Still running hot
08-29-2015, 10:15 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
There is no way that the running temps from either the 160 or the 187 stat would make the car run 40 degrees hotter. The only way that can happen would be if the stat was not opening. You can do what a lot of Hot Rodders do, when I build a high price motor I never used a stat. I would buy one of the disc that takes the place of the stat and just use the disc that had the proper size opening. I thought that I saw that you said that you replaced the rad, if you did I would replace it again. Might be something wrong inside. Do you have all of the panels around the rad installed? Heck, remove your AC condenser. It's only a few bucks to recharge. Next I would do a carbon test. Buy one of the kits that test if you have carbon in your coolant. It did that once and that crap changed colors in a heart beat, had a crack in a cylinder wall.
08-30-2015, 10:00 AM
#22
Racer
Still running hot
There is no way that the running temps from either the 160 or the 187 stat would make the car run 40 degrees hotter. The only way that can happen would be if the stat was not opening. You can do what a lot of Hot Rodders do, when I build a high price motor I never used a stat. I would buy one of the disc that takes the place of the stat and just use the disc that had the proper size opening.
08-30-2015, 10:22 AM
#23
Le Mans Master
I didn't say to take out the stat completely. Stat disc are the same size as the stock stat and they come in different hole sizes so you can match the restriction for your cooling system. The real purpose of the stat is to slow down the flow of water thru the rad so it can remove the heat. Without the stat completely the water travels too fast thru the rad and will not have the proper time to remove the heat. The stat disc lets the water travel at the same speed without the worry of the stat closing and overheating the motor.
08-30-2015, 03:30 PM
#24
This was a very common problem with the LT1. No center air dam = overheating at high speeds.
09-02-2015, 04:53 PM
#25
Fan turn on temp adjustment is NOT going to impact the 220 temp while driving on the highway.
Fans ONLY run at speeds under 35mph. That could help the temps in stop and go traffic by having them on at lower coolant temps but I honestly think you have something else going on if you have all the new parts listed in post #1 and you cannot keep the coolant below 220 at highway speeds. It should be more like 205 - 210 MAX at highway speed.
I would check to make certain that BOTH fans are running. This can be fairly easily be done because at about 185 degrees coolant temp with the AC ON fans should start in low speed mode. High speed operation does not begin until coolant temp reaches 235 degrees (either with AC ON or OFF) but since you car heats in traffic you should also be getting those temps with the engine idling in the driveway.. Insure they BOTH are running at temps above 235.
Is the center air dam still in place on your car???
Fans ONLY run at speeds under 35mph. That could help the temps in stop and go traffic by having them on at lower coolant temps but I honestly think you have something else going on if you have all the new parts listed in post #1 and you cannot keep the coolant below 220 at highway speeds. It should be more like 205 - 210 MAX at highway speed.
I would check to make certain that BOTH fans are running. This can be fairly easily be done because at about 185 degrees coolant temp with the AC ON fans should start in low speed mode. High speed operation does not begin until coolant temp reaches 235 degrees (either with AC ON or OFF) but since you car heats in traffic you should also be getting those temps with the engine idling in the driveway.. Insure they BOTH are running at temps above 235.
Is the center air dam still in place on your car???
The only thing I did was adjust the settings to turn on at 190 and 200 (low and high speed, respectively), after that, I've never seen anything over 200. Usually sits at 199 in stop and go now.
09-10-2015, 11:16 AM
#26
Instructor
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Air dams are in place, both fans are kicking in at high speed. Yesterday I bled it again just to be sure no air got into the system. I took the cap (18psi ) off of the tank and the center of it fell out. It was a new cap. System was overheating and steaming out the sides of the cap. Let it cool down and was getting ready to run to Pep Boys and get a new one when my wife got home so I could use her vehicle. Had been cruising earlier and everything was okay, top off day. Went in the house, got tied up with a few things, then took a quick nap. Not quick enough, it rained. my poor car. I'll be spending the rest of today with a shop vac and dryer. Dumb...dumb...dumb...dumb. Some days I should just stay in bed. 
My wife just looks at me and smirks...No blonde or polish jokes from me for awhile.
My wife just looks at me and smirks...No blonde or polish jokes from me for awhile.
09-16-2015, 09:27 PM
#27
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Was it just a bad cap ?
I was drying out the car and decided to turn the heater on. While it was running I heard a hissing around the coolant cap. I had replaced it when I re-did the rest of the cooling system. I took the cap off and the center section of it fell out, went and bought a new cap, put it on and let the car run for an hour...not overheating. I've driven it for a couple of days and so far so good. It did go up to 230, but,as soon as I started driving it went down to 197. Keeping my fingers crossed.
I was drying out the car and decided to turn the heater on. While it was running I heard a hissing around the coolant cap. I had replaced it when I re-did the rest of the cooling system. I took the cap off and the center section of it fell out, went and bought a new cap, put it on and let the car run for an hour...not overheating. I've driven it for a couple of days and so far so good. It did go up to 230, but,as soon as I started driving it went down to 197. Keeping my fingers crossed.
