Stereo System is blowing fuses... thoughts?
#1
Melting Slicks
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Stereo System is blowing fuses... thoughts?
Hi guys, I've got a 2000 Corvette Coupe. It's highly modified, but the stereo system is all stock. Recently my system lost all base and the ability to adjust the base. I did some research, checked fuse #28 in the footwell and sure enough it was blown. I replaced it, fired up the stereo and again, no base. That fuse blew as well immediately. Is the only possibility a short in the wiring somewhere? Thanks in advance for your help!
#2
Le Mans Master
Pro Mechanic
Excessive current flow (amps) is what blows fuses.
Given that the max voltage in the system is constant, the only variable is resistance. When resistance is reduced to a point that current flow exceeds the fuse's rating, it blows. This is almost always caused by a short circuit (assuming the circuit has not be messed with by putting lower resistance components in it).
Finding a short can be a bear. It can also cost a lot of fuses in the process. It's pretty much a process of elimination.
I don't have a circuit diagram in front of me, but a good start would be to pull the output wiring from the radio and then install a new fuse. If it blows, the problem is either the radio itself or upstream of the radio. Unplug the power input into the radio - does fuse still blow? If so, it isn't the radio - it's upstream. If the fuse does not blow with the radio plugged into power, one by one reconnect output circuits to the radio. When the fuse blows, you have found the guilty circuit. Now you have to hunt down where the short is. Unplug the component at the end of that circuit and install a new fuse. if it blows, the problem is in the wiring. If it doesn't blow, the problem is in the component.
A wiring schematic will be very helpful as the above description is pretty generic, but it gives you the basic approach to take.
Good luck! Post up your findings...
Given that the max voltage in the system is constant, the only variable is resistance. When resistance is reduced to a point that current flow exceeds the fuse's rating, it blows. This is almost always caused by a short circuit (assuming the circuit has not be messed with by putting lower resistance components in it).
Finding a short can be a bear. It can also cost a lot of fuses in the process. It's pretty much a process of elimination.
I don't have a circuit diagram in front of me, but a good start would be to pull the output wiring from the radio and then install a new fuse. If it blows, the problem is either the radio itself or upstream of the radio. Unplug the power input into the radio - does fuse still blow? If so, it isn't the radio - it's upstream. If the fuse does not blow with the radio plugged into power, one by one reconnect output circuits to the radio. When the fuse blows, you have found the guilty circuit. Now you have to hunt down where the short is. Unplug the component at the end of that circuit and install a new fuse. if it blows, the problem is in the wiring. If it doesn't blow, the problem is in the component.
A wiring schematic will be very helpful as the above description is pretty generic, but it gives you the basic approach to take.
Good luck! Post up your findings...
#3
Le Mans Master
Hi guys, I've got a 2000 Corvette Coupe. It's highly modified, but the stereo system is all stock. Recently my system lost all base and the ability to adjust the base. I did some research, checked fuse #28 in the footwell and sure enough it was blown. I replaced it, fired up the stereo and again, no base. That fuse blew as well immediately. Is the only possibility a short in the wiring somewhere? Thanks in advance for your help!
#4
Melting Slicks
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Thanks guys! Currently helping my Dad recover from surgery but I'll tear the interior apart in a few weeks and report my findings
#5
Le Mans Master
Fuse 28 is for the Bose speakers and not the radio. I can pull the schematics later and tell you where to start in diagnostics. Not at home now. May be a day or two, I have several irons in the fire right now.
The front door amplifiers need to be powered.
I assume you are still getting some sound from the rear speakers? They are fed by the radio.
The front door amplifiers need to be powered.
I assume you are still getting some sound from the rear speakers? They are fed by the radio.
#6
Le Mans Master
Like dadaroo said on another thread, and the reason I say call Dennis is that he has probably "been there done that" and can point you in the right direction... then if you need an electrical expert you can contact dadaroo for further clarification.
#7
Le Mans Master
I looked at the schematics and that fuse only feeds the amps in the doors.
