Rough idle when WARM, what should I be looking at first?
01-30-2015, 01:53 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Rough idle when WARM, what should I be looking at first?
Car is idling rough but only when its warmed up. Its like a dip/stutter every 1-3 seconds. Drives fine otherwise, smooth when I accelerate. I replaced the plugs and wires - no change. Cleaned the MAF and it seemed to help for a little while but now its back and appears to be getting worse. Any other "easy" fixes I should try before having someone more experienced try and diagnose?
01-30-2015, 02:41 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
These are all the codes that are pulled from my DIC, both H and C. I only have one current code for my TPMS that recently stopped working. The stuttering idle started before this. So you recommend heading over to O'reillys or autozone and having them hook it up?
RFA
C2120 H C
BCM
B2578 H
B2583 H
SDM
U1301 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
IPC
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
U1040 H
U1088 H
U1176 H
U1160 H
RADIO
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
HVAC
B0363 H
LDCM
B2252 H
B2282 H
B2284 H
U1064 H
RDCM
B2283 H
B2285 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
RFA
C2120 H C
BCM
B2578 H
B2583 H
SDM
U1301 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
IPC
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
U1040 H
U1088 H
U1176 H
U1160 H
RADIO
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
HVAC
B0363 H
LDCM
B2252 H
B2282 H
B2284 H
U1064 H
RDCM
B2283 H
B2285 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
01-31-2015, 06:01 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
H codes are a history of events that have occurred and should NOT be ignored. Further most C codes get converted to H codes when the ignition is turned off and a few C codes can disappear altogether.
In your case you have so many codes that it is difficult to make a lot of sense out of them.
I would go to the parts store and let them read the emissions standardized code FIRST and then do the steps below......
I suggest that you clear ALL the codes and then take the car for a ride. When you return pull all your codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you will need to use the reset key to clear any messages in the DIC first and then pull the codes as before. Codes that come back are the ones you need to be concerned with.
If you clear codes before going to the parts store they will find some ready conditions that get set due to clearing codes. These ready conditions will clear themselves after a few drives. But you may also clear any other codes that the parts store will be able to see (if any are set).
Post back here what codes return......
You have a lot of Uxxxx codes. These could be old codes or may be indicative of other issues. If you clear everything and many come back we will have a place to start. I would also have the battery load tested and battery cables checked while at the parts place. Some of your codes indicate a possible battery related issue. Battery issues can cause ALL sorts of crazy symptoms..
In your case you have so many codes that it is difficult to make a lot of sense out of them.
I would go to the parts store and let them read the emissions standardized code FIRST and then do the steps below......
I suggest that you clear ALL the codes and then take the car for a ride. When you return pull all your codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you will need to use the reset key to clear any messages in the DIC first and then pull the codes as before. Codes that come back are the ones you need to be concerned with.
If you clear codes before going to the parts store they will find some ready conditions that get set due to clearing codes. These ready conditions will clear themselves after a few drives. But you may also clear any other codes that the parts store will be able to see (if any are set).
Post back here what codes return......
You have a lot of Uxxxx codes. These could be old codes or may be indicative of other issues. If you clear everything and many come back we will have a place to start. I would also have the battery load tested and battery cables checked while at the parts place. Some of your codes indicate a possible battery related issue. Battery issues can cause ALL sorts of crazy symptoms..
The only code that came up after that ride was: HVAC B0446
Im sure its coincidence but the car seemed to idle a little better afterwards. I'll wait until after it idles rough again and pull codes to see if anything pops up. It did start smoking a little bit today though; I think I have a main seal leak so I imagine thats what caused that. Not thick smoke, very thin. Could it be related to the idle possibly?
01-31-2015, 06:41 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
01-31-2015, 08:06 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Next time it happens Ill look very closely. Since it was so thin it could have been anywhere from blue to white - could have appeared gray if it was really "blue" since it wasn't very thick. Plus I'm colorblind, which doesnt help me out!
01-31-2015, 08:16 PM
#7
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Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When your engine is COLD,, its running a little richer and running on an OPEN LOOP table. When its warm it uses the O2 Sensors and runs on CLOSED LOOP.
There are a couple of things I would check first:
Look for a Vacuum Leak! The PCV fittings and plumbing are a common source of a leak.
Look for the introduction of Un-Metered Air: The air ducting between the MAF and the Throttle Body MUST be sealed. I use starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray around the joints. If the idle changes,,,, theres a leak. You can also use an UN LIT propane torch. The gas will easily enter any leak and change the idle.
You can purchase an inexpensive scanner. I would get a CAN BUSS Compliant scanner that can monitor and display REAL TIME Sensor Data.. (you can use it on other newer cars) Use it to read your O2 Sensor data and Long Term Fuel Trims. The fuel trims should be near zero and will tell you a lot.
Bill
There are a couple of things I would check first:
Look for a Vacuum Leak! The PCV fittings and plumbing are a common source of a leak.
Look for the introduction of Un-Metered Air: The air ducting between the MAF and the Throttle Body MUST be sealed. I use starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray around the joints. If the idle changes,,,, theres a leak. You can also use an UN LIT propane torch. The gas will easily enter any leak and change the idle.
You can purchase an inexpensive scanner. I would get a CAN BUSS Compliant scanner that can monitor and display REAL TIME Sensor Data.. (you can use it on other newer cars) Use it to read your O2 Sensor data and Long Term Fuel Trims. The fuel trims should be near zero and will tell you a lot.
Bill
01-31-2015, 10:42 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
When your engine is COLD,, its running a little richer and running on an OPEN LOOP table. When its warm it uses the O2 Sensors and runs on CLOSED LOOP.
There are a couple of things I would check first:
Look for a Vacuum Leak! The PCV fittings and plumbing are a common source of a leak.
Look for the introduction of Un-Metered Air: The air ducting between the MAF and the Throttle Body MUST be sealed. I use starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray around the joints. If the idle changes,,,, theres a leak. You can also use an UN LIT propane torch. The gas will easily enter any leak and change the idle.
You can purchase an inexpensive scanner. I would get a CAN BUSS Compliant scanner that can monitor and display REAL TIME Sensor Data.. (you can use it on other newer cars) Use it to read your O2 Sensor data and Long Term Fuel Trims. The fuel trims should be near zero and will tell you a lot.
Bill
There are a couple of things I would check first:
Look for a Vacuum Leak! The PCV fittings and plumbing are a common source of a leak.
Look for the introduction of Un-Metered Air: The air ducting between the MAF and the Throttle Body MUST be sealed. I use starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray around the joints. If the idle changes,,,, theres a leak. You can also use an UN LIT propane torch. The gas will easily enter any leak and change the idle.
You can purchase an inexpensive scanner. I would get a CAN BUSS Compliant scanner that can monitor and display REAL TIME Sensor Data.. (you can use it on other newer cars) Use it to read your O2 Sensor data and Long Term Fuel Trims. The fuel trims should be near zero and will tell you a lot.
Bill