DD-MOTOR-BOATER

**UPDATE** READ MY LAST POST. STILL NOT FIXED**

Hey guys, like the title says I was on a little road trip and hit a bump in a construction zone and now my car seriously runs like doo doo lol. I'll do my best here to describe the chain of events to give you guys a good picture of what's going on so you can better help me.

Anyhow, I went home (Kentucky) to pick up my c5z that I bought in November. I currently like in North Dakota, so I had about a 20 hour drive ahead of me. Fast forward 14 hours into the trip the car is running smooth as silk, no problems whatsoever. I had the cruise set at 75 with the A/C blowing ice cold all day long. Well the next day I'm about 2.5 hours into the remainder of my drive and I come to a construction zone like I had countless times on this trip. Well I see a sign ahead that says bump, so I down shift and keep the car around 40ish (55 mph zone). Well turns out they are repaving this section of road and the bump turns out to be about 4-6 inches of fresh pavement just laid on top of the existing road without any type of slope to act as a ramp. So needless to say I hit this rather harshly and it hurt. I didn't think too much of it cause it didn't sound terrible at all and at most I though it had brushed the exhaust a little given my car is slammed on stock bolts. Well about 100 feet after the bump the dash goes crazy saying the whole reduced power and service TCS and completely shuts off.

Long story short, I spend the remainder of my try on a flatbed being taken to my garage.

What the car is doing:

-Rough Idle
-Boost gauge is only showing -10 vacuum when normally at -20 ish at idle
-Car immediately dies when trying to give it gas
-Raw fuel smell (car is tuned rich to be on the safe side, but this is excessive)
-To give the car gas I have to bounce the pedal
-Once able to bring RPM's up the car spits, sputters, surges, pops, backfires, ect...
-Throws numerous codes to include : C1278, P0102, P0103, P0107 most commonly
-Car is tuned on 93 and spraying alky. The only fuel I have up here is 91 with 10% ethanol. I ran one tank of 91 through it with no problmes during the road trip before problem occured.
**-Sometimes car will idle pretty normal but still reads high on the boost gauge compared to the norms.

What I have found/fixed:

-Found cut wire on driver side upstream o2 sensor. REPLACED
-Found dangling sensor behind driver side fuel rail (Light Blue in color). Reconnected
-Pulled all 8 spark plugs/appeared to be fowled out probably from bad o2 sensor. About half were so bad they had fuel dripping off of them. REPLACED with 8 brand new NGK TR6's that the previous owner had in the car gaped at .35. Seems to have giving me better idle but still sounds like all hell when I give it the go pedal and stalls out.
-Sprayed flammable break cleaner on and around throttle body and intake manifold to check for a possible vacuum leak. NO RESULTS
-Fuel pump primes and runs great. Fuel pressure shows 60 psi throughout when running. Sensor is in Fuel Pressure Regulator.

I honestly have simply ran out of ideas. To me it seems like a horrific vacuum leak from hell given the fact my gauge is way off and giving it gas causes the car to fall on its face and die. Anyway here I am asking you guys, hoping like hell I'm not the first one to encounter this problem. I will continue to update the thread after testing new ideas.

MOD LIST BELOW:

Engine:
383c.i. LS6
Callies Crank
Callies H-Beam Rods
Weisco Forged -32cc dished pistons
241 Heads -Ported, Polished, Milled
Stage IV A&A Blower Cam
ARP Headstuds, LS9 Head gaskets
LS6 Intake/Throttle Body/3-bar MAP sensor
Innovative West 8” 8-Rib crank pulley


Power Adder:
A&A Procharger F1-A 8-Rib with a 4.25” Pulley (18 psi)
Flip Drive Setup (8 Rib Supercharger, 6 Rib Accessory)
4” Air Filter Intake Tube
A&A Intercooler and Tial 50mm BOV


Fuel:
Alky-Control Twin Nozzle Methanol System
Racetronics in-tank Fuel Pump and Harness
Secondary external fuel pump on a Hobb’s switch (KY Speed fuel system)
80lb Siemens Injectors
Stock LS6 fuel rails


Cooling:
Dewitts 2” Cut-Down Radiator
Dewitts/SPALDual Fan Setup
180 Degree Thermostat