I would first pull the fuse and see if the circuit is grounded somewhere. If you need help on this just PM me with your number and I can explain.
If not, then I would remove/pull back the door accordion on one of the doors and unplug the harness. The connector is in the A-pillar and can be pulled out to disconnect.
I doubt that both amps are the problem, should just be one.
Here is a link on the accordions and connectors.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-there-is.html
I would first pull the fuse and see if the circuit is grounded somewhere. If you need help on this just PM me with your number and I can explain.
If not, then I would remove/pull back the door accordion on one of the doors and unplug the harness. The connector is in the A-pillar and can be pulled out to disconnect.
I doubt that both amps are the problem, should just be one.
Here is a link on the accordions and connectors.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-there-is.html
#8
Melting Slicks
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I looked at the schematics and that fuse only feeds the amps in the doors.
I would first pull the fuse and see if the circuit is grounded somewhere. If you need help on this just PM me with your number and I can explain.
If not, then I would remove/pull back the door accordion on one of the doors and unplug the harness. The connector is in the A-pillar and can be pulled out to disconnect.
I doubt that both amps are the problem, should just be one.
Here is a link on the accordions and connectors.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-there-is.html
I would first pull the fuse and see if the circuit is grounded somewhere. If you need help on this just PM me with your number and I can explain.
If not, then I would remove/pull back the door accordion on one of the doors and unplug the harness. The connector is in the A-pillar and can be pulled out to disconnect.
I doubt that both amps are the problem, should just be one.
Here is a link on the accordions and connectors.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-there-is.html
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you, been helping my dad recover from hip surgery. Here's all of the details I know:
All four speakers emit noise, but no base from any of them. Treble adjustment works for all 4. The fuse #28 blows whenever I put one in. I currently have no fuse in there, the speakers all work without bass. Is your suggestion to unplug each side independantly and try it with a new fuse in place? I can go run to the store and pick up some more fuses if necessary!
#9
Le Mans Master
Hey,
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you, been helping my dad recover from hip surgery. Here's all of the details I know:
All four speakers emit noise, but no base from any of them. Treble adjustment works for all 4. The fuse #28 blows whenever I put one in. I currently have no fuse in there, the speakers all work without bass. Is your suggestion to unplug each side independantly and try it with a new fuse in place? I can go run to the store and pick up some more fuses if necessary!
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you, been helping my dad recover from hip surgery. Here's all of the details I know:
All four speakers emit noise, but no base from any of them. Treble adjustment works for all 4. The fuse #28 blows whenever I put one in. I currently have no fuse in there, the speakers all work without bass. Is your suggestion to unplug each side independantly and try it with a new fuse in place? I can go run to the store and pick up some more fuses if necessary!
#11
Le Mans Master
Sorry I am a little OCD... thanks for calling him, he'll no doubt call you back. I just think sometimes it's quicker, simpler, easier to just touch base with an expert... he has probably seen this before and may know exactly what you're issue is and can give you the correction. Or, he may not have a clue and dadaroo can work his schematic magic and help you find out whats going on.
#12
Le Mans Master
Hey,
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you, been helping my dad recover from hip surgery. Here's all of the details I know:
All four speakers emit noise, but no base from any of them. Treble adjustment works for all 4. The fuse #28 blows whenever I put one in. I currently have no fuse in there, the speakers all work without bass. Is your suggestion to unplug each side independantly and try it with a new fuse in place? I can go run to the store and pick up some more fuses if necessary!
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you, been helping my dad recover from hip surgery. Here's all of the details I know:
All four speakers emit noise, but no base from any of them. Treble adjustment works for all 4. The fuse #28 blows whenever I put one in. I currently have no fuse in there, the speakers all work without bass. Is your suggestion to unplug each side independantly and try it with a new fuse in place? I can go run to the store and pick up some more fuses if necessary!
Yes, we need to figure which door speaker is shorted to ground. If you know how to use a ohmmeter you could just do a check at the door connector to see which one was shorted. I could tell you which pin to check.
