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LS7 clutch or MCLOED

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Old 03-05-2015, 12:56 PM
  #21  
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St. Jude Donor '10

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I do not it is best to call mcleod directly on that.
Old 03-05-2015, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Can I reuse my mcleod steel flywheel with 20k and just have it resurfaced/smooth or do I need to buy a new one? I just bought a rxt to replace my rst but was going to reuse the mcloud steel one. Are they just a 1x use? Again this is not a stock flywheel but a mcloud steel flywheel..Never jeard of them as a 1x use as long as its in tolernace to be resurfaced..
If it is no more than 1/16th that is how I would go. After that, chuck it. Think brake rotors. How fast do they start to squeel and warp after you "surfaced" them.
Old 03-08-2015, 11:49 AM
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My 98 with mods was pushing 506 rwhp/484 ft/lbs torque and running McLeod RXT, which I found to be very acceptable on the street. The engine is being rebuilt and will put out in the 800 hp range so a little over 700 rwhp with a lot more torgue, details unimportant. I had ~6000 miles of street driving on the clutch when the engine was pulled and the clutch showed excessive wear. The McLeod flywheel was easily resurfaced but the plates went back to be rebuilt. Now I have a problem. The car has to be tuned on a chassis tuner but McLeod strenuously warns against breaking in a new clutch under these conditions. Anyone got a comment besides me just being SOL.
Old 03-08-2015, 03:15 PM
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The car does not have to be entirely tuned in a chassis dyno, in fact it really cannot. If you are going to drive it on the street it needs to be tuned on the street first for drivability, cruising, etc etc. That is where the clutch would be broken in THEN you can strap it to the dyno and tune the wide open and anything else. That is the standard normal progression of most any tuner and shop.
Old 03-08-2015, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by coSPEED2
The car does not have to be entirely tuned in a chassis dyno, in fact it really cannot. If you are going to drive it on the street it needs to be tuned on the street first for drivability, cruising, etc etc. That is where the clutch would be broken in THEN you can strap it to the dyno and tune the wide open and anything else. That is the standard normal progression of most any tuner and shop.
Thanks! Probably just showing my ignorance so I'll work this out with the tuner - well known with many, many years of experience.
Old 03-08-2015, 04:24 PM
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No problem.
Old 03-08-2015, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by coSPEED
junk clutches. kick that junk **** along with their dual friction bs to the curb with the other ho's and back hand it a couple times across the face before you kick it.
Had no problem destroying people on the track with it.

BTW, you're a vendor?
Old 03-08-2015, 06:35 PM
  #28  
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I apologize if your clutch was offended by his post.
Old 03-09-2015, 08:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Mattie Num Nums
Had no problem destroying people on the track with it.

BTW, you're a vendor?
Yes it says Supporting Vendor underneath the name. And we do not carry Centerforce for a reason.
Old 03-09-2015, 08:07 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by IntoC5
My 98 with mods was pushing 506 rwhp/484 ft/lbs torque and running McLeod RXT, which I found to be very acceptable on the street. The engine is being rebuilt and will put out in the 800 hp range so a little over 700 rwhp with a lot more torgue, details unimportant. I had ~6000 miles of street driving on the clutch when the engine was pulled and the clutch showed excessive wear. The McLeod flywheel was easily resurfaced but the plates went back to be rebuilt. Now I have a problem. The car has to be tuned on a chassis tuner but McLeod strenuously warns against breaking in a new clutch under these conditions. Anyone got a comment besides me just being SOL.
I agree here. I do not like people installing clutches and then beating the bookoo out of it on the dyno. You can if you're 100% positive the clutch is installed perfectly but who knows. That is why they want you to break it in with daily driving so you can feel changes in the clutch if something is going wrong instead of hitting 6500 RPM and then boom cause something went wrong on the install.

It's like new brake pads and rotors. Do you really want to ride hard on them so you can glaze the pads? Prob not.

Do like coSPEED2 says. He's right.
Old 03-09-2015, 09:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by coSPEED
I agree here. I do not like people installing clutches and then beating the bookoo out of it on the dyno. You can if you're 100% positive the clutch is installed perfectly but who knows. That is why they want you to break it in with daily driving so you can feel changes in the clutch if something is going wrong instead of hitting 6500 RPM and then boom cause something went wrong on the install.

It's like new brake pads and rotors. Do you really want to ride hard on them so you can glaze the pads? Prob not.

Do like coSPEED2 says. He's right.
Thanks guys - all worked out with the shop doing the rebuild. Now, I just have to worry about why the first clutch was so scored after only ~6000 mi of street driving with careful break-in and not a lot of hard starts. I am confident it was initially installed properly since the shop is well recognized in the area and had done a lot of work on the car previously. Additionally, the engine/machine shop doing the re-build said there seemed to be no problem with the clutch install. Again, thanks for the advice!
Old 03-09-2015, 01:34 PM
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I am just under 450 rwhp and daily drive my vette in the summer with a trip to the local drag strip 1-2 times a season. My LS7 clutch works well for what I use it for. However, I just street run mine for the most part. I just could not justify spending the cash on a big dollar clutch for how I use the car.



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