Umrswimr

After countless track days and autocross events, the inevitable happened: A long sweeping left hand corner (Big Bend) at Motorsports Ranch in Cresson finally did the motor in. I've taken the corner hundreds of times without issue, but this time the low oil pressure light came on....

Back in the pits the car started knocking like mad and oil pressure is down to 15psi, so it's time to pull the engine. I'm guessing at least one main is toast and probably rod bearings too. I'll know more when I get the motor out. Assuming the block is salvageable, what are the budget options available? The car gets driven infrequently (80k miles on a 2000) and maybe 1-2 track days a year, so I really don't feel like spending a ton of cash. Yeah, I know the "while I'm in there" temptation, but I'd rather not. If I add power (383 stroker, etc), the stock LS1 heads will need to be modified or replaced, the LS6 intake won't be sufficient, and the LS6 clutch will need to go. Not feeling that ambitious.

Realistically is it worth it to do all the machine work to rebuild it, or just buy a short block from any number of places and swap my heads over?

ledesordre

Sorry to hear that! Curious to see what other folks say about this.

Ludeaem

Just curious if you put an extra quart in before events?

Umrswimr

I have an external oil cooler with a thermostat, so my oil capacity is somewhat ambiguous. When checked before the event, the oil was above the hash marks on the dipstick.

I'll be installing an accusump going forward.

Ray 2000 C5 FRC

First off you need to determine the extent of the damage by pulling the engine out and closely examining ALL the key engine components. Worse case the metal filings circulated throughout the entire engine and the cam, lifters, cylinders etc., could be damaged. The other possibility is that your oil pump failed and the pressure is low.

So what to do first, drain and collect the oil and examine the condition. Better yet, have a sample sent out for analysis and see what type of material is present. While that is being done, pull off the oil pump and see if it is "toast". The 2000 LS1 oil pumps are weak. Once you have the pump out go ahead and pull the cam out to see the condition of the lobes. If that is also damaged, you have the option to get that same block rebuilt or just buy a long block and do a plug n play.

Wish you the best,
Ray

CaseyJones

I'd just buy a short block from a reputable shop or rebuilder unless you really want to go through all the ins-and-outs of a full rebuild. Perhaps you could find a low mileage replacement from a place like AES.

I recently went through the same thing you are experiencing with my 1980 Corvette. I wanted to clone a 350/350HP motor so I bought a beefed up short block through Jeg's from a company named Blueprint. Then I added a cam and lifters of my choosing and a good top end package along with the usual oil pump/chain set and all the other miscellaneous bits and pieces necessary to make a good running engine. It turned out surprisingly well.

Umrswimr

I'm kind thinking the same... Buy a short block and just move my stuff over. $2800 for an iron 6L or $4k for an iron stroker:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...rentProductId=
http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...rentProductId=

ZZ06

My vote is for a short block. No worries on proper balance. Swap your salvageable parts over and have fun with it.

VGLNTE1

Buy a short. Don't mess with the time, and headache of machining. Along with having all the parts checked to make sure they are even usable still.

Umrswimr

$4300 gets me a SDPC 383 stroker. Am I making a mistake by bolting stock LS1 heads and and LS6 intake to this? I might be able to find some cash to P-P the heads, but new heads are out of the question. A FAST 90/90 is entirely too spendy. As it stands I'll be into this for $5k with new gaskets, bolts, oil pump, etc... Do I need injectors? (any chance the LSA injectors from my '09 CTS-V will work?)
Cam recommendations if I go with the 383? I'm looking for reliability and drivability. I don't want to be replacing springs every 3k miles or dealing with surging/poor idle, etc.

VGLNTE1

I've been running my scoggin 416 for 7 years now. Been a champ. With a 383 you can Def put your stock heads and intake on. stock injectors should be fine. Especially if you keep the stock heads, but change the springs for sure. Tune will tell. Keep the cam small. 230/230 ish. Keep the lift down if it's for road racing. Don't go above .600. 4300 seems like A bit much for a 383 though. Didnt they have a 346 for about 3500$?

Johnny wangwang

Why are you guessing whats wrong with the motor? Take it apart and See unless you have more money then time. Why would a main be spun just because its knocking?

Id rather polish a crank, buy a new rod, and some bearings and upgrade some things rather then just buy another short block. A spun bearing isnt the end of the world for a motor.

Ray 2000 C5 FRC

Umrswimr

I'm just reviewing my options. Obviously I'll tear it apart and see what can be done, but this would be the worst-case situation where the block/crank either cannot be reused or would require significant work/complication/cost.

Additionally, it's important for me to understand the cost difference between replacing the short block versus machine work, new bearings, rods, balancing, etc. The former will clearly cost more, but the latter requires significantly more labor. Since I've never rebuilt a motor, that labor is not guaranteed not to grenade the motor a second time!