vegas99

If I go over a significant bump none of the switches on the driver’s door would work i.e. windows, seat memory, locks until I went over another bump. Then the door lock stopped working using either key Fob after going over a bump. I figured it was the door module but due to cost almost $600.00 from Eckler’s wasn't sure I wanted to replace it without being 100% sure.

I had taken the car into the dealer they kept it for three days told me they could not find anything wrong and billed me $60.00. I found a used module online for $60.00 and decided to give it a try. Once installed it corrected all my problems for about a month until I drove the car using my key Fob #2. The car worked ok until the next day when my wife drove it using her Fob #1 she got 2 blocks from the house and the car went crazy she got every error the DIC can display i.e. Shocks inop, reduce engine speed, check engine, radio quit, gas gage went to empty, the seat and steering wheel went to the exit position while driving. She stopped the car turned it off waited a few minutes then started it again and it seemed to be ok.

Once the car was turned off and then driven again with fob #1 it would be ok. It doesn't happen every time it's been about 3 out of 5 time and always after we use fob 2 then go back to using fob 1. I have reprogramed both fobs and disconnected the battery to hopefully clear any computer faults without luck. The last time I used fob 2 it opened the car doors and while driving the DIC displayed all the errors again, gas gage went to empty and the radio quit. When we got home the fob would not work the doors or the trunk and nothing work on the driver’s door with the inside switch panel.

The only thing I can think of is there is a problem with the used door module but I can't figure out what that has to do with the other car errors displayed in DIC. Any Ideas???

We’ve had the car since 2003 and had a number of electrical issues we’ve already replaced the driver’s door module once by the dealer, RT headlight motor, RT window motor and the dealer said the DIC motherboard is cracked after we had them check it because I noticed that if we went over a pretty good bump it would blink off and on real quick. The dealer recommended that we don’t replace it unless it quits working due to the cost involved.

Last the turn signals quit working I did the trick about turning on the flashers and leaving them on for about an hour which got the relay working again. I ordered a new one but haven’t put it in yet due to the time that’s required to install it and its location, thank you GM.

This was my wife’s dream car now she can’t stand to drive it.

Johnny wangwang

From my research/reading it sounds like you have either a wire loose at the door or one of the pins is damaged or not contacting in a connector sometimes. Check the door to body connections.

v98roadie

Your issue sounds exactly like one I had right after I bought the car and it turned out a wire in the harness was broken and shorting. Once it was found and fixed I've had zero issues with the drive door controls. I think the previous owner probably sold the car due to that very issue and failed to mention it (imagine that).

vegas99

Do you remember which harness (DCM) and where, maybe it's a common failure. The dealer said they checked the BCM, SCM, Door Module, fuse box and wires and told me everything checked out ok.
I Think they punted, it's pretty bad when we have to fix their failures with the help of others.

vegas99

Thanks for all the great info. This car had only 10,000 miles when we bought it 2003 and it only has about 45,000 now. 35,000 In 11+ years is way to few for the problems we've had.

dadaroo

The door module is fairly robust from the issue of "bumps". I think your issue is the connector at the A-pillar.

Here is some info. Look at the second picture and the associated write up.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-there-is.html

dadaroo

Now here is some info on your turn signal Hazard switch:

Here are 4 ways to fix a turn signal Hazard switch issue.

1. Remove the console and radio surround bezel and remove and replace the Hazard switch. Cost about $25 for a new switch and can be done in about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Very easy to do, not hard or really complicated.

After removing the console and radio bezel you need to remove the radio. If you look at your replacement switch you will see the 2 green tabs on the top and bottom that lock it in place. You will be able to see the lower one when the radio is removed. Push up on the lower tab with a screwdriver while pressing in on the lower part of the switch and you can release the lower tab. Now the switch should be angled up on the end where the wiring connects. Now take a large flat bladed screw driver and place it at the top of the switch. Give the screwdriver a swift rap with a hammer. DON’T overdo it, just a reasonable hard hit and the switch will just pop out.

How to remove the console and bezel for access to the radio:

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html

If you have a manual transmission you can totally remove the radio bezel very easily to allow better access. No need to remove the shifter ****. Just pop the shifter boot loose and rotate it and it will allow you to lift the bezel up and over the shift boot and shifter ****.

