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So I let my 18 year old learn how to drive stick.

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Old 05-04-2015, 02:26 PM
  #41  
strand rider
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Glad you could handle your son's learning curve , it seem a dropped valve is something that can be handled without much upset in your household. Bringing good values to a kid sometimes is a personal test, but who would complain about a chance to teach a kid, as long as the wallet holds out.

IN high school, long ago , back in the days of new 427 fastback stingrays , I had a friend that worked after school at the local chevy dealership, they sold and repaired lot of vettes.
My friend was a good kid, and ,in his second year of work at the lot, they flipped him the keys to a customers 427 stingray to go get a part, a treat you earned over time, it meant you were judged worthy , a sign of earned respect. He took the car out and wrapped it around a telephone pole.

AS an ex teenager, I advocate low powered cars for learners.
Old 05-04-2015, 02:34 PM
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I'm just curious why everyone thinks an over-rev that resulted in a single valve hitting the piston managed to pull the seat out of the head. How'd that happen?
Old 05-04-2015, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I'm just curious why everyone thinks an over-rev that resulted in a single valve hitting the piston managed to pull the seat out of the head. How'd that happen?
Bet the valve got just bent enough so one edge could get under the seat when the valve tried to close (look at the pic). Over-revving on a down shift would be what most likely caused the issue.
Old 05-04-2015, 04:28 PM
  #44  
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Except the valve isn't under the seat at all, the edge of the valve is just sitting against the seat.
Old 05-04-2015, 09:17 PM
  #45  
Bill Curlee
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4


But the $64,000 question, Bill...........Did you drop a valve while doing this??


LOL!! The only thing that I dropped was 500 Miles off a brand new set of rear tires!!

But that was expected and FUN!

BC
Old 05-05-2015, 12:56 AM
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Something else forgot to mention is that the bearing on the roker arm fell out and the bearing "*****/beads" were all near that valve with a couple of broken ones.
Old 05-05-2015, 01:00 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Ray 2000 C5 FRC
I am curious to see what the surfaces of the cam and lifter to that specific value looks like.
I will take pictures of the cam and lifter once they come out.
Old 05-05-2015, 08:56 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
Except the valve isn't under the seat at all, the edge of the valve is just sitting against the seat.
Looks like the valve got bent and one edge got under the seat at some point, you're just seeing the aftermath.
Old 05-05-2015, 09:56 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by bluevette2001
Looks like the valve got bent and one edge got under the seat at some point, you're just seeing the aftermath.

You should get an old head and valve and try to prove that theory.
Old 05-05-2015, 11:14 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
You should get an old head and valve and try to prove that theory.
Why? It got over revved, pure and simple. Valve hit piston, bent valve, END OF STORY.
Old 05-05-2015, 03:57 PM
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Good for you to trust your son. Nothing about these machines is irreparable, and I'm sure he respects you a lot for giving him the opportunity. In the event he did something he knows he shouldnt have, my guess is that he wont ever do it again. My parents were the opposite and never gave me the chance. As a consequence I learned how to drive in moms car while the parents were out in Dads car :p Lucky me nothing ever happened. But that was a good lesson to me for when I have kids!
Old 05-05-2015, 05:17 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by bluevette2001
Bet the valve got just bent enough so one edge could get under the seat when the valve tried to close (look at the pic). Over-revving on a down shift would be what most likely caused the issue.
No way for a valve to get under the seat while it's still attached to the stem.

Dropped a seat, that's all. Probably would have done that no matter who was driving at the time. Can't blame the kid for that IMHO. Camshaft is probably ok, but you want a new one any ways.

Guys keep saying dropped valve. Looks like it's still attached to the stem to me. Ain't the first aluminum head to lose a seat.

Last edited by 92GA; 05-05-2015 at 05:20 PM.
Old 05-05-2015, 08:26 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 92GA
No way for a valve to get under the seat while it's still attached to the stem.
Exactly.

You'd have to detach the head and use a hammer to get the edge of the valve under the seat.
Old 05-05-2015, 11:02 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Wikedc5
I will take pictures of the cam and lifter once they come out.
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the lifters all looked the same, did not see any damage. The pushrods were all straight and looking through the engine the cam is also not hurt.
Old 05-14-2015, 10:54 PM
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Got my heads back. They look great and I'm going with 54-408-11 comp cam.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:00 PM
  #56  
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:37 PM
  #57  
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Have you considered using ARP Head Studs vs the OEM Torque to yield head bolts?





WELL WORTH THE EXPENSE!

AND!

DO NOT forget to make absolutely SURE that there isn't ANY coolant,, liquid or DIRT in the block head bolt holes. Use a long Q Tip and check!!

If you don't, the head bolts will RUPTURE the block when you torque then in!!! The block bolt holes are BLIND HOLES!


Bill

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Old 05-15-2015, 03:10 PM
  #58  
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My children both learned to drive performance cars early in their driving careers, both sticks and automatics. A turbocharged and inter-cooled Eclipse (a very stout machine), modded Z/28's, Trans-Am's, a Challenger R/T, a Charger R/T, modded Jeeps, and my Corvettes. No wrecks or tickets. Not even a scrape. I guess I was lucky...or my kids were pretty responsible.
Old 05-18-2015, 09:19 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by CaseyJones
My children both learned to drive performance cars early in their driving careers, both sticks and automatics. A turbocharged and inter-cooled Eclipse (a very stout machine), modded Z/28's, Trans-Am's, a Challenger R/T, a Charger R/T, modded Jeeps, and my Corvettes. No wrecks or tickets. Not even a scrape. I guess I was lucky...or my kids were pretty responsible.
My oldest learned to drive stick in the vetted and has driven it since ......in occasions. Do I worry...sure but I to believe they are responsible.
Old 05-18-2015, 09:26 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Have you considered using ARP Head Studs vs the OEM Torque to yield head bolts?





WELL WORTH THE EXPENSE!

AND!

DO NOT forget to make absolutely SURE that there isn't ANY coolant,, liquid or DIRT in the block head bolt holes. Use a long Q Tip and check!!

If you don't, the head bolts will RUPTURE the block when you torque then in!!! The block bolt holes are BLIND HOLES!


Bill
Thanks, I did clean the holes but did not get the ARP bolts but I hope not to take the engine apart again any time soon.


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