Issues with lowered suspension
#1
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Issues with lowered suspension
Hey guys, story time. I'm having some problems with my 97 I bought last summer. They weren't half bad when I bought it, but I assumed it just needed an alignment. The car swerves all over the place, especially at 40+ mph, even while holding the wheel steady and on smooth pavement. I got the shakes slowing after a 90mph fun run and almost crapped myself last week. After checking it out today, the thing is SLAMMED way further than I thought. The rear leaf spring nuts are backed off to the point where I'm surprised they didn't fly off when hitting bumps. The front leaf spring bolts are completely out (????). The bushings are cut in the back and there are no bushings under the front leaf spring, just some silicone that I assume was used to quiet squeaking. I ordered aluminum tie rod ends because after cruising on this site I assumed that was the problem, but there are already aluminum ones on there.
So, I'm going to get all new bushings and order new bolts for the front and pump it back up to stock height, and then get an alignment. Do you all think that will solve the issues? I just want my car to drive normally. Thanks a lot in advance!
So, I'm going to get all new bushings and order new bolts for the front and pump it back up to stock height, and then get an alignment. Do you all think that will solve the issues? I just want my car to drive normally. Thanks a lot in advance!
#2
Le Mans Master
WOW... glad you didn't wreck. I would do a complete and comprehensive check of my total suspension system, to make sure everything is in working order... might be a good time for some upgrades also. Then with an alignment and good tires you should be in good shape.
#3
Melting Slicks
All of what you're suggesting is a good start.
By aluminum tie rod ends I'll assume that you mean aluminum sway bar end links....
Make sure your shocks are good and not blown out, and that your tires are good and safe.
By aluminum tie rod ends I'll assume that you mean aluminum sway bar end links....
Make sure your shocks are good and not blown out, and that your tires are good and safe.
#4
Team Owner
If the car is "slammed" THAT low, they might be in rough shape.
To the OP, I suggest looking to see if "Hardbar" is still in business, and if they are, pick up a pair of their bumpers for the front spring, and a set of Energy Suspension poly spring cushions for the rear. Bring the car up a little, then get it aligned.
(Keep in mind, the C-5s are designed to have a little "rake" in them, with the rear end about 1/4-3/8" higher than the front end.)
#5
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it. Sox-Fan - yep that's what I meant haha not tie rods. And the tires are solid, a little edge wear from the obvious issues but nothing severe. Just ordered new hardware and bushings all around, so now to play the waiting game . Is there any way to check the shocks while still on the car? It's not a huge deal if I have to pull them off, but getting that low thing on my dad's lift is a five minute process
#6
Le Mans Master
Thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it. Sox-Fan - yep that's what I meant haha not tie rods. And the tires are solid, a little edge wear from the obvious issues but nothing severe. Just ordered new hardware and bushings all around, so now to play the waiting game . Is there any way to check the shocks while still on the car? It's not a huge deal if I have to pull them off, but getting that low thing on my dad's lift is a five minute process
If you don't know I think I would replace them...good used upgrades on the parts for sale forum. If your going to the effort to make everything else right you might as well, do shocks and tires if needed... to insure safety and function.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Odessa FL
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Hey guys, story time. I'm having some problems with my 97 I bought last summer. They weren't half bad when I bought it, but I assumed it just needed an alignment. The car swerves all over the place, especially at 40+ mph, even while holding the wheel steady and on smooth pavement. I got the shakes slowing after a 90mph fun run and almost crapped myself last week. After checking it out today, the thing is SLAMMED way further than I thought. The rear leaf spring nuts are backed off to the point where I'm surprised they didn't fly off when hitting bumps. The front leaf spring bolts are completely out (????). The bushings are cut in the back and there are no bushings under the front leaf spring, just some silicone that I assume was used to quiet squeaking. I ordered aluminum tie rod ends because after cruising on this site I assumed that was the problem, but there are already aluminum ones on there.
So, I'm going to get all new bushings and order new bolts for the front and pump it back up to stock height, and then get an alignment. Do you all think that will solve the issues? I just want my car to drive normally. Thanks a lot in advance!
So, I'm going to get all new bushings and order new bolts for the front and pump it back up to stock height, and then get an alignment. Do you all think that will solve the issues? I just want my car to drive normally. Thanks a lot in advance!
#9
Melting Slicks
The OP's problems are very common to slammed Corvettes. What has happened is that the bottoming of the shocks causes the shock to act like a wedge and this causes the eccentric alignment adjusters to slip. This ruins the alignment and the car is all over the place. Setting it to a proper ride height and then aligning it should make it all good again.
The hardest part is getting the ride height correct. Measure from the jacking points and not from the bodywork and as noted above make sure there is some rake in there and you should be fine. Do not expect the rear bolts to be at the same setting from side to side. All of these cars have a tweak to the frame and the RR bolt should be showing approximately 3 threads more than the left rear bolt when it's set correctly.
The hardest part is getting the ride height correct. Measure from the jacking points and not from the bodywork and as noted above make sure there is some rake in there and you should be fine. Do not expect the rear bolts to be at the same setting from side to side. All of these cars have a tweak to the frame and the RR bolt should be showing approximately 3 threads more than the left rear bolt when it's set correctly.