Bill Curlee

In the world of BIGGER is not always better,,, PUSHRODS fall into BIGGER (fatter) is ALWAYS BETTER!!

BC

nullpointer

Bigger is better in this case, but I am running 5/16" rods with 650 rwhp (Mustang numbers) and no signs of valve float or instability. I think you will be just fine with the rods you have, however if you really want to beef it up then the 3/8" will work fine.

My last H/C setup was a 231/236 cam with 5/16" rods and same results (no valve float, no instability).

KoreaJon

Thank you both for your input!

I went ahead and sent the wrong pushrods back and ordered a replacement set.

As of now, I'm waiting on parts.

I got the PCV system plumbed in...I didn't install the catch can yet, I still need to work on the location and mount bracket.

I'm in a bit of a quandary; I'm on the fence as to whether to do the first start on the engine using the existing tune, or to install my (work in progress) tune file. I have HP Tuners Pro, and have compiled what I ~think~ is a good starting point of a tune for the mods to the engine. On the other hand, I know that the car ran fine on the old tune, so by using it, I might might have an easier time with the initial runs / leak checks.
Any thoughts on this? Will the engine even START using the old tune?


Thanks in advance,
KoreaJon

Johnny wangwang

Thats a pretty big cam. But yeah itll start and all. Prob run rich. But you can tweak that as you go. Always make sure the cars runs first lol. Check oil pressure and check for leaks. Then start adjusting the tune as you go from there. If it were me Id start it with the old tune just so I didnt have as many variables to work with if something was wrong.

nullpointer

The last tune may not start due to startup airflow numbers not being correct. Either way I would be prepared to adjust the tune in between starts if it doesn't fire right up.

radar502

Very good write up .I will be doing the same this fall THANKS for the info .. I seen one thing that reminded me why I try to use JEGS when ever possible if they send you the wrong part ( Witch is not very often ) they will OVERNIGHT you the right one right now and just send the wrong part back on them whenever ..I have called them in the afternoon as UPS drove away as I was opening the box and DANG wrong and called and had the right part the BAM next morning ,that's a good felling . Just saying .. I am getting parts together right now for my cam build THANKS ..

KoreaJon

I decided to take your advice....I figure that the engine will run, and the STFT will attempt to get the fueling right.



I figured that I would try the old tune....not much to lose!!



I've used Jeg's in the past, but I decided to order from Tick Performance because during the planning phase of my build they took the time to answer some of my questions and provide feedback. USPS tracking indicates that they received the returned pushrods yesterday, so we'll see how long it takes to process my refund.


Thanks for the input, guys!


Regards,
KoreaJon

KoreaJon

Hi Guys,

I received the 3/8" pushrods from Tick Perf last night. I got the pushrods, rockers, covers, and coil packs installed without a hitch. Yes, I used liberal quantities of assy lube on the tips of the rods, as well as under the heads of the rocker bolts, and on both tips of the rockers!

I installed the battery, removed the WB O2 from the bung, and prepped it for the first start....which had to wait till this morning, as it was already almost 10PM, and my neighbors aren't NEARLY the Corvette fan that I am!

So, bright and early this morning I did the first start....turn key on, hear the fuel pump...turn key off, then back on again, fuel pump sounds good...turned the key, the engine MIGHT have turned two full revs, then sprang to life!

It cranked right up on the stock tune. Great oil pressure, the lifter noise went away in the right amount of time, no leaks, etc. Sounds really good.

I'm in the process of trying to edit he video I shot of the first and second runs....they are way too big for Photobucket. As soon as I get the size reduced I'll post them up.


Regards,
KoreaJon

KoreaJon

Here's links to the videos I shot of the first and second starts this morning.
When viewing the videos, please keep in mind that I am not Quentin Tarantino or Martin Scorcese.....no editing was done. I know that I really enjoy seeing what you guys are up to, so I figured that y'all might be interested to see what I'm doing!

