Sinister-one

I have found several threads referring to the BMW couplers.
I'm getting ready to redo my clutch and figured I'd replace the couplers while the torque tube is out.

Which would you guys recommend, BMW or GM OEM couplers ?

Also, can a solid aluminum coupler be used at either end ?

Patches

Upgraded my drive shaft recently with poly and solid couplers and an LG carbon fiber drive shaft.

Stocker


Poly and sold couplers


New assembly


Poly coupler


Solid coupler


One of the stock giubos - personally, I would do new GM couplers if I were going that route.

Sinister-one

So would you recommend the poly / solid coupler combo.... OR just got back stock / BMW couplers ?

Patches

If you're stock, I'd stay with GM couplers. I'm going FI, thus the upgrade.

Sinister-one

only bolt-on upgrades.... Vararam, LS2 intake, headers, cam....

Patches

Definitely GM couplers, then.

Sinister-one

Thank you VERY much for your help and input senior !!

04tripleblkcoupe

Patches would u happen to know rear bearing housing diameter ? Fixing to replace those bearing. Any help would be appreciated.

Patches

I believe I have replacement bearings at home. I can either give you dimensions or part numbers.

968ls1

04tripleblkcoupe-I have a new set of NTN rear TT bearings if you need some, $80 for the pair. I am in B'ham and pass through Montgomery on business quite often.

LoneStarFRC

GM couplers FTW!

For the type of work you're doing Ray, you'd notice a definite increase in annoying NVH if you used solids, etc..

I also look at it this way, if the (genuine) GM units are good enough for a factory ZR1, they're good enough for the vast majority of C5s, even those with some more serious mods.

HTH

04tripleblkcoupe

I have the bearings and all I just need to know the rear bearing housing diameter the part that bolts to the rear bell housing so when I go to press out the bearing I can sit it inside of a tube per say to push the shaft out , if that makes since.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps686109ff.jpg

Sinister-one

Ordered a set of OEM coupler kits....

LoneStarFRC

Also, as long as your old bolts are good, I'd recommend doing a thorough job of cleaning the threads of all remnants of the thread locker. A decent wire brush along with some acetone (for dissolving the TL) works well. I'd also run a thread chaser through to clean the internal threads. Reapply some fresh TL and your good when torquing them down.

Patches

This is what I did.

04tripleblkcoupe, sorry but the drive shaft is already back in the car so I can't measure the housing ID.

LoneStarFRC

https://www.motionindustries.com/pro...p?sku=00048573

OD = 68 mm
ID = 40 mm

Sinister-one

How's it going buddy... long time no hear from you !

The coupler kits I ordered come with bolts. Should I just clean up and reuse the old one ?

LoneStarFRC

Pretty fair. Looks like you're continuing to have fun with your ride(s) over there in SA! I see your posts here quite frequently.



It's really dependent on the condition of your old ones. According to what he said, Patches cleaned up and reused his, and from the pix he posted I thought they were new! A wire wheel chucked up in an electric drill, and liberal use of acetone, really goes a long way in removing/dissolving the old thread-locker material and running a thread chaser in the female holes to ensure they're clean is also important.

Personally, I used new ones last time when I installed my DSS 3" aluminum drive shaft, as my old ones were in a sketchy state. I also installed three new bearings and oil slinger as well.

Sinister-one

Okay heres another option question.....

Since Patches installed an aluminum coupler at the rearend section of the TT and a poly coupler at the other end........

How would a poly coupler at the rearend section of the TT and an OEM coupler at the other end work ??

Just curious.....

LoneStarFRC

I think part of the answer to that question would, to some degree, depend on your NVH tolerance. Of course your hp levels and intended usage are obvious factors too.

Also, keep in mind Ed has chosen a CF drive shaft, and this may play a part as well (torsional stiffness, etc).

It might be best for him to answer that.