2. Buy a Hyperflash unit for about $65 and install it under the dash. Just requires removing the Knee bolster. About a 1/2 hour job.

3. Buy a used wiring harness that goes from the steering column to the hazard switch. Remove the knee bolster and unplug the existing one and install the replacement. Then install the new Hazard switch on the other end and just place it under the ignition switch where you can access it if you ever need Hazards. Dash will look stock since the old bad switch is still there. Cost is 25$ for switch and about 25$ for used harness. Takes the same time as installing a Hyperflash unit.

Here is info on the wiring harness:

GM P/N 12163776

http://www.corvetterecycling.com/product-p/233776.htm


4. Lastly, this is what I did. A relocation similar to #3 but I used the process in #1 to move the existing wiring harness to beneath the ignition switch where I placed a new Hazard switch. I then reinstalled the old Hazard switch in the dash for a stock appearance.

Here is a link for relocation:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...elocation.html

vegas99

Thanks for the help If you are referring to the picture of the yellow corvette I intend to check that connection today as I pulled the door panel yesterday to visually inspect the DCM. I agree with your comment about the module being robust.

Additional info the original module was replaced by the dealer on 11/04 because the door lock would only work using the key Fob they reported the module was non operational.

Since the replacement we had no issues until mid 2014. Ten years of bliss. The problem just kept getting worse it started with none of the switches working like no power to the DCM. Then the Fob would not unlock the drivers door (only) that's when I purchased the used DCM

My wife drives the car to work everyday and takes the same route she would lock the car in the morning everything would be fine then nothing would work in the evening or would quit on the drive home. Sometimes it would quit on the drive to work it became very annoying .

We could go over bump and everything would work again go over the same bump and nothing would work. That's where the bump theory came from and I understand it could also indicate a connector problem but here's the kicker. After I installed the used DCM we had no problems for over a month under the same driving conditions and before the installation it was almost a daily issue. The problem didn't start until we started switching Fobs it was like the car got confused.

I noticed yesterday that the part# of the DCM the dealer installed was 10342159 manufactured in 2004. The used one was 09352881 no date stamp. I did a Bing search and as far as I can tell the used unit is a 1997-1998 version. I searched again to see the difference and one of CF members said he thought the 09325881 is for non memory cars and 10342159 was for cars with the memory function. Nowhere could I find that to be 100% accurate but if that is true that would explain why we have problems when we switch Fobs and the car tries to access the memory info. It works the seat, mirrors and steering column move until the original fobs is used again and that's when it go's ballistic with error codes.

Does anyone know for sure if that is correct info about the different part#? I didn't known I also had to know GM Part numbers to get the right part for my car as both numbers say they are for a C5 corvette.

92GA

I have a 99 with memory package and it has 09352881 drivers module. I replaced it with the same part number right after I bought the car 3 years ago. Then I had a fellow from work replace all the relays in the original. Haven't put it back in yet as my used one works perfect. I'd start by replacing the module with the correct one, there is plenty on ebay. If the wires in the door post aren't making good connections, they will cause all kinds of problems. I'd look at the connections in both door post, then replace with the correct module or repair the original.

I just did a quick search on ebay and there are several left door modules with different part numbers. Some may be for cars without the memory package, and some may be for later cars. The cars with out memory may be able to use the memory module and may be not who knows for sure. I'd still replace it with the same part number you originally removed.

vegas99

Thanks for your response about the part numbers. GM replaced my drivers door module with part# 10342159 in 2004. Eckler's also list the part# as 10342159 for a 2001-2004 and the DCM has a tag on the circuit board that reads 04 DCM drivers door

When you Google part# 09352881 & 09389689 they also come up as a C5 DCM however the first one usually lists as a 97-98 where the number you provides lists 97-04

I worked as a mechanic for several years and know the day month and year my car was made. I also understand that sometimes you have to provide the vin# to get the right part between model runs.

