Forrest_H

Hey everyone,

My hardtop has just kicked 60,xxxx miles, and the balancer definitely needs to be replaced. I know (and apologize) this topic has been brought up several, SEVERAL times, but it's more of a question of "is it worth it to do on my own".

I have qualms about both of my options, and I really just need opinions.

My first option is to just do it myself. This is doable, since I have (I think) all the necessary tools to throw in an ATI pulley (stock diameter, I don't want to mess with underdrive just yet). However, I am super freaked out to even touch the steering rack, and I don't want to be the reason my DD dies.

My second option is to just pay someone else to do it in the Austin area. Corvette World quoted me $800 if I provide the parts. The other shop of whom I'm friends with the owner, Elite Motorsports, said that was a bit too much. I have no idea how to gauge the labor since I know getting in there isn't really an easy task. I would just get Elite to do it, but they are in the middle of race season, so they're backed up like crazy.

TL;DR: Is this something you guys would take on with no worries, or would you rather have a shop do it? And how much would you be willing to pay to actually have it done?

Thank you guys so much! I'm sorry again for bringing up such an overdone topic, but I'm stuck, and I don't want my crank bearing to kill itself because I'm being indecisive.

Pounder

We don't know your ability, just by you being reluctant I would say no ??? A very subjective question !!!!!!!!!!

Forrest_H

Argh, I should have written more about that. Sorry.

My mechanical experience with cars has been pretty much limited to german cars, but I have done similar replacements on said cars. My only fear of doing it myself is seating the balancer incorrectly, or reinstalling the steering rack completely wrong.

It is very subjective, I suppose it's kind of hard to answer this. Really what I want to know is "How easy is it to completely screw this up?"

Thanks for the reply

Forcedvert

I would consider doing more than just damper to make the labor cost effective, cam and headers or supercharger or something else to dilute cost. I would not put a stock damper back on, get a good aftermarket, and I would pin it while you are in there in case you do go sc later.....one of the hardest things about installing a sc from what I read.

Good luck

c_white

First straighten out the wheels then take 2 tie downs and hook ur steering wheel on one end and the other to the seat brackets to keep ur wheel centered. Take a sharpie and mark the steering knuckle, set it to the side and don't turn it!!!!! The marks there just in case it does turn u know what side went with what. Loosen the front cradle then wedge a flat screw driver in to gain the small amount if clearance u need to pull the rack out; be careful Cuz once the fittings are off u can squirt fluid out if pushing/pulling on the end rods.

now u can buy a longer crank bolt or go get a foot long chunk of all-thread is the only real special tool u need.

Forrest_H

That makes sense. I was looking at picking up a set of headers to get installed as well, but unfortunately I don't have the grand required to order some The cam might be doable, but I'm worried about the longevity of my car after the fact. It's a daily driver, so I'm not looking to do anything crazy. Maybe though!

Regarding the stock damper comment, are you saying that I shouldn't go with the regular size, or that I shouldn't go OEM? I have no plans to go back with the OEM pulley (despite it being cheaper), but I don't want to go under drive all that much. Would you say that I should go with the 10% ATI as opposed to the Normal ATI?

I gotcha! So cautiousness is key here. Maybe it wouldn't be such a bad weekend project after all. Thank you so much!

Thanks everyone who has replied so far! Definitely helps out my inexperienced self a lot

apex26

I did that job last summer on my Z06. It kills a weekend, but usually every time I pay for a service, I get disappointed with the slap-dash "workmanship". There's no reason to screw it up, just go by the book. "Froggy" has a really helpful youtube about the entire job. BTW, I went with an SFI one piece fluidamper, which is 6% underdrive, nice piece. The hardest part was torqueing the crank bolt something like 275? ft lbs, I think I got the large torque wrench from Home Depot.

Forcedvert

I'm simply saying not OEM, I made that mistake, my mechanic put a stock one on with my supercharger and it was wobbling almost as soon as I first looked at it, as far as under/ stock or evan overdrive I suppose that depends on future goals. I bought an ati blem on eBay, brand new from ati!
And who cares about small scratches you can't see when it's installed.

Chicago1

Did mine it's pretty easy if your first time plan on a weekend after awhile...4hrs..Might as well throw a cam in there and do some upgrades while your in there. Doesnt the timing chain have to be replaced at 100k?

