'02 C5 Z06 Performance: Request for additional Upgrades Advice
#1
'02 C5 Z06 Performance: Request for additional Upgrades Advice
Hey guys, I have some questions and would like some feedback. I apologize in advance for writing a book!
I've decided that in the long run, it'll be better for my budget to not buy a new C7 Z06 like I've been fantasizing about since it first came out. Other than the dated interior of my '02 C5 Z06, I love everything about the car.
Back in 2013, my darling wife gave me the present of a few upgrades for my C5 Z06:
At the time, I was hoping to wind up right around 405RWHP to match the badge on the Z06. But now that the C7 Z06 is running around, I think a reasonable goal to shoot for is trying to match the C7 Z06's RWHP figures (around 575RWHP) On top of that, here's a few other goals/requirments:
It seems to me that Forced Induction lays before me on my upgrade path. After all, it took forced induction to get the C7 Z06 there too. Some other motoring enthusiast friends have suggested cams/heads instead out of reliability concerns.
I'm leaning towards forced induction, because I'm not a real big fan of aggressive cams. I especially dislike loping and how terrible some cars with cams sound and run at the lower RPMs. I like that there's accessible power right now at low RPMs.
Here's what my big questions are:
I'm not quite sure what my budget is yet, I know that all of it's going to be expensive, as I've looked at a few kits and read through quite a few forum posts. Hopefully with your feedback I'll be able to start figuring out what exactly the budget should be. However, I'm expecting that it'll be more than $8500.
I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts on the matter. If you're a C5 owner in the DFW area with forced induction or heads/cams, I'd love to meet up and see your car. Maybe you'll show it off for me!
Thanks for the help!
I've decided that in the long run, it'll be better for my budget to not buy a new C7 Z06 like I've been fantasizing about since it first came out. Other than the dated interior of my '02 C5 Z06, I love everything about the car.
Back in 2013, my darling wife gave me the present of a few upgrades for my C5 Z06:
- LG Short Shifter
- LG Super Pro Headers w/ High Flow Catalytic Converters
- VaraRam VR-BR2
- 160 Degree Thermostat
- A Tune from LG Motorsports
At the time, I was hoping to wind up right around 405RWHP to match the badge on the Z06. But now that the C7 Z06 is running around, I think a reasonable goal to shoot for is trying to match the C7 Z06's RWHP figures (around 575RWHP) On top of that, here's a few other goals/requirments:
- Air Conditioning must STAY ... almost above all else. Texas is hot.
- It needs to be daily-driveable, meaning after my 45-60 minute commute to work, I must not be on the verge of a psychotic episode.
- Ground Clearance is a worry. I have an incredibly steep part of my driveway, along which I already occasionally scrape the bottom of my Z06.
It seems to me that Forced Induction lays before me on my upgrade path. After all, it took forced induction to get the C7 Z06 there too. Some other motoring enthusiast friends have suggested cams/heads instead out of reliability concerns.
I'm leaning towards forced induction, because I'm not a real big fan of aggressive cams. I especially dislike loping and how terrible some cars with cams sound and run at the lower RPMs. I like that there's accessible power right now at low RPMs.
Here's what my big questions are:
- Forced Induction vs. Heads & Cams?
- Supercharged or Turbocharged?
- What other parts should I be thinking about replacing?
I'm not quite sure what my budget is yet, I know that all of it's going to be expensive, as I've looked at a few kits and read through quite a few forum posts. Hopefully with your feedback I'll be able to start figuring out what exactly the budget should be. However, I'm expecting that it'll be more than $8500.
I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts on the matter. If you're a C5 owner in the DFW area with forced induction or heads/cams, I'd love to meet up and see your car. Maybe you'll show it off for me!
Thanks for the help!
#2
Tech Contributor
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Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
FI will get you most of the way there. To get the most out of your mod, you should probably do a blower cam & ported heads.
The sad part of the whole deal is,,, once you pass the 400-420 RWHP mark,, DRIVE TRAIN mods are pretty much MANDITOTRY!!
Example:
Up-grade the differential output shafts to C6 ZO6 parts or after market output shafts, C6 ZO6 differential limited slip clutches and beleivew springs.
Change the TT Bushing to newer non deteriorated ones and make sure that the TT bearings are in good condition.
New Engine mounts
PFADT differential mount.
NEW Clutch that can handle the new HP/TQ pluss all the other clutch hardware.
I can go on and on with recommended things that you need or should replace or up-grade to.