Exhaust:
Kooks Long Tubes
Kooks O/R X-pipe
Corsa Indy Car Exhaust


Drivetrain:
RPM Stage III Differential
C6 Z06 Short Shaft and Gear
C6 Z06 HD Limited Slip ClutchPack/Springs
C6 Z06 Pinion Support
DTE Hardened output shaft
Micropolished, 30-Spline, 3.42 Motive gearset*
Built T-56 (RPM Stage IV Equivalent)*
Steel Shift Fork
Bronze Shift Pads
Carbon Synchronizers (1-2, 2-3)
Billet Blocker Rings (1-2, 2-3, 3-4)
Tremec 30-Spline C6Z06 Mainshaft
New bearings/seals, Amsoil oil, etc.
B&M Precision Shifter
Six Shooter polyurethane driveline/torque tube couplers
Hinson Supercar polyurethane differential/transmission mount
C6Z06 FactoryShocks
1/4" AluminumTunnel Plate


Miscellaneous:
Autometer Cobalt Fuel Pressure and Boost Gauge
RK Sport High-Rise Cowl Hood
Lowered on Stock bolts
CCW 505a 18x10/18x11.5
Dilled/Slotted Black Zinc Rotors
Hawk Ceramic Pads
315/35/18 Toyo TQ Drag Radials
Radioflyer 4500k Hella Pop-Up Light Cannons with 4-Hi harness
Halo-LED Taillights
LED Switchback Turn Signals*
Lloyd FloorMats
Lloyd decklidtray/mat
Lloyd TrunkMat
Cabin/TrunkPartition
Column Lock By-Pass

BoostSlam

I posted to your other thread but check to see if any of the fuses are popping on your fuel system. I popped both front and rear boost a pumps fuses from the Hobbs switch grounding out on the brake booster. Worth a shot. Good luck with the issue man.

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

Not a bad idea cause my Hobbs switch is right down next to my alky pump which is kinda in the same location as the o2 sensor that I found with a pinched off wire. I'll have to check once I get to this damn computer and check connections.

73Corvette

Have you checked you battery connections? Starter connections? Maybe losing some voltage some place that is causing some weird issues... just trying to think out of the box.

Any Codes?

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

I honestly think it's a server vacuum leak. The car is idling pretty good now, I just can't get it gas or it will die on me. And like I said in the op, my boost gauge is way off from where it should be at idle. Normally idles around -20 psi and right now it's at -10. Also just found gas in my oil... yaaay :/ but that's my fault for trying to get it to start on the side of the road the other day

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

Anyone????

Chicago1

Boost leak check it through the brake booster you will know if you have a vac leak. Also visually check your intercooler pipes for something obvious before you boost leak check. lots of videos on you tube how to boost leak check...and have you checked all your grounds? What current codes do you have now at this very moment?


http://www.toquez06.com/ground.html

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

How do you test for leaks through the break booster? That's a new one for me. Also could a loose or bad ground really cause my problem? I haven't checked them because I didn't think it was possible to be some kind of electrical problem.

Currently it hasn't thrown any codes. But before I cleared them it was the p0102, p0103, p0107, and the c1278 codes. Today I really thought it was the map sensor so I tore into it and found what I thought was it missing its plug. However, it looks like they hard wired the brick style 3 bar map sensor into. I was told it was a zr1 3 bar map sensor. I guess this weekend I'll check the grounds and do the break booster test if I can figure out how to do so. Thanks for the input

[QUOTE=Chicago1;1589717061]Boost leak check it through the brake booster you will know if you have a vac leak. Also visually check your intercooler pipes for something obvious before you boost leak check. lots of videos on you tube how to boost leak check...and have you checked all your grounds? What current codes do you have now at this very moment?

z-street79

[QUOTE=DD-MOTOR-BOATER;1589718158]How do you test for leaks through the break booster? That's a new one for me. Also could a loose or bad ground really cause my problem? I haven't checked them because I didn't think it was possible to be some kind of electrical problem.

Currently it hasn't thrown any codes. But before I cleared them it was the p0102, p0103, p0107, and the c1278 codes. Today I really thought it was the map sensor so I tore into it and found what I thought was it missing its plug. However, it looks like they hard wired the brick style 3 bar map sensor into. I was told it was a zr1 3 bar map sensor. I guess this weekend I'll check the grounds and do the break booster test if I can figure out how to do so. Thanks for the input


Im not sure if you mentioned this but did you test the MAF sensor as well? I would check that too according to the codes its throwing...

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

From I've been able to find, the car is running a speed density tune and no longer has the maf sensor. Thanks

Im not sure if you mentioned this but did you test the MAF sensor as well? I would check that too according to the codes its throwing...[/QUOTE]

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

I have been able to drive it a little the past couple of days but the problem still exist and I have to limp it back home on both occasions.

