new build- car wont start
03-28-2015, 02:12 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
03-28-2015, 02:18 PM
#22
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Do you own HP Tuners or EFI live?
This is a tough situation because Id never tell anyone that it's an issue with the tune but on the same tolken, it sounds like your car is mechanically sound based off what I'm reading here. The crank position sensor code does concern me though. Do you have another known working crank position sensor you can throw in there for a sanity check?
On that note I'm not saying it isn't bad fuel but I've left fuel in the tank for over a year and car fired right up.
This is a tough situation because Id never tell anyone that it's an issue with the tune but on the same tolken, it sounds like your car is mechanically sound based off what I'm reading here. The crank position sensor code does concern me though. Do you have another known working crank position sensor you can throw in there for a sanity check?
On that note I'm not saying it isn't bad fuel but I've left fuel in the tank for over a year and car fired right up.
03-28-2015, 02:30 PM
#23
Le Mans Master
Do you own HP Tuners or EFI live?
This is a tough situation because Id never tell anyone that it's an issue with the tune but on the same tolken, it sounds like your car is mechanically sound based off what I'm reading here. The crank position sensor code does concern me though. Do you have another known working crank position sensor you can throw in there for a sanity check?
On that note I'm not saying it isn't bad fuel but I've left fuel in the tank for over a year and car fired right up.
This is a tough situation because Id never tell anyone that it's an issue with the tune but on the same tolken, it sounds like your car is mechanically sound based off what I'm reading here. The crank position sensor code does concern me though. Do you have another known working crank position sensor you can throw in there for a sanity check?
On that note I'm not saying it isn't bad fuel but I've left fuel in the tank for over a year and car fired right up.
03-28-2015, 02:33 PM
#24
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
For sure.
My apologies if it sounded like I was discounting your gas theory. That wasn't my intention though I can see how it may seem that way.
My apologies if it sounded like I was discounting your gas theory. That wasn't my intention though I can see how it may seem that way.
03-28-2015, 03:24 PM
#25
The reason I said check the compression is cause you said the motor spin real fast like it doesn't have any compression. The short block could be fine but if your cam is off or timing set it could bleed out all the compression from the valves being open. I think that would be easier then removing the front cover. I would also check if you get spark on all plugs.
03-28-2015, 04:37 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=MVP'S ZO6;1589288430]For sure.
My apologies if it sounded like I was discounting your gas theory. That wasn't my intention though I can see how it may seem that way.
Nope all good bro.. just wanted the OP to really consider it...would be a simple fix for him if it worked.
My apologies if it sounded like I was discounting your gas theory. That wasn't my intention though I can see how it may seem that way.
Nope all good bro.. just wanted the OP to really consider it...would be a simple fix for him if it worked.
03-28-2015, 07:41 PM
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
I went out and put 10 gallons of fresh 93 octane in and a bottle of water remover. (there was about 3 gallons in the tank prior) Tried to fire it up and got the same result.
I cleared all the error codes last night and the only one that remains is the P1336.
MVP - No, I do not have a scanner tool, but after reading the post below maybe it would be a smart investment at this point? I have no intentions of tuning the entire program from start to finish, but I'd like to get the car running here at my house to check for problems and a few break in miles before I take it to the dyno.
I'm beginning to think this will not run unless I have the PCM "relearn" the crank sensor. My car meets 3 of the criteria I see below- PCM from another car, and a new motor.
Thanks for your help guys.
I cleared all the error codes last night and the only one that remains is the P1336.
MVP - No, I do not have a scanner tool, but after reading the post below maybe it would be a smart investment at this point? I have no intentions of tuning the entire program from start to finish, but I'd like to get the car running here at my house to check for problems and a few break in miles before I take it to the dyno.
I'm beginning to think this will not run unless I have the PCM "relearn" the crank sensor. My car meets 3 of the criteria I see below- PCM from another car, and a new motor.
DTC P1336
Circuit Description
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor sends pulses to the powertrain control module (PCM) when the reluctor wheel teeth rotate past the CKP sensor. The PCM uses the CKP pulses in order to synchronize the ignition and the fuel injector operation, and in order to time the interval between each CKP pulse. The PCM determines when an excessive change in the crankshaft speed occurs by comparing each new time interval with the previous interval. A misfire causes an unexpected change in the crankshaft speed. A certain amount of acceleration or deceleration is expected between each firing stroke, but if the crankshaft speed changes more than an expected amount, the PCM interprets this as a misfire. The interval between CKP sensor pulses is extremely small. At high engine speeds, slight variations in the following components make misfire detection difficult:
The crankshaft
The reluctor wheel
The CKP sensor
The PCM learns variations during the crankshaft position system variation learning procedure. The PCM compensates for these variations when performing detect misfire calculations. Only a scan tool can command the PCM to perform the crankshaft position system variation learning procedure again.
After the following actions, perform the learning procedure:
A PCM replacement
Any operation or repair involving the crankshaft, the CKP sensor, or the CKP sensor to reluctor wheel gap relationship.
An engine replacement
The ignition switch is in the ON position until the battery is drained.
Circuit Description
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor sends pulses to the powertrain control module (PCM) when the reluctor wheel teeth rotate past the CKP sensor. The PCM uses the CKP pulses in order to synchronize the ignition and the fuel injector operation, and in order to time the interval between each CKP pulse. The PCM determines when an excessive change in the crankshaft speed occurs by comparing each new time interval with the previous interval. A misfire causes an unexpected change in the crankshaft speed. A certain amount of acceleration or deceleration is expected between each firing stroke, but if the crankshaft speed changes more than an expected amount, the PCM interprets this as a misfire. The interval between CKP sensor pulses is extremely small. At high engine speeds, slight variations in the following components make misfire detection difficult:
The crankshaft
The reluctor wheel
The CKP sensor
The PCM learns variations during the crankshaft position system variation learning procedure. The PCM compensates for these variations when performing detect misfire calculations. Only a scan tool can command the PCM to perform the crankshaft position system variation learning procedure again.