Now I have 3 different part numbers for a C5 door module but I think I'm going to stay with the one the dealer installed that worked fine for 11 years

I just put the used module back in and discovered the when the door is all the way open everything works and if the door is half open or closed nothing works. I'm on my way to removing the boot between the door and door jam to see what's going on. I believe I'm going to find something like the pictures displayed in an earlier reply

92GA

The connection is in the pillar, but you may have broken wire.

Johnny wangwang

Good stuff. Your making progress! Hopefully its an easy fix for you

v98roadie

I don't remember the particular harness because I didn't actually find it, a local Vette expert found it. I could ask him but it looks like your getting all the help you need already! Good luck!

vegas99

Thank You and thank everyone that responded to my plea for help. I was almost ready to replace the module again but wanted to check the connections before I did that. I checked for water intrusion but everything was dry but I was pretty sure what I had was an electrical problem.

After I installed the old module yesterday and it worked door open but not with the door closed I knew I had to check the connector in the pictures. I was difficult from me to understand that being the problem but when I disconnected the black plug I became a believer. 3 of my female connectors looked like the picture including the center one described in the picture

I used a piece of a metal coat hanger from the backside of the pin to reduce the gap. No dental pick on hand but you could also use an icepick mine had a broken point and would not fit in the pin, maybe that was a good thing.

I had found a copy of the post supplied by 8VETTE7 when we first started having this problem and before I purchased the used module but didn't understand how a connection that is never touched in the 13 years we've had the car could be the problem and the used module was cheap and easy fix. The post I found steered you to the clear coated silver wire so I'm glad that has been updated in this new version.

I installed the original module replaced in 04 glad I kept it and everything works under all conditions so far. Sometimes the first reply to a post is best.

One more time Thanks Again to All that responded
Next up hazard flasher install

vegas99

Thanks for the 2nd link you sent in your response it was the perfect fit and dead on the money. I still have a hard time accepting that was the problem but seeing is believing

92GA

Glad you got it fixed. What number module did you end up with? Electrical gremlins can drive you crazy. My car had plenty when I bought it, I believe that's why the guy sold it to me. I've learned a lot on electrical since I bought mine.

vegas99

And this is Chevy's flagship and Americas sports car. I had higher expectations...good thing it's the wife's car, however I really like the look of the new Stingray. Not sure I'd own another.

I installed the 10342159 that the dealer installed in 04. The number of yours is the same as the used one I got from eBay and still works but it is for a 97-99

You can really tell a difference the 09352881 uses old style resistors on the circuit board where the 10342159 uses a flat little resistors and looks more solid state even though they both are.

Like you I think that's why we were able to buy this one 1 year old and only 10,000 miles for a good price. I already did the headlight motor rebuild besides the other stuff I listed and I highly recommend it if your headlight run for a few seconds when raised or lowered. Can't believe they used a plastic gear driven by a metal gear and didn't think it would be a problem.

dadaroo

Glad you found the issue. The C5 does have several issues that seem to plague a number of cars. However, they are known like the connector you fixed and the Hazard switch, ignition switch, etc. Based on symptoms we can usually tell what the problem is based on the vast experience here. Some issue require a little more diagnostics.

The C5 is still a great bang for the buck.

vegas99

Thank you I hope it's fixed forever. I respect the members here and the vast amount of knowledge. That's why I came here, it was apparent the dealer was not going to fix this problem and I didn't want to keep guessing until I stumbled on it.

We've had this car since 2003 and will have it for life but that doesn't mean we feel the same about it as the day we drove it home. We've had almost every electrical issue known on this site and the one's we haven't I wonder if their next. When I spend this kind of money I'm not looking for obscure problems that need to be addressed. I'm looking for a great car not just in appearance but mechanically superior as well, maybe we got the 1 out 1000 that's pledged with problems but that's how opinions are formed.

Our other car is 9 years old. We paid about $6000.00 less than what we paid for the Corvette put over 65,000 hard miles on it and haven't even replaced a light bulb. I liked it so much this is my third and my first one I had for 10 years and 130,000 miles. The only reason I've had three was to change body styles.

I don't mean to offend anyone with my negative comments about our corvette but it is hard to be positive about the car when you've had the problems we've had in 35,000 miles. Bang for the buck for me means no additional repairs outside normal maintenance but that's me