#13
Melting Slicks
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Great, I'll do that today. It's probably on the driver's side, as I had that whole door apart this winter. Can you please tell me which pin to check?
#14
Le Mans Master
Each door connector for the speakers uses the 10 cavity connector in the accordion of each door. Fuse 28 feeds the ONLY pure Orange wire in each door. There is an Orange/Black wire which is NOT the one you want.
There are 2 ground wires coming out the door in each connector. They are Black/White wires. Rather than try and tell you which one is specific to the amp I would try each one to test.
I would disconnect the connector and measure resistance from the Orange wire to both ground wires on the DOOR SIDE of the connector. If you get 0 ohms on one or both you have found your problem. If not, then measure the resistance on the other side of the connector and you should get 0 ohms.
I would then go to the other door and do the same. We want to confirm the short is inside a door or in the car wiring. I think it is inside a door.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Mr. Sam
PS: If you feel like we need to discuss on the phone just PM me your number.
There are 2 ground wires coming out the door in each connector. They are Black/White wires. Rather than try and tell you which one is specific to the amp I would try each one to test.
I would disconnect the connector and measure resistance from the Orange wire to both ground wires on the DOOR SIDE of the connector. If you get 0 ohms on one or both you have found your problem. If not, then measure the resistance on the other side of the connector and you should get 0 ohms.
I would then go to the other door and do the same. We want to confirm the short is inside a door or in the car wiring. I think it is inside a door.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Mr. Sam
PS: If you feel like we need to discuss on the phone just PM me your number.
#15
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '12, '14
Each door connector for the speakers uses the 10 cavity connector in the accordion of each door. Fuse 28 feeds the ONLY pure Orange wire in each door. There is an Orange/Black wire which is NOT the one you want.
There are 2 ground wires coming out the door in each connector. They are Black/White wires. Rather than try and tell you which one is specific to the amp I would try each one to test.
I would disconnect the connector and measure resistance from the Orange wire to both ground wires on the DOOR SIDE of the connector. If you get 0 ohms on one or both you have found your problem. If not, then measure the resistance on the other side of the connector and you should get 0 ohms.
I would then go to the other door and do the same. We want to confirm the short is inside a door or in the car wiring. I think it is inside a door.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Mr. Sam
PS: If you feel like we need to discuss on the phone just PM me your number.
There are 2 ground wires coming out the door in each connector. They are Black/White wires. Rather than try and tell you which one is specific to the amp I would try each one to test.
I would disconnect the connector and measure resistance from the Orange wire to both ground wires on the DOOR SIDE of the connector. If you get 0 ohms on one or both you have found your problem. If not, then measure the resistance on the other side of the connector and you should get 0 ohms.
I would then go to the other door and do the same. We want to confirm the short is inside a door or in the car wiring. I think it is inside a door.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Mr. Sam
PS: If you feel like we need to discuss on the phone just PM me your number.
I just went out and spent some time investigating the problem. Since I suspected the driver's side amp to be the problem, I went ahead and threw in a new fuse and disconnected the connector from the driver's side. I fired up the stereo and sure enough, I was getting bass out of the passenger's side speaker. When I take the car back to New Jersey next week I'll go ahead and tear apart the driver's door and inspect the wiring and the amp itself. Thanks for all of your help!
#16
Le Mans Master
Excellent. Let me know if I can help further. Keep us informed.
I figured it was probably one of the amps, but which one? Looks like you found it.
Let's just make sure it is not a wiring short in the left door and not the amp. Trust but verify.
I figured it was probably one of the amps, but which one? Looks like you found it.
Let's just make sure it is not a wiring short in the left door and not the amp. Trust but verify.
#17
Melting Slicks
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So I pulled the door apart today, wiring was fine, so I swapped the speaker. Everything works great now! Thanks for all of your help
#20
Le Mans Master
Should be easy to find in the amp. The speakers should still be good even if you don't fix the amp. You can verify if they are good with just an ohmmeter reading across the coil of each.