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well lonestar I guess what ever flicks your bic, but for a stock clutch, you don't need anything but a stock master. If a Tick MC solved your problem whoopee for you. I think a good look at the OP's symptoms is warranted before he goes about spending money on parts. What I suggested?; find the root cause and fix IT.
Bottom line is a stock clutch needs to move so much, and a stock slave will get you there along with a stock MC. Unless you put some high pressure clutch that needs more oumph, stock should work. At the end of the day a Tick MC provides more hydraulic advantage, which would translate to a tolerable leg force for a big boy clutch. Is a Tick MC "better " than a stock?; probably. Needed for this situation? Maybe.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by k24556
well lonestar I guess what ever flicks your bic, but for a stock clutch, you don't need anything but a stock master. If a Tick MC solved your problem whoopee for you. I think a good look at the OP's symptoms is warranted before he goes about spending money on parts. What I suggested?; find the root cause and fix IT.
Bottom line is a stock clutch needs to move so much, and a stock slave will get you there along with a stock MC. Unless you put some high pressure clutch that needs more oumph, stock should work. At the end of the day a Tick MC provides more hydraulic advantage, which would translate to a tolerable leg force for a big boy clutch. Is a Tick MC "better " than a stock?; probably. Needed for this situation? Maybe.
I related the story of what happened to ME, the symptoms I had (identical to the OP), and what I did. It sounds like you're saying (or at least inferring) I didn't need a Tick MC or at least maybe I should have "bled" the system properly, or otherwise addressed the situation properly.
YOU sir, have no idea WHAT all I tried, or went through, to address the "pedal to the floor" or "pedal failure to return" problem a number of years ago, (along with dozens of other C5 Corvette owners here on these boards) and you also have no idea what clutch I have at present. Also, your assumption that a "big boy" clutch (your words not mine) has, or may need, more "oumph" requiring more leg pressure needs, is also wrong.
You assume much but actually KNOW little about my particulars, as to what all I did, and it's definitely not my job to inform you or educate you as what all I did, or did not do.
If that flicks your Bic, so be it. "Whoopee" for you.
Here is my experience. Bought my C5 almost 3 years ago and was heading to work one day and the pedal stuck to the floor. I had the car only a month at that point. Fortunately I was not far from home and was able to nurse it home.
I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed a little fluid seep, nothing major maybe a few drops but that got me headed in the direction of the clutch master. I did some research and things seemed to point to the clutch master or the slave. Since the master was the easier of the two I bought a TIC master and installed it.
That kept me going until about 8 months ago, then the clutch started engaging about an inch off the floor and getting harder to shift. I replaced the clutch with a Monster Stage 2 and added a remote bleeder.
Since you have had everything replaced but the master I would start there, but see what the shop you had do the clutch work has to say.
Here is my experience. Bought my C5 almost 3 years ago and was heading to work one day and the pedal stuck to the floor. I had the car only a month at that point. Fortunately I was not far from home and was able to nurse it home.
I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed a little fluid seep, nothing major maybe a few drops but that got me headed in the direction of the clutch master. I did some research and things seemed to point to the clutch master or the slave. Since the master was the easier of the two I bought a TIC master and installed it.
That kept me going until about 8 months ago, then the clutch started engaging about an inch off the floor and getting harder to shift. I replaced the clutch with a Monster Stage 2 and added a remote bleeder.
Since you have had everything replaced but the master I would start there, but see what the shop you had do the clutch work has to say.
It has a new master cylinder. Everything was working great, then the pedal started to momentarily hesitate on release. Engine off or on.
For me, the Tick master was the only thing that solved my problems. 2 new GM slaves, 1 new GM master, remote bleeder, aftermarket clutch did nothing for my pedal. In fact, the aftermarket clutch made it worse! Tick master made it right, and since the pedal is adjustable no worries about overstroking the slave.
For me, the Tick master was the only thing that solved my problems. 2 new GM slaves, 1 new GM master, remote bleeder, aftermarket clutch did nothing for my pedal. In fact, the aftermarket clutch made it worse! Tick master made it right, and since the pedal is adjustable no worries about overstroking the slave.
I would consider the tick just to be able to adjust pedal height, and stroke. But, would like to have the same bore size to keep the effort the same.
I would consider the tick just to be able to adjust pedal height, and stroke. But, would like to have the same bore size to keep the effort the same.
I thought I'd seen a mention of Tick making a 3/4" MC if you ask real nice, but I could be full of crap. I don't see why they couldn't, but you may pay extra and wait longer.