Anyhow, I'm pretty sure it's either a problem with the map sensor or maybe a bad battery. I'm leaning more towards the map sensor though. The map sensor setup on my car is kind of weird. I have the factory map sensor plugged into the back of the manifold with the vacuum lines connected to it. However, the pigtail is not plugged into the sensor. Instead, it is plugged into a brick style 3 bar map sensor.

The problems I'm still seeing is low rpm and rough idle at start up for about 5 minutes and then she idles up and runs normal. Once I start driving the car it will either run normal or leave me on the side of the road. When it does act up it says reduced power and service tcs and kills the car. It also throws the codes p0102, p0103, p0107 and sometimes c1278. Most commonly it's the three regarding the map sensor. To get the car running, all I have to do is clear the codes and then smack the map sensor around and then she fires up and runs like a raped ape. I don't believe the sensor is bad cause I tested it with a volt meter and it reads 4.5 dc volts as it calls for. My guess is where the wires run down to the inside of the car on the drivers side, are somehow loose and giving me low voltage. Then when I wiggle them it gives it more contact and solves the issue momentarily.

The reason I don't think it's the battery is because I'm still reading 11.4 volts before I even start it. then while running it reads from 13.4 to 14.2.


Thoughts??

dadaroo

11.4 Volts BEFORE you start it? Your battery is DOA. No wonder you are having electronics issues on startup up.

A fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more.

It's not 12 volts it's 12.6 because each cell is 2.1 volts.

If the battery is

12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained

73Corvette

Mmmmm I think I mentioned something about low voltage and battery 9 days ago...

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

Yes you did in fact mention the battery and voltage, however the car has never showed a problem with trying to start or anything that's why I never worried to much about the battery. I just don't want to throw money at it in hopes it fixes the issue. Buy for good measure I checked the volts today with just the key on and it shows 11.8 without it running so I'll go pick up a battery. However, it did start without issues today.

Here's the other kicker and I will admit I am an absolute idiot for not figuring this out sooner, but my car runs a brick style 3 bar map sensor. It is relocated into the driver side fender well. The harness I thought was the map sensor , is just a pigtail extension. Like I said in my previous post, when the car acts up, I just clear the codes and literally smack this clip on the extension and it fires right up like normal. For good measure I'm going to replace it too.

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

Okay I put a new optima red top in the car. I didn't take the car out to actually drive it but I did let it idle for about 30 minutes. After letting it idle the display shows 11.8 volts with just the key on, once I start the car it reads 14.1-14.4. So if it helped or not, the battery is just proactive maintenance either way.

Tomorrow I'm going to pull that pigtail extension to my map sensor and see if it will ohm out. I may just order another one just for the hell of it. I'm thinking there may be a loose wire in the female end of the plug because when it does throw a fit I can just wiggle the connection block around and it solves the problem momentarily. I may just pull it apart and see if I can find a connection issue in that female part of the extension.

dadaroo

Just some FYI. The car will crank with low volts so long as the starter is getting enough current. The starter is not very voltage sensitive but very current sensitive. The electronics are VERY voltage sensitive. however.

Nickbeam

How is the 3 bar map sensor hooked up? Is it spliced into the factory MAP harness and connected with a vacuum line? I would make sure all those connections are good.

dadaroo

Here are the pin outs at the PCM connectors so you can do continuity checks for a bad wire or wires.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cm30dxrbf0...Views.pdf?dl=0

If I know which module you want to check from I can tell you where each wire color lands.

I can post any schematics or diagnostics you need also.

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

Okay I don't really know where to begin. I put the new battery in and all my problems seemed to go away. Last night I took it out for about an hour and ever got her washed up. Well today, thinking everything is fine I took it to o'reilly to get the alternator checked just for good graces. Car ran great all the way here. The guy put the clamps on the battery and I started the car to do the test. Car started super rough and took about 2 minutes to get to a normal idle. Alternator checked out. So I tried to leave to get back home and the car would try to die when I gave it gas before I could even get out of the parking spot. Well I got it fired back up and everything seemed back to normal. Well I left out and made it about a 1/4 mile and the car just died. Now I'm on the side of the road and cannot get it started for anything, and it did not throw any codes. Just chilling here hoping on a miracle so I can get it back home.

The car starts but will not stay running. All it does is fire, but will not try to stay running. Starts and dies within seconds.

I am beyond frustrated right now.

DD-MOTOR-BOATER

Guessing the fuel pump has went out. Draining the tank and pulling the pump this weekend.