First start:



Second start:




When I got home this evening I hooked up the WB O2 and data logged some more runs. I'm gonna spend some time on my tune file and try to dial this thing in!

Cheers,
KoreaJon

Jason913

hell yeah man, congrats on getting her alive again

radar502

Yes thanks for all the input really helps if doing the same witch I will be doing this fall on 04 Z.. Just a FYI briantooleyracing called them have some good parts and the $$$ are very good also.. Thanks

nullpointer

Congrats! She sounds great

IRON MAIDEN

Great job. I'm in the same boat. Been sitting on my parts for well over a year now. Curious on how many miles on your motor. I just turned 70K on mine.
Also the expected power. I too have 243 heads but sent mine to Advanced Induction for their cnc porting and such. I'm expecting to fall in the 430-440 range.
I'm unsure on the pushrods. Only parts I have yet to buy. Never used a checker so unsure about it. Also planning to put in a Monster clutch and other goodies in at same time. Just plan to get a decent tune to get it running fine and once the clutch is broke in< then take it to be tuned and dyno'd. I have the PB underdrive pulley as well. Although it is part # PBU1117-SS25
Pretty sure it is the right model. Just not sure on the belts as far as what to get to fit and also if I should even go under driven. May replace it with no under drive. Worried about my charging system as I have a big audio system going in.

KoreaJon

Hi IM,

I suspect that my engine has 112,000 miles. I'm not the original owner, but that's what the odometer says.
I bought the pushrod checker because I figured that it would be short-sighted of me to not spend $20 for the extra insurance.
I expect that I'll have approx. 400-420 RWHP, but I live in South Korea and do not know where a wheel dyno is.....so I plan to estimate my horsepower using mathematical calculations. I can weigh my car, myself, and time my acceleration to get a pretty good estimate of HP. Earlier in the year I was datalogging the engine and logged some 0-60 and -100mph runs, so I can repeat those and estimate my HP increase, as well.
I was really on the fence over the UD pulley. I have a biiig stereo, love the bass, which uses a lot of power. My concern was whether I would produce enough extra electrons while at idle to run the stereo and not discharge the battery. My buddy offered me the great deal on the UD pulley, so I (kind of) did it. That didn't work out, so I'm back to the previous one (stock size) To tell the truth, I'm kind of relieved that I DON'T have the UD pulley installed.

Thanks for the comments, and IHTH,

KoreaJon

KoreaJon

Thanks for the info....I have a set of their platinum springs (good for .650 lift) installed!


KoreaJon

KoreaJon

Hello Everyone,

I've been trying to figure out how to use my HP Tuners to tune my car....several guys on the C5 Scan & Tune forum have kindly offered their advice, but I ~just~ couldn't put 2 and 2 together and make the car run right.
I found an EXCELLENT couple of videos on youtube by a feller named Justin Sane (check out his videos....an 8 SECOND LS1!)

Here's the link to one of his videos:
After watching the videos last night, then sleeping on it, then watching again this morning, I started to do what he says, step by step.....I've attached a video of my car idling....REALLY well! After I got the car idling and going into gear without dying, I came back and watched part 2 of his video again. Did what he said, loaded the tune, and went driving!

The car is running really well. I am getting a little surging here and there, but thanks to his great tutorial I have an idea of where and how to proceed.

Here's the video:



TTYL,
KoreaJon

KoreaJon

I just watched the clip online, and realized that the dumbass narrating didn't shut up long enough to actually let you hear the engine!

I'll post another clip shortly!


Regards,
KoreaJon

KoreaJon

Here's a link to a video I shot this morning. I hope y'all enjoy it!





Regards,
KoreaJon

KoreaJon

Hello All,

Just a quick update on how the car is...er ...was running....

I've spent quite a bit of time over the past month or so tuning the car. About two weeks ago I got a code that indicated a bad MAF sensor. I removed and cleaned the MAF with poor results. The idle was terrible, the fuel trims were crazy, so I ordered and installed a new sensor.