Apologize if intruding on your thread but I don't know how to start one. My stock '98 with 98K miles has a problem with the clutch pedal staying near the floor, with maybe an inch of productive (resistant-like normal) travel. I can draw the pedal back up by hand. If I pump it dozens of times and let the car warm up, it functions normally: grips well, full travel returns after many shifts, no slipping. The fluid level is normal (I topped it off with the correct DOT brake fluid once at the start of the season) and clear.
Is my problem the master, the slave cylinder or something internal (ie like the forks not having enough spring to force the slave cylinder piston up)? Is this a repair I can do myself?
Thanks!
At the top left hand side of the C5 Tech page is a button that looks like this...
click on it to start a NEW thread.... Fill in the little short one line box with a brief description of your issue (Clutch Pedal Sticking) and then....Just highlight the info you have typed in this thread, right click on it and click on copy.... then when you get to the part on your new thread for the text in the box... right click and paste your info there...
you can delete your text here to clean up this thread and I will delete mine also..
you get to the delete by clicking on the edit button
Last edited by 73Corvette; 05-05-2015 at 08:18 AM.
Well, I hope that the too simple of fix I did works then. Too much rain to try out now. I cut a 1/8 in. thick piece of 1 in. aluminum flat stock 1 inch long and used 3m tape to stick it on the backside of the pedal stop on the clutch pedal. With the difference in ratio, I think it should take up 1/2 in. of slack at the bottom. Easy enough to use different thickness's of spacers. With the engine off the pedal feels like it in not hanging up at full stroke. Will post back after I try driving it. Thanks
Well, I hope that the too simple of fix I did works then. Too much rain to try out now. I cut a 1/8 in. thick piece of 1 in. aluminum flat stock 1 inch long and used 3m tape to stick it on the backside of the pedal stop on the clutch pedal. With the difference in ratio, I think it should take up 1/2 in. of slack at the bottom. Easy enough to use different thickness's of spacers. With the engine off the pedal feels like it in not hanging up at full stroke. Will post back after I try driving it. Thanks
Has anyone tried to adjust the bottom stop? Still waiting to test it, but certainly it can't be this easy to adjust the clutch. To me that is, a big piece of the puzzle is a too high hydraulic clutch engagement point, and overly compressing the diaphragm spring on the clutch near center, with less retract pressure. Wouldn't that be the only obvious adjustment for clutch wear? My way of thinking right, or wrong, is I need to add spacers to the clutch stop as the clutch wears, to keep the engagement point the same?
Has anyone tried to adjust the bottom stop? Still waiting to test it, but certainly it can't be this easy to adjust the clutch. To me that is, a big piece of the puzzle is a too high hydraulic clutch engagement point, and overly compressing the diaphragm spring on the clutch near center, with less retract pressure. Wouldn't that be the only obvious adjustment for clutch wear? My way of thinking right, or wrong, is I need to add spacers to the clutch stop as the clutch wears, to keep the engagement point the same?
My clutch pedal 04... has a little tab on the side of it that I think servers as the stop when it hits the switch in the foot well.. I think you could drill and tap that tab and have an adjustable travel... just put a bolt in it and use some blue loctite to keep it in place
Well, that was the easiest clutch mod I've ever done! Added 1 in square by 1/8in thick aluminum to the switch/stop tab on the clutch pedal arm. Taped one to the other until I had used up 90% of the play at the bottom clutch stroke. Simply by using 3 little spacers. I will go be to 2 spacers, then add the other one when the clutch wears a little more. Pedal does not stick now, and engagement is at the perfect point, and less overall travel for quicker shifts. Can't believe more people have not tried this. TRY IT! Easy, free, and takes 5 minutes. If it works I will call it the
"Redhots clutch adjustment"
Well, that was the easiest clutch mod I've ever done! Added 1 in square by 1/8in thick aluminum to the switch/stop tab on the clutch pedal arm. Taped one to the other until I had used up 90% of the play at the bottom clutch stroke. Simply by using 3 little spacers. I will go be to 2 spacers, then add the other one when the clutch wears a little more. Pedal does not stick now, and engagement is at the perfect point, and less overall travel for quicker shifts. Can't believe more people have not tried this. TRY IT! Easy, free, and takes 5 minutes. If it works I will call it the
"Redhots clutch adjustment"
New Sticky for the Sticky Clutch: Redhots clutch adjustment
New Sticky for the Sticky Clutch: Redhots clutch adjustment
Necessity... the Mother of invention/creativity.
Works great! Took me 4 tries and only 20 minutes to get my clutch adjusted perfectly, and free! Starter interlock works the same too. No adjustment needed. No drilling or anything to the clutch arm. Just couple inches of tape and aluminum is it. The excess lag/travel at the bottom of the pedal stroke can adjusted to your liking.
05-02-2015, 06:59 PM
