Kswann2009

Recently my car has been very hard to put into gear. I have an adjustable tick master cylinder and have adjusted it time after time and it will work for a few cycles. I have installed the Tick speedbleeder and have flushed my clutch hydraulics. I recently installed a clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and slave cylinder. I can put the car into first, start it, and synchronize through gears with no problem at all. After the car sits for several hours it will also go into gear while it is on. If I rev the engine while it's in gear with the clutch engaged, the car tries to accelerate. What could be the issue with this? Over torqued pressure plate? Failing slave?

OneCylinder

I have read threads on this forum on clutch installs. You should do a search. Part of the proceedure requires measuring from the the presure plate prongs to the edge of the bell housing and that distance should equal the distance between the front edge of the thow-out bearing and the mounting surface torque tube. A spacer is sometimes added or removed.

If the clutch is not fully disengaging, then a spacer may have been needed when installed.

Good luck with it.

Bill Curlee

If you are POSITIVE that you have properly blead the master /slave properly and it not leaking / sucking air after it is properly blead?? Try this:


If you have a TICK Master,,,,, Its adjustable!


1. What is the condition of your CLUTCH? Does it FULLY disengage the drive line when you have it fully depressed???


Recommendation: Jack the rear of the car off the ground and set on jack stands. Start the engine, put in first gear and have some one fully depress the clutch and see if the rear wheels STOP turning.
If the clutch does not fully disengage the drive line from the engine and the rear wheels are still being driven, you will have a difficult time shifting if the synchros are not 100% This condition will also rapidly wear out synchros and the teeth of the meashing cog.


Clutch Rod Adjustment:


Back off the clutch adjustment until the clutch the clutch does not disengage the drive line.

Increase the length of the clutch rod a turn or two at a time until the clutch disengages the wheels from the engine. (STOP TURNING when the clutch is FULLY DEPRESSED!)

I had the same issue and once I had the rear wheels NOT ROTATING when the clutch was fully disengaged, I gave it a turn more and have NOT had one single issue!

I have the proper clutch disengagement point and feel.

Give that a try. If you adjust it properly and it starts giving you issues after a short period of time,,, see if bleeding the clutch results in removing air. That would indicate that you have a path to air somewhere in the hydraulic system.

BC

93Polo

How are you bleeding the system? I used one of the vacuum bleeders you attach to the air compressor and it works great. Bleeding by pumping the pedal seemed to leave it spongy.

Kswann2009

Bleeding with tick speedbleeder. Today I raised the rear and the wheels would spin with the clutch to the floor in gear. I turned it all the way up down and everywhere in between and it made no difference other than when the clutch engaged.