Here are some reliability mods that you should consider
LS7 or LS3 timing chain
New Damper that needs to be PINNED to the crank
New Melling Oil Pump
Timing chain dampener
New valve springs
ARP Head Studs
ARP Dampener bolt
New high performance lifters and new lifter buckets
Comp Cams roller Trunion up-grade
ECS Differential Brace
Clutch remote bleeder kit.
WHEW... That's some off the top of my head.
SO,,,,, You most likely need an EXPANDED BUDGET Mod also!
Remember: Cheep Fast, Reliable. Pick TWO cause you CAN NOT have all three!!!
Do it right the first time or do it twice for twice the price..
The sad part of the whole deal is,,, once you pass the 400-420 RWHP mark,, DRIVE TRAIN mods are pretty much MANDITOTRY!!
Example:
Up-grade the differential output shafts to C6 ZO6 parts or after market output shafts, C6 ZO6 differential limited slip clutches and beleivew springs.
Change the TT Bushing to newer non deteriorated ones and make sure that the TT bearings are in good condition.
New Engine mounts
PFADT differential mount.
NEW Clutch that can handle the new HP/TQ pluss all the other clutch hardware.
I can go on and on with recommended things that you need or should replace or up-grade to.
Here are some reliability mods that you should consider
LS7 or LS3 timing chain
New Damper that needs to be PINNED to the crank
New Melling Oil Pump
Timing chain dampener
New valve springs
ARP Head Studs
ARP Dampener bolt
New high performance lifters and new lifter buckets
Comp Cams roller Trunion up-grade
ECS Differential Brace
Clutch remote bleeder kit.
WHEW... That's some off the top of my head.
SO,,,,, You most likely need an EXPANDED BUDGET Mod also!
Remember: Cheep Fast, Reliable. Pick TWO cause you CAN NOT have all three!!!
Do it right the first time or do it twice for twice the price..
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 03-10-2015 at 04:19 PM.
#3
Thanks for the reply, Bill! This certainly will provide me more fodder for my research over the next few months:
I'll have to check out the cams, I've listened to a few on YouTube and I'm not real thrilled with what I'm hearing, but I'm happy with sacrificing part of my goal if that's what it takes.
What's "TT" stand for in your list, I keep trying to think of what it might be, but my brain is stuck on forced induction and it keeps autocompleting "Twin Turbo" for me.
In my experience (on other cars), it's really more like ONE of the three. Two would be an unexpected luxury!
What's "TT" stand for in your list, I keep trying to think of what it might be, but my brain is stuck on forced induction and it keeps autocompleting "Twin Turbo" for me.
Remember: Cheep Fast, Reliable. Pick TWO cause you CAN NOT have all three!!!
Do it right the first time or do it twice for twice the price..
Do it right the first time or do it twice for twice the price..
Last edited by Neckhole; 03-12-2015 at 01:34 PM.
#4
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Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
TT = Torque Tube...
#5
Racer
I agree with FI,(supercharger), being the best route to your goal. Keep it in the 550 -575hp range though for decent reliability. 600hp and up you're playing russian roulette with the stock pistons. Plus at the lower level you can keep the heads and cam you have, though I'd swap the cam anyhow. Mine, with an A&A kit (3.8 std. pulley), AR headers, and a mild cam will make close to 640, on crappy California 91 octane, unless the timing is pulled way back.
Also agree with Bill's suggestions on the need for drivetrain upgrades.
550 - 575hp with a beefed up clutch and driveline can be surprisingly reliable AND will torch just about any "street" tire you can fit in the wheelwell.
Also agree with Bill's suggestions on the need for drivetrain upgrades.
550 - 575hp with a beefed up clutch and driveline can be surprisingly reliable AND will torch just about any "street" tire you can fit in the wheelwell.
Last edited by RIKKITIK; 03-13-2015 at 04:48 PM.
#6
I agree with FI,(supercharger), being the best route to your goal. Keep it in the 550 -575hp range though for decent reliability. 600hp and up you're playing russian roulette with the stock pistons. Plus at the lower level you can keep the heads and cam you have, though I'd swap the cam anyhow. Mine, with an A&A kit (3.8 std. pulley), AR headers, and a mild cam will make close to 640, on crappy California 91 octane, unless the timing is pulled way back.
Also agree with Bill's suggestions on the need for drivetrain upgrades.
550 - 575hp with a beefed up clutch and driveline can be surprisingly reliable AND will torch just about any "street" tire you can fit in the wheelwell.
Also agree with Bill's suggestions on the need for drivetrain upgrades.
550 - 575hp with a beefed up clutch and driveline can be surprisingly reliable AND will torch just about any "street" tire you can fit in the wheelwell.