C5 No start/diagnosis
#22
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It's how I read 11.9 volts with the key in the ignition with accessories on but as soon as I cranked the key there was no voltage.
#23
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I would and should but with my aunt having a stroke recently, I'm helping my family financially.
The fortunate thing is labor isn't an arm and a leg for me; we own the Chevy dealer next door. However getting an appointment is tough because our service lane is always full and there are only a few number of Corvette techs.
The fortunate thing is labor isn't an arm and a leg for me; we own the Chevy dealer next door. However getting an appointment is tough because our service lane is always full and there are only a few number of Corvette techs.
#24
Le Mans Master
I would and should but with my aunt having a stroke recently, I'm helping my family financially.
The fortunate thing is labor isn't an arm and a leg for me; we own the Chevy dealer next door. However getting an appointment is tough because our service lane is always full and there are only a few number of Corvette techs.
The fortunate thing is labor isn't an arm and a leg for me; we own the Chevy dealer next door. However getting an appointment is tough because our service lane is always full and there are only a few number of Corvette techs.
#25
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Just like our Dodge store; there is only one tech that is certified to work on Vipers. There are only two that work on Corvettes at our Chevy store.
It's a pain living 30+minutes away from anything in any direction. This includes my own family.
I'm just tired of taking my fiance's car everytime the Corvette acts up so I'm boiling down the issue and wanting to get it done before OR at the dealer.
Just fiddled with the key (on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off) and it fired up.
Thanks Bill! I'm convinced it's the ignition switch.
#26
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Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When you un-plug the Ignition switch,, Examine BOTH female connectors and look for damaged, bent, spread female pins. If you find any,, repair the pins before you proceed!
Yes, the switch could be defictive. Repair or replace.
BC
Yes, the switch could be defictive. Repair or replace.
BC
#27
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Replaced the ignition switch; car fires up with every turn of the key.
Something did come up though. I now have the SERVICE COLUMN message however the difference is my steering wheel doesn't lock up nor does it ask me to pull the key and wait for 10 seconds. I reset my codes and the message appeared again after turning the car off and on.
Any ideas? Everything was plugged in correctly and nothing is acting up.
Something did come up though. I now have the SERVICE COLUMN message however the difference is my steering wheel doesn't lock up nor does it ask me to pull the key and wait for 10 seconds. I reset my codes and the message appeared again after turning the car off and on.
Any ideas? Everything was plugged in correctly and nothing is acting up.
#29
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Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
As soon as you get the message,,, (WITHOUT turning off the igniition switch) press reset to clear all the messages and then read the DTCs (ENGINE RUNNING). Post what ever DTCs come up.
BC
BC
#30
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Anyone need a non-working ignition switch? good for dissecting.
#31
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Ordered an LCM5 CLB today after getting the dreaded SERVICE COLUMN LOCK again.
My column doesn't lock up fortunately, but the car did die at 2mph 4 different times. Cleared the codes and I pulled fuse #25 but I guess I didn't wait the 10 minutes I should have.
Anyway the car's at home and fires up and drives without fail. Figured the LCM5 might prevent future SCL issues again.
My column doesn't lock up fortunately, but the car did die at 2mph 4 different times. Cleared the codes and I pulled fuse #25 but I guess I didn't wait the 10 minutes I should have.
Anyway the car's at home and fires up and drives without fail. Figured the LCM5 might prevent future SCL issues again.
#32
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Looks like my starter solenoid or wiring in between is acting up again.
I know that's the culprit because prior to replacing my ignition switch I was getting 0 volts across fuse #14 during key-cranking. Now I have full voltage going across during crank but my car won't start.
Least I replaced my shocks with new Bilstein's across all corners as well as new aluminum sway bar end links.
I know that's the culprit because prior to replacing my ignition switch I was getting 0 volts across fuse #14 during key-cranking. Now I have full voltage going across during crank but my car won't start.
Least I replaced my shocks with new Bilstein's across all corners as well as new aluminum sway bar end links.