Trios

God, I hope not, or I'm on seriously borrowed time...

neutron82

if you were closer to me I'd give you a hand with it or do it for half of what that shop quoted you and make us both happy... I have had mine on and off for various reasons a handful of times and to me it really isn't that bad of a job, but I probably work on mine more than some other members... I would not worry about strapping your steering wheel down and marking the steering shaft... I won't lie, I did that the first time I moved my rack because I was scared and then I found out that the steering shaft will only go on the rack in one position and the wheel will not move itself so as long as you are aware that it shouldn't be moved then you will be fine... the reason you don't want to turn it is because you can damage some of the wiring on the column... and you also do not have to remove the rack completely from the car, you can move it over towards the passenger side as far as it will go and then tilt the driver side tie rod end up and out of the way of the balancer and you should have a clear shot at it... removing the cooling fans will give you some extra room to work with and you might also consider removing the front sway bar but it isn't necessary, just whatever makes you feel more comfortable

Chicago1

I just checked there is no specific mileage it can go as long as the motor lives.. wasnt sure why I though that so disregard. I changed mine when I did my cam

Forrest_H

I've been watching his videos, that was actually what made me realize the balancer was failing.

I might have to check into the SFI, if it's cheaper. My paycheck just barely cuts it for right now That torque seems like the right value from what I remember, luckily I have a torque wrench laying around that should work. Thanks for the confidence boost

Ahh, okay. I figured

Hopefully I can find a deal like that! The prices from JEGS seem really crazy! Thanks again

Agreed, if I lived closer I would be more than happy to throw cash your way to do this

That's reassuring, I guess there's not a huge margin for error here. This is starting to look like something I'll do once I'm back from Dallas this weekend. Thank you so much!

Thanks a lot guys! I really appreciate your thoughts

73Corvette

Let us know how it goes.... any curves it throws you or what a newbie can expect to encounter... Good luck

Cratecruncher

I concur w/Neutron82 about the steering. I found the most challenging part to be getting enough torque on the balancer bolt. I think it's more than 275#ft because the manual specifies an angle to continue rotating the bolt once you hit an amount most torque wrenches max at. Surprised I didn't get a hernia. It's a big bolt and changes shape when torqued correctly. That's why it must be replaced each time. Plan to have a method to hold the crankshaft. If you think putting the trans in 6th forget that. The drivetrain is like a rubber band. Calvan I think make a special tool that bolts to the starter mounting but it's hard to find. I'd loan you mine but I sold it and my other stuff to another CF member as soon as I completed the job. BTW, I bought a Powerbond aftermarket balancer at O'Rileys that has been terrific. Plan to replace the oil seal behind the balancer because they harden and fail.

K-Spaz

I did that job about a month or so ago. My car is an automatic so there's the bolt heads that stick out of the flexplate holding the converter on. I made my own flywheel lock that used those bolt heads to keep the crank from turning. It did have 1/6th a rev loose play when changing directions. Not the end of the world. My 3/4" drive impact wrench would not remove the bolt even after I'd loosened it 1/2 a turn. There's incredible torque on that bolt.

You need the flywheel lock, that's a certainty. I made my own install tool, had to modify my puller for the oem balancer. Other than that, it wasn't all that bad. A service manual is a real help, like with all projects.

I needed a hella big pipe for breaking the bolt loose, and also for putting the new bolt back in. I bought the ARP bolt, then had to go buy a 27mm 12pt socket to install it with, I didn't have one.

The job wasn't horrible, but it sure wasn't fun.

Chicago1

it's 240 lbs and it's not that hard just use a breaker bar. Then the new bolt gets 37lbs then once the new bolts is at 37lbs you turn it 140degrees past that point..This is with a oem bolt so the arp may require something different

Forrest_H

Absolutely. I'm likely taking this friday off in order to get it on there. Thanks!

good to know about holding the crankshaft in place, I think I'll have to dig around to see how exactly I'm going to go about doing this. Thanks for the advice!

How did you go about making a lock for the flywheel? that sounds like something I'm going to need to know I think I'll have to order the ARP bolt as well, since I neglected that at 4 a.m. when I decided to finally order it. Thanks for the help!

Okay, so 240 lbs with the OEM, and potentially 275 lbs with the ARP bolt. Good to know, thanks!

Well, sorry for bumping a slightly-necro thread,but I figured I'd just continue on here rather than start an entirely new thread.

I've ordered the pulley, sheesh those prices! I think I might have to wait until pay day to put it in, as I forgot to order a different bolt. Looks like I'm going with the ARP. I'll try to post some pics and potentially a video for new guys like me who have no idea what they're getting into Thanks everyone for your help! If you guys have any other tips for me, they are absolutely welcome.

Chicago1

I don't know what the arp is I'm going off the factory manual. How much was the balancer? I got my power bond for around 100 bucks I thought that was a good price new

Forrest_H

I think I got my ATI for $500. Originally I thought it was like $265, but that was for a 3800 engine when I looked closer at the pulley before I bought it

I'm wondering if I should have gone power bond with mine, but the fact that a lot of the LS guys around here that I know swear by ATI makes me more content with spending a lot of my bolt-ons fund