The new sensor made a huuuuge difference. Very nice, consistent idle, the fuel trims were very consistent. The LTFT was very low, I don't have the numbers in front of me. The long and short of it is that the car is.....was...running very, very well.

Until yesterday.

As it happens, an LS1 is a great engine, but a really shitttty water compressor.

Yep.

I drove through some water that was higher than I should have....I followed my buddy in his C5, drove slowly,....knowing all the time that it was the wrong thing to do. But I allowed the fact that there was a lot of traffic behind me influence to my decision, as I didn't want to block everyone while I turned around and detoured the water.....and hell, my buddy just drove HIS C5 through it, so.....it'll be OK, right?!

Wrong.

I made it ~almost~ to the other side.....then my car stalled.

It's OK, though, because I've done this a thousand times.

I pushed the car to the side of the road, let it sit for a bit, then tried to crank it. F*&^!!cking battery went down very quickly.

My buddy turned around and we hooked up the jumper cables.....

Turned over, started up, rather sluggishly, but hey,....it's wet, right?

It ran for a few seconds, then stopped. Hard. I mean....stopped. And made a really....strange, ominous, expensive sounding noise.

Engine wouldn't turn over using the (crappy) jumper cables. Must be the fault of the crappy jumper cables, right? Off to the house we went to fetch the nice, heavy-duty cable.

Back we went to the Vette, ready to start this thing and get home to the warm house and the hot wife.

Nope.

Car won't turn over.

I'm remembering some ....stories from the Corvetteforum, now.

Can't be. There must just be some water in a cylinder or two, and the engine is hydro-locked,,,,,right?!!

This morning dawned, bright and beautiful. I got another buddy and his flat-bed wrecker to carry the vette home.

Pulled the plugs, turned the engine with a wrench on the balancer bolt.

Hmmmm......turns about 330 degrees, then STOPS. Hard. "Clunk" sound. Turns the other way 330 degrees, the stops. Hard. "Clunk" sound....seems to be coming from the starter area. Maybe, just maybe the starter has broken in some goofy fashion that's causing it to bind.

Started looking around the starter area......

Then saw this:



Then this:




Yes, that's right! Just adjacent to the starter there's a hole in the block...looks to be approximately the size of an apple....or about the size of several thousand dollars.


What a shiiity thing. The car was running soooooo well!


So, here's the thing. Can't sell the car with a blowed to hell, broke-assed engine, so it's gotta be fixed.


I'm not made of money, but I'm not broke, either. I want to maximize the value of the money I spend.

One route would be to find a used block, machine it, replace the crank (I don't yet know the condition of mine, but it's got 112K miles on it, so it would at least need to be checked / turned) the rods, pistons, rings, bearings. THEN I could reinstall the existing heads, cam, intake, etc.

Or...

Find a engine "as removed" from another car, but so far I haven't been able to find an LS1 / 6 for a reasonable price....keeping in mind that I wouldn't use the whole engine, anyway. I have new 243 heads, the LG5X3 cam, and the LS6 intake that would all go to the transplant motor.

Or...

Go this route: http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...rentProductId=


It's an iron block, but it's bigger and forged. The kit also includes many of the items that I would have to purchase whichever way I go, such as head bolts, gaskets, etc.

I don't know, however, if all of the bolt holes are in the correct positions, ie; bellhousing, front accessory drive, cam sensor, etc.
Can someone here offer their advice?

Right now I am almost literally sick to my stomach.....not so much over the expense, just the utter poor judgment that I exercised in making that decision. I mean....I could just kick the holy shiites out of myself....this is such a step backwards.

Anyway, I'd really like to hear your thoughts and suggestions regarding which way I should go with the repairs.


Thanks in advance,
KoreaJon

Jason913

**** happens man. You had a lot of miles on that short block, so it's not the worst thing that couldve happened IMO. Sub 3k for a forged block with all gaskets seems like the way to go. Will make the car a little more valuable, to help offset some of the cost