After the following actions, perform the learning procedure:
A PCM replacement
Any operation or repair involving the crankshaft, the CKP sensor, or the CKP sensor to reluctor wheel gap relationship.
An engine replacement
The ignition switch is in the ON position until the battery is drained.
03-28-2015, 07:56 PM
#28
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
I went out and put 10 gallons of fresh 93 octane in and a bottle of water remover. (there was about 3 gallons in the tank prior) Tried to fire it up and got the same result.
I cleared all the error codes last night and the only one that remains is the P1336.
MVP - No, I do not have a scanner tool, but after reading the post below maybe it would be a smart investment at this point? I have no intentions of tuning the entire program from start to finish, but I'd like to get the car running here at my house to check for problems and a few break in miles before I take it to the dyno.
I'm beginning to think this will not run unless I have the PCM "relearn" the crank sensor. My car meets 3 of the criteria I see below- PCM from another car, and a new motor.
Thanks for your help guys.
I cleared all the error codes last night and the only one that remains is the P1336.
MVP - No, I do not have a scanner tool, but after reading the post below maybe it would be a smart investment at this point? I have no intentions of tuning the entire program from start to finish, but I'd like to get the car running here at my house to check for problems and a few break in miles before I take it to the dyno.
I'm beginning to think this will not run unless I have the PCM "relearn" the crank sensor. My car meets 3 of the criteria I see below- PCM from another car, and a new motor.
Thanks for your help guys.
The cool thing about buying hp tuners or efi live is that you can do the crank relearn procedure with the (hp tuners) interface. I believ efi live allows it too! At that point you would also own it so no more sending out your computer to be tuned and your tuner could even tune remotely using the interface and teamviewer where he can take control of your lap top. As long as you have an Internet connection.
The down side is its up to you to make sure your car is functioning properly and that your wideband (when and if you bought one) is good to go. Other than that it's a good thing and convenient.
03-29-2015, 12:16 AM
#30
Pro
Thread Starter
I did a ton of reading today on LS1tech and YB. I'm terribly afraid that the reluctor wheel may be installed backwards. I found two posts with the same symptoms...both turned out to be reluctor installed wrong. If I have to take this motor back out and completely tear it down again this thing may have to go on the back burner... 
03-29-2015, 12:29 AM
#31
Le Mans Master
I did a ton of reading today on LS1tech and YB. I'm terribly afraid that the reluctor wheel may be installed backwards. I found two posts with the same symptoms...both turned out to be reluctor installed wrong. If I have to take this motor back out and completely tear it down again this thing may have to go on the back burner...
03-29-2015, 01:03 AM
#32
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
I did a ton of reading today on LS1tech and YB. I'm terribly afraid that the reluctor wheel may be installed backwards. I found two posts with the same symptoms...both turned out to be reluctor installed wrong. If I have to take this motor back out and completely tear it down again this thing may have to go on the back burner...
That will do it for sure!! My initial thought was that you had the wrong one on there.
If I may add, if it is on backward, when you take it back to the builder and he fixes it, have him throw a couple tack welds to Hold the reluctor on. It's common practice. They're known for coming off!
03-29-2015, 01:21 AM
#33
Le Mans Master
That will do it for sure!! My initial thought was that you had the wrong one on there.
If I may add, if it is on backward, when you take it back to the builder and he fixes it, have him throw a couple tack welds to Hold the reluctor on. It's common practice. They're known for coming off!
If I may add, if it is on backward, when you take it back to the builder and he fixes it, have him throw a couple tack welds to Hold the reluctor on. It's common practice. They're known for coming off!
Does this happen often because it's easy to do?
03-29-2015, 01:22 AM
#34
Le Mans Master
That will do it for sure!! My initial thought was that you had the wrong one on there.
If I may add, if it is on backward, when you take it back to the builder and he fixes it, have him throw a couple tack welds to Hold the reluctor on. It's common practice. They're known for coming off!
If I may add, if it is on backward, when you take it back to the builder and he fixes it, have him throw a couple tack welds to Hold the reluctor on. It's common practice. They're known for coming off!
Does this happen often because it's easy to do?
They are pressed on to, right?
Why the hell would they not clearly mark which way it faces on a piece so critical and hard to get to?
Last edited by 73Corvette; 03-29-2015 at 01:36 AM.
03-29-2015, 01:39 AM
#36
Le Mans Master
I did a ton of reading today on LS1tech and YB. I'm terribly afraid that the reluctor wheel may be installed backwards. I found two posts with the same symptoms...both turned out to be reluctor installed wrong. If I have to take this motor back out and completely tear it down again this thing may have to go on the back burner...
Ask your builder if he has a Goodson reluctor wheel tool, if not.......
A better reluctor wheel over stock is a billet wheel (no rivets)
Also a good practice is to check the installed reluctor wheel for run out on a crank balance machine.
If they wobble you can loose signal & pull your hair out more
Like Mike said, after everything checks out, the wheel can be tack welded to the crank counter weight so it can't spin on the crank.
.
Last edited by 4DRUSH; 03-29-2015 at 02:21 AM.
03-29-2015, 02:07 AM
#38
Le Mans Master
dang these things are complicated...I feel like such a rookie, it's like starting all over again.
03-29-2015, 02:21 AM
#40
Le Mans Master
I know the LS still has pistons, valves, cam, crank, and intake...I know it has to have fuel, fire, and air... and they all have to be at the right place at the right time and in the right amounts... I just need to learn how all that is taking place and why.
Last edited by 73Corvette; 03-29-2015 at 02:26 AM.