aramz06

The issue began about 2 days ago. The car randomly would not start and the display read "Low Voltage". Eventually the car started and I took it to Autozone to get a new battery, but they ran the test and said the battery was perfectly fine, but they said it may be an alternator issue. I took the car to my mechanic and he said that everything on the car read fine on the scanner. Does anyone know exactly what this "Low Voltage" sign is indicating? I need this issue fixed asap! Any input is appreciated.

aramz06

Thank you for the response! I will check the codes tomorrow and post them.

The engine would crank but would not turn over. But if I kept trying, it would eventually turn over. A few times it would turn over, but shut down within 2-5 seconds.

dadaroo

Have you ever had the ignition electrical switch replaced? It could explain your issues. We have some diagnostics for that. We'll wait to see what codes you have first.

dadaroo

I knew it was in your plan. I was just interested if he had ever replaced it.

OP, as we both said, we want to see codes so we can do diagnostics and not throw parts at it.

Once we see them we probably will need you to reset/delete them so we can see what is going on now. Probably been a long time since they have been cleared out.

aramz06

Hey guys, thanks again for the responses. I have only owned the car for a year, so I am not sure if the electrical switch has been replaced, but I know I never replaced it since I owned it. I did get some codes though. Let me know if these help you guys come to some conclusion!

60-IPC has 8 codes:

B0516 H
B0521 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
U1040 H
U1160 H
U1088 H
U1176 H

99-HVAC has 1 code:

B0333 H C

AO -IDCM has 4 codes:

B2282 H
B2286 H
B2284 H
U1064 H

A1-RDCM has 4 codes:

B2283 H
B2285 H
B2265 H
U1065 H

Should I reset these codes? Thanks a bunch.

eddiekay

had the same issue last year with my 2000 vert. battery was 10 months old, replaced alternator and ignition switch. still had problem-it ended up being a simple battery cable terminal. it crumbled in my hand. replaced it with 5 minutes of my time and $5. voltage went back to normal, it's been a year and no voltage issues. problem fixed. hope this helps

aramz06

Wow I should try this regardless just to see if it could be the problem. Thanks for the input!



Alright so when I cleared the codes, the HVAC one (B0333 H C) wouldn't go away, everything else did. I drove the car for about 20 minutes and checked again with the engine running as you suggested, and B0333 H C was still the only code there. So what could this mean?

Also, no there are no wet spots on the passenger side floor, and I do not have aftermarket headers. I do have electric cutouts right near the cats though. I doubt those are causing the car not to start though. Please let me know what you think. Thanks a bunch!

aramz06

It did not. The only time Low Voltage was displayed was AFTER the car did not turn over. I am in the process of selling the car, and need to resolve this issue. Could it simply be a strange battery issue? Because when I jump started the car, it turned on just fine... But Autozone says that the battery is fine.

Russell Boulding

Does the "low voltage" message come up as soon as you turn the key on the first time or after the car fails to start several times? (just read your post indicating that the low voltage only appears after the car fails to start)

What year is your car?

Also, parts stores know how to test batteries about as good as I know how to tap dance. Testing the battery of a car that was recently run can and likely will result in the "surface charge" corrupting the test. The result being that a bad battery tests good.

Russell Boulding

I don't think this is an electrical issue I think that more likely this is a fuel issue. This can be verified with a fuel pressure gauge short of a fuel pressure gauge, the next time this happens cycle the key to on and wait 2 seconds, then back off without starting. This will allow the fuel pump to prime the lines if fuel has leaked down back to the tank and the car will start on the next try after the three key cycle prime. The returnless fuel injection system started in 99. These systems have the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel filter and are prone to failure. The symptoms are basically what you describe and can be intermittent. This is all a hunch. But, if it were in my shop we would be checking fuel pressure before starting and checking fuel pressure bleed down and ruling that out or in before moving forward.

teejerdude

aramz06, here's my experience with this issue in case it helps. I purchased my 1998 vette in January (with no warranty) and had a low voltage issue within a couple weeks. With the car running, my dash gauges and my multi-meter were consistently only showing somewhere around 11 volts and the car would not start. I believe I was getting the "low voltage" message (it's been a few months with multiple beers between now and then...). The dealer had installed a "new" battery, but it was refurbished (I didn't know there was such a thing as a refurbished car battery), so first thing I did was replace the battery. All was good for a couple weeks...until the battery drained down. I then replaced the alternator which was a super easy job that only took about 30 minutes thanks to instructions on this forum, and everything has worked perfectly for the past four to five months. Gauges now consistently show over 13 volts and the car starts strong every time. I didn't buy an expensive alternator; I got it from Pep Boys for about $150 w/discounts, and it works great. I wasn't 100% sure the alternator would fix my problem, but it was the logical next step for me. And for only $150, the risk was very low and it paid off big time. I hope this insight helps, and good luck as you work out your low voltage issue.

aramz06

The Low Voltage sign would only come up either after I tried starting the car but it wouldn't turn over, or if it turned over, and then shut down again after about 3 seconds. My car is a 2002 z06. I'm thinking of just replacing the battery just for peace of mind. Thanks for the input.

You know, my mechanic did say that his scanner was giving him the indication that it was a fuel issue too, but said he had a hard time connecting the Low Voltage sign to a fuel issue. I will definitely have him expand on this. Thanks.

My car has always read over 13 volts. That is why I have a hard time believing its the battery. But it may be worth a shot. I didn't know you can replace the alternator with a generic pep boys one. That is interesting. I am going to return the car to my mechanic on Monday and relay everything you all have suggested. Will definitely keep you guys posted. Thanks again!

lionelhutz

I'd try pulling the wires off the solenoid and cleaning the connections. Sand the terminals clean and wire brush the stud and bolt before putting it back together. Cheap and easy to attempt.

Stroker87

I have this happen to my 03z

the fix was a loose wire on the starter, I tightened it up and its been good ever since

aramz06

I relayed both of your experiences to my mechanic. Thanks for the input.

Latest update: The car died on me again as I was leaving work. Had it jump started, and it only got me about two miles down the road before the engine shut off again. A tow truck came by, tested the battery and alternator and told me that they both are in perfect condition. He jump started it one more time and I drove it straight to my mechanic. Decided to just rent a car and leave the car with my mechanic for a few days if that's what it takes. He wants to figure it out just as much as I do without charging me for every hour he spends on trying to work it out. He also believes this is either a fuel pressure issue or an ignition switch. I will get an update from him tomorrow and post it here.

Thanks again everyone!

lionelhutz

That is really sounding like the ignition switch.

aramz06

So the ignition switch was replaced today. So far no issues. I will keep this thread updated if anything changes. Thanks for the input everyone. Very helpful.