benspeeder

Update:
Got the new ignition switch arriving in a day or so. Also sent out the EBCM to be tested and repaired.

I may have an independent shop to the install of both and test if problem not corrected. Will let folks know what happens. Thanks again everybody. (I recognize this may not ID if the switch was the culprit causing the EBCM issue but see this all as preventative maintenance. I also recognize that the EBCM may not be broken but the fix with shipping is $71 - worth the try to me.)

benspeeder

That was a good tip by the way!!!

dannyman

If you're interested in furthering the emphasis on acquisition of critical replacement parts, then cast a vote for GM response to the same question.

Click on the link and cast a vote for C5 parts, to make this the topic of the week;


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...an-2015-a.html

benspeeder

Hi sorry for the slow update. Parts are in - got a new ignition switch and the Ebcm is back from MAS. Repair is guaranteed :-) we shall see!

My question is - shall I install the EBCM first and see if that is the fix? Or, should I do the ignition switch to cure the low volts and then install the EBCM?

I want to install the EBCM first to see if that was it, then the ignition as preventative maintenance. But want to confirm that low volts will not hurt the "repaired" EBCM. Plan is to do the job this Saturday.

Thanks!!!

ledesordre

Nice, I hope these parts resolve it. I suspect they will. honestly you want to do the ignition switch first. You want to make sure you get 12+ V of power at the ebcm connector before you put on the new module (which the ignition switch effects) IMO a bad idea to be risking the repaired module by under powering it.

dadaroo

I also agree to verify good voltage first. Did they say what was wrong they fixed?

benspeeder

Gotcha fellas - ignition switch first! I will be sure to post up the results. When I put the switch in I will first check all the volts to see a anticipated improvement. Then the EBCM.
Cheers

dan1546

I had the same codes and tcs no comm. checked all the grounds and connectors. Ended up having to get a new ebcm which fixed the problem.

Did you get a new ebcm or did you have yours repaired and sent back to you? If the latter you will have the same problem. There is no repair for the no comm code just the c1214 tcs code. Hope everything works out for you.

benspeeder

No updates - kids and to do lists killed the weekend.

Hi Dan1546 - cost me $70 on the EBCM "fix" with a guaranteed money back promise. We'll see!

benspeeder

No comment on what they fixed fingers crossed

benspeeder

Going to do the job this weekend - wish me luck!

benspeeder

Failure

Car goes to east coast supercharger who did the motor and chassis work.

Thanks for all the help and will report the final fix!

ledesordre

benspeeder

So the thread has been dormant as the snow. A forum member turned me onto a source of brand new ebcm units on Amazon

The price went down to $550 and there are two left so I bought one and will try that! Also requested a refund from the repair company on my old ebcm - any bets I get my $59 back??

I figure I can spend that much in diagnosis so let's shake the dice and see if this will do the trick! Looks like I can return it.

Will update when I put the new one in.

benspeeder

The happy ending! The Ebcm was the problem. Installed the new unit and all is well, competitive mode works and no codes! Took me 90 minutes to do the swap and then needed to clear the codes. When I first installed the abs light cleared but. Traction did not. I then cleared codes on the DIC and now it is good to go.

I did not change the ignition switch. While voltage did seem to test low, I had no symptoms besides the ebcm being bad. I did buy a new ignition switch for when the time comes.

What I conclude is that when a Z06 has a battery replaced and especially when a very dead battery is charged in the car, these events seems to lead up to an EBCM failure. Charging a very dead battery can potentially damage sensitive electronics is my supposition.

It was very cool to have the help of deselordre and 8vette7. D - I bought my unit from the same vendor on Amazon you recommended - thanks! This diy job saved me a $1000 I bet!!!

Corvettes rock

benspeeder

PS - MyAirbags is awesome. They did refund me when the ebcm repair did not solve the problem. Trustworthy company and fast service and customer support.

dadaroo

With regard to your comment on battery charging here is what I tell people.

If you charge a dead battery in the car DISCONNECT the negative cable first. Normal car chargers produce DC square waves that can pound the electronics and damage them. A really dead battery cannot filter these. If a battery is just a little low there is no concern


A car charger may not be as sophisticated as the ones in a computer based on the design for replicating a true DC voltage.

benspeeder

Yes, this is one of the many things I learned on this little project! Good post

Its_JJ

I have an 01 Coupe that had a dead battery. Charged battery and reinstalled. Service Engine soon, ABS,and traction lights came on. Also had a P1251 code. Test battery and it didn't have good load (12.3-5) bought new battery but code and warning lights still present. DIC won't let me reset codes, keeps returning. No problems prior to battery dying. Any suggestions?

Its_JJ

Yes, I attempted to clear code through DIC but it keeps returning. The ABS and Active handling lights continue to stay lit. The battery is on a full charge as well. No mods to car. Like I said there was no problems until the battery died