5w30 vs. 10w30 oil
#21
Le Mans Master
I've driven hundreds of thousands of miles on the $hi5est dirt roads in Oklahoma, slick mud, sticky mud, deep mud, shallow mud, snow drifts as deep as the handles on my truck, ice, etc.. I liked it much better before ABS TC and AH... but, my situation is different than most folks and I get that... the technology is a good thing, especially for all the idiots I see when they drag me kicking and screaming to town... I will always have some ole piece of crap around here I can drive without all the bells and whistles.
#23
Burning Brakes
In a multi viscosity oil, the first number is the viscosity of the oil at room temperature. The second number is the viscosity of the oil at 200F. So a "5W-30" and a "10W-30" are both 30W oils, just the 10W-30 is thicker on start up. You want a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 to minimize damage on startup. Multi viscosity oils were engineered because oil doesn't actually fully work until it's over 200F, so we needed something that would act like a 5W at startup to minimize wear and tear but have the viscosity of a 30W once fully heated up.
#24
Melting Slicks
As I understand it, the current M1 Extended Mileage is about the same as the original. I read that they lowered the Zn content on the "base" M1 as too much can affect the cats, but that the EM version still has the higher content.
#25
Safety Car
When a dino oil breaks down, it reverts to the lower weight. When a synthetic breaks down, it reverts to the higher weight. That said, I don't know the breakdown from group 3, 4, and 5 stocks WRT breakdown.
#26
Drifting
If you want a basic Mobil 1 synthetic with higher ZDDP, get the "high mileage" variant. I'm not high miles, but I don't have cats, so no worries there. It's what I run.
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...ecs-guide.ashx
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...ecs-guide.ashx
#27
Race Director
30w is 30w, the 10 version has fewer viscosity modifiers and often better shear stability.
GM and others spec 5-30 because of extreme cold temps. most people don't drive a corvette below freezing making it really a moot point
with mobil 1 the extended version has the most detergents, high milage is the best for racing as it has the highest zddp level and the standard is a lower zddp clean formula similar to the extended just with fewer detergents
if you drive sporty high mileage 10-30 would be my choice
if you change once a year and old man drive get the extended version
GM and others spec 5-30 because of extreme cold temps. most people don't drive a corvette below freezing making it really a moot point
with mobil 1 the extended version has the most detergents, high milage is the best for racing as it has the highest zddp level and the standard is a lower zddp clean formula similar to the extended just with fewer detergents
if you drive sporty high mileage 10-30 would be my choice
if you change once a year and old man drive get the extended version
#29
Burning Brakes
Here is some great articles written my an lubrication engineer. I highly recommend you guys read this, it clears up a lot of the misinformation out there about oil:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
#30
Melting Slicks
I am waiting for the folk who insist that everything must be done by the book to chime in and say that since Chevrolet originally specified Mobil 1, it is therefore the only "correct" oil to use......
#31
Le Mans Master
#32
Team Owner
If the OP thinks 5W-30 might be too "thin", consider this....My wife's 2012 Jaguar XJ calls for 0W-20 oil, year round! The 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Hemi V-8, that I just bought, calls for 5W-20, again, year round.
And BTW, I have "run-flats" on my C-5......
And BTW, I have "run-flats" on my C-5......
#33
Team Owner
#34
Race Director
much of this is emissions and mpg. you can get better mpg with thinner oil. honda specs 0-20 and 5-20 in the usa but the exact same car in japan uses 5-30
#35
Team Owner
#36
Drifting
I only use the best in my baby.... Supertech blue bottle from Wally World:
#37
Seeeeeeee, this is what I've grown to LOVE about this forum.
I knew going into purchasing my first vette that the parts, labor,..etc for a vette would ALWAYS be more expensive than your 'normal' car. So I decided maybe I could become a DIY-er on SOME of the things that would eventually pop up. So my original purpose for coming here was just to fix what I now know are some common problems with the c5 for myself. But, I've come to learn SOOO much more than I ever realized I would, sometimes by pure accident.
Thanks guys.. you really DO rock. Opinions will vary but it seems you've helped me clear up some misconceptions I may have had on motor oil.
You live and you learn...
I knew going into purchasing my first vette that the parts, labor,..etc for a vette would ALWAYS be more expensive than your 'normal' car. So I decided maybe I could become a DIY-er on SOME of the things that would eventually pop up. So my original purpose for coming here was just to fix what I now know are some common problems with the c5 for myself. But, I've come to learn SOOO much more than I ever realized I would, sometimes by pure accident.
Thanks guys.. you really DO rock. Opinions will vary but it seems you've helped me clear up some misconceptions I may have had on motor oil.
You live and you learn...
Last edited by JayTee72; 04-15-2015 at 12:29 PM.
#39
Race Director
once a person gets this the magic of choosing oil no longer seems like a stab in the dark.
the reason mobil1 is so common besides being on the factory fill is with the bang for the buck. it's simply a GREAT value oil. it also have varients like high mileage and extended duration which fit different needs. high milage is probably the best value for a track oil a person can get