TSB to add a silicone dam around the knock sensor wells to prevent water rusting & shorting out the knock sensors.

Russ Kemp
Originally Posted by 3boystoys
And once you pull the intake once and see how RIDICULOUSLY EASY it is, you would never consider a hack like this. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to pull the intake after you've done it once.
Even if I agree, cleaning the heads and intake takes some time. It is not so much a matter of time. Actually, I'm always afraid some sand or particle fall in the intake or exhaust port even if I use compress air to blow everything before I start and put rags in the ports. We should also put new seals. I guess it is a personal choice.

But reading all the replies, I'm kind of changing my mind and I have not decided if I will do the mod or remove the intake....


Last edited by vette747; 12-17-2014 at 09:55 AM.

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Old 12-19-2014, 11:16 AM
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RedZMonte
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I did basically the same with mine.. I added one on the passenger side when i did my LS7 Exhaust Manfiolds. I Have the original still in place, but i did get a brass fitting and silicone hose to "Delete" the one behind the manifold if i ever remove the intake i will do the delete then.

I have corrected the angle on the pipe so its straight now and had to make custom fittings for the LS7 manifolds. But i did the install on the car, Cut the pipe on the car and put it all on without removing anything.
Old 12-19-2014, 11:19 AM
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3boystoys
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Originally Posted by RedZMonte
I did basically the same with mine.. I added one on the passenger side when i did my LS7 Exhaust Manfiolds. I Have the original still in place, but i did get a brass fitting and silicone hose to "Delete" the one behind the manifold if i ever remove the intake i will do the delete then.

I have corrected the angle on the pipe so its straight now and had to make custom fittings for the LS7 manifolds. But i did the install on the car, Cut the pipe on the car and put it all on without removing anything.
How is that hose going to hold up to the heat?
Old 12-19-2014, 12:07 PM
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Aggopian
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
How is that hose going to hold up to the heat?
The heat is in the manifold side of the check valve. Exhaust gas doesnt get to the hose to heat it. The check valve is one way flow toward the manifold and stops exhaust gas from getting to the hoses